Air filter for V6

[paraic]

In looking at my V6 air filter its filthy and a bit ragged. Most likely its responsible for the rough idle I am experiencing (in the other thread about the Euro ECUs). Its quite hard to find a new filter online - is the turbo one the same as the V6? (I've sold my Turbo so I can't check).

So looking at Ebay I came across this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/K-N-Universal-3-5-Air-Intake-Cone-Filter-89mm-RU-3130-Car-Truck-SUV-NEW-/280901329940?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4167062414&vxp=mtr#ht_4634wt_1168

which is a universal K&N filter for 3.5" intake pipe (which I think our pipe is). So in my naiveté I am wondering is there any reason this would not fit directly onto the intake pipe?

Also when I see what is at the bottom of the air filter housing it seems to snake off underneath the car - not sure what's the purpose of that pipe.

More intelligent analysis than mine greatly welcome!

Paraic

P.S I took out the old ragged filter and ran the car for 15 mins without it and it ran much smoother with almost perfect idle.

[paraic]

Responding to my own post I see that back in 2011, Sukhoi did exactly what I am trying to do.

If someone (or Sukhoi himself) has some detail around this, it would be great. It would be good to know if there any gotchas and also what actual filter was used in this mod.

thanks

Paraic

[webmaster]

Another option would be to see if any other cars that use the same Bosch AFM style have an airbox that could be modified to fit. (Volvo? Eagle Premier?)

I'd prefer a proper air box as the engine can then bring in cooler air (that's the snorkel intake you described as under the car) - an open air element tends to suck in under hood air. Since you're after maximum performance - doing a proper cold air intake would have the most benefits.

Rabin

[Ikenna]

Hi Paraic,

What did you finaly do? Did you swap in the K&N filter or another airbox, like Rabin suggested?

I have been trying to find another airbox that will fit in without obstructing the bonnet closing properly, but i havent find one. The filter in mine is foam and I want to change it to paper. Dust penetrates the foam and gets to the throttle body. Oiling the foam will stop it, but since I gathered that oil is a MAF killer, i wont try it. Am thinking of going for K&N filter, if i can find one. But i need to know how good it is on ZN3J.

Ikenna.

[paraic]

Hi Paraic,

What did you finaly do? Did you swap in the K&N filter or another airbox, like Rabin suggested?

I have been trying to find another airbox that will fit in without obstructing the bonnet closing properly, but i havent find one. The filter in mine is foam and I want to change it to paper. Dust penetrates the foam and gets to the throttle body. Oiling the foam will stop it, but since I gathered that oil is a MAF killer, i wont try it. Am thinking of going for K&N filter, if i can find one. But i need to know how good it is on ZN3J.

Ikenna.

Hi Ikenna and Rabin

I have not yet made a move on this but it looks like I do need to go the K&N air filter route. If there was room to snake the K&N down the space where the air box is that would be ideal - it can grab the cooler air from down there.

I will talk to Eurocar Dave about it and see what's feasible. It definitely looks possible.

If not I can still attach it directly to the MAF and yes the air is warmer but its a heck of alot better than the current clogged up filter I have right now. Then maybe later move it down further.

Paraic

[Bean]

Can you fit the K&N inside the box and attached to the opening to the MAF? I've seen many adapters for attaching cone filters to VAF and MAF housings, so if you can do it on the inside of the stock airbox you would have the best of both.

Rabin

[paraic]

Can you fit the K&N inside the box and attached to the opening to the MAF? I've seen many adapters for attaching cone filters to VAF and MAF housings, so if you can do it on the inside of the stock airbox you would have the best of both.

Rabin

Seems like the best option. The air box is big enough for the smaller K&N filters and you can buy a flexible intake hose to feed thru the air box inlet.

http://www.ebay.com/...f95323d&vxp=mtr

I was wrong before, it looks like its a 3" flange, not a 3.5".

I will give this a shot and see how it goes - its a pretty cheap alternative to the standard filter if it works.

Paraic

[paraic]

So I installed the 3" K&N universal filter ($35 + S&H) and it's great!

The engine has a newer raspy roar which is very nice and even cool!

Its directly onto the MAF sensor intake for now until the new extension pipe arrives and I can place the entire filter inside the air box and suck in much cooler air. The filter is warm to the touch so its taking in hot air from the engine bay which is not ideal.

The car feels a little faster but that is purely subjective and could be related to the new engine note. But it sure sounds faster!

So this a great mod for STX owners who can't find a replacement air filter (and a cheap one at that). Total cost of filter and extension pipe will be about $75 inc shipping. And its a simple install without mangling any stock components.

Paraic

[Ikenna]

Congrats!

But this thing about the cool air from airbox. The airbox opening is facing the exhaust manifold of the right bank. So i dont know how cool the air going into the box is, different from the air in the entire engine bay. But i could be wrong.

Ikenna.

[Bean]

Ikenna - it sounds like your air box is missing the snorkel that should fit that hole and go towards the front beside the radiator. A flexible hose of some sort that can be made to seal on the opening and then routed to the cool air in front of the radiator would be ideal.

Rabin

[N9TE]

Would this work?

http://compare.ebay.com/like/290700175741?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

[paraic]

Would this work?

http://compare.ebay....mTypes&var=sbar

Hi Koll

No that is an entirely different filter. The shape of the V6 one has a large corner cut out and has a rubber style lip to secure it to the air box and seal it.

It might be possible to cut it and then try and remove the old rubber and attach it somehow but that sounds like a lot of mess frankly.

The K&N is much simpler and I think, more fun And it should last 50k miles before you need to clean it (according to the documentation).

Paraic

[andrethx]

Would this work?

http://compare.ebay....mTypes&var=sbar

i saw this same unit for sale on german ebay a few months back, same brand, same stock photo, etc.. i contacted the seller to see if it was actually the right piece, and they were polite but it was clear that no one was going to get out of his chair to go into the warehouse to see what this item actually looks like. since i don't have a v6 and tend to take on too much anyway, i left the matter there.

andré

edit: paraic, that's not actually the filter, that's a stock photo that they use for all of the filters they are selling. the stock-style filter -- i've heard it referred to as the "nevada" filter since it's shaped like that state -- might be a necessity for someone who lives in a state that has a repressive smog-testing system (e.g., california)...so it would be good if you v6 owners had multiple options...

[tulaweb]

So is this the same "Nevada" filter used in my Diesels? It's a little harder to find them with the grid and the rubber lip, but I've gotten the foam replacement part from several sources without too much trouble.

examples:

Wix Part # 46199

Beck Arnley 042-1502

[andrethx]

actually, dave, you're right -- the diesel filter is the "nevada" filter, it has rounded corners. like so:

the v6 filter is really more of a "fat nevada" shape (nobody calls it that, i just made that up ) with square corners. like so:

andré

ps -- sorry about calling you a terrorist the other day, dave...

[tulaweb]

ps -- sorry about calling you a terrorist the other day, dave...

Some would say "Freedom Fighter"

[Ikenna]

Paraic,

Did the K & N filter fixed the rough idling issue with the Euro ECU?

Also, have you fixed the k&N extension pipe? Did it enter the airbox and closed properly ? Because i plan to get the k&n filter too through andre.

Ikenna

[andrethx]

for those of you who are not in the facebook group (why not?!?), fernando (sukhoi/eurotrash on this forum) has posted the details of his v6 filter setup, it's not from k&n but is a similar product from a different company:

This is the air filter I use in my 505, it works amazingly well and it requires no modification. It is a universal high-flow air filter, it comes with adaptor rings and an adjusting steel belt. Simply remove your old filter box and attach to mass air flow sensor, you're done.

First time I used it I noticed a slight power increase and a much deeper throaty sound from the engine. HIGHLY recommended. Available at Autozone and just about everywhere else.

Spectre HPR, Universal High-Flow Air Filter

Black: part number 8131

Red: part number 8132

Blue: part number 8136

White: part number 8138

$30.00

http://www.spectrepe...ack-chrome.html

the link is to the black model,

but it comes in different colors.

andré

[paraic]

Paraic,

Did the K & N filter fixed the rough idling issue with the Euro ECU?

Also, have you fixed the k&N extension pipe? Did it enter the airbox and closed properly ? Because i plan to get the k&n filter too through andre.

Ikenna

Hi Ikenna

No I haven't fixed extension pipe to it yet. Turns out Dave in Eurocar needs the airbox to try a different route for another customer. Dave fit the K&N filter like I did for another STX owner and he didn't like the noise it made! So he has to try a different route.

Personally I like the noise - its got a raunchier note once it hits 3k rpm.

Paraic

[andrethx]

i got ikenna the same filter that fernando has (same model number, same color); i got it here in LA at auto zone. cost about US$25 ($27 and change with tax). cost about $20 to send it to nigeria, it's en route now; it usually takes about 2-3 weeks for stuff to go one way between me and him. ikenna and i send stuff to each other from time to time so we credit each other to minimize sending money back and forth.

i'm sure ikenna will post pics of his filter when he gets it & fits it to his car! he says that he can locally source some sort of flexible tube to route the filter to the front part of the engine compartment, but i imagine that he's waiting to get the filter before he gets the tube so that he can get a good fit.

andré

[Ikenna]

Thanks andre.

As soon as the filter arrives, I will install it and update everyone.

Ikenna.

[Ikenna]

I received the cone air filter today, which andre shipped to me about 2 weeks ago. I got home and installed it. The sound was so sweet! I would have taken it for a test drive if not for the low fuel in the tank (fuel scarcity is really dealing with us). But the sound was sweet enough to tell me what to expect when the car goes into motion.

While the engine was idling, i switched on the A/C and suddenly, the rpm dropped and the engine and the entire car started to vibrate. Hmm! So, i switched off the car and gave it a thought "what now?"

I ruled out the spark plugs, since i replaced them last week. Then, the question then was " what would make an engine not carry heavy load by rough idling only when on heavy load?" I decided to start with the CTS.

So I pulled out the CTS wiring connector from the sensor, brought out my DMM, switched on the ignition and work started. I tested the 2 signal wires of the CTS from the two ECUs, to know if the CTS still receives full signals from the two ECUs.

I tested wire 2 (Injection ECU signal wire to CTS) and got 4.76 volts, which is the factory value. So i have eliminated the wire 2.

Then the 2nd CTS wire, wire 25 (Ignition ECU signal wire to CTS) and got 0.2 v, which fell below factory value. The factory value is 5 volts. So i have found the culprit. The next thing then is to trace the cause from the cts connector to the ignition ECU.

I tested the wire 25 on the firewalls connectors and got the same wrong value 0.2v. So, i ruled out the firewall connectors. Then i went to Ignition ECU, pulled out the connector, pushed it back, pulled it out again and pushed it back for the 2nd time. I put back the Ignition ECU and went straight to wire 25 on the CTS wiring connector. I switched on the ignition and tested the wire again. As if i knew, this time, the DMM read 5.13 volts. "Typical Peugeot electrics!", I muttered. Like i noted earlier, 5 volts is the factory value of wire 25 (ignition ECU signal wire to CTS), while 4 volts is the factory value of wire 2 (Injection ECU signal wire to CTS). So both wires now read factory values.

So i connected back the harness to the cts and started the car. It started well as usual, but when i switched the A/C, the engine and entire car refused to vibrate. The car was just smoothly idling with the A/C load. No damn vibration anymore. Phew!

The cause of the vibration when on load was that the ignition timing was thrown off, because the ignition ECU, which controls the engine timing, wasn't getting enough signal from the CTS. But as soon as the proper signal was restored between the two components, the Ignition ECU went back to default and the timing was restored.

Ikenna.

[tulaweb]

"Typical Peugeot electrics!"

Sure is! ;-)

[Ikenna]

I finally installed the cone filter last two days ago, Saturday, 17/11/2012. The sound and acceleration has really changed.

Still observing the fuel consumption, for the claimed improved fuel economy.

Ikenna.

[andrethx]

i see you got an extension tube to move the filter up towards the front of the engine compartment. looks great! also, the new compressor looks really nice -- very clean and shiny.

do you have much use for the a/c this time of year where you are? do you guys basically have one season year-round, or do you have a rainy season during winter (or something like that)?

andré