Bean Posted April 1, 2012 Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Purchased April 2010, pictures of the car just before it went into storage at a friends acreage May 2010: I fired it up for the first time since parking it today, and drove it back home. Plan is to safety (provincial mechanical inspection) the car for use as my summer DD. I figured I'd do it up as a build thread so that I could organize everything it needs, and document the changes as it gets done. The "to do" list is long, so I'll get started. Valve adjustment Injection pump timing EGR delete Coolant flush w/t-stat Engine oil and filter change April 1st, 2012 4HP22 fluid change April 1st, 2012 Diff oil change Wheel alignment Transmission shift / kick down adjustment April 1st, 2012 Turbo boost check April 1st, 2012 Tach not working April 1st, 2012 Speedo not working 505 Turbo vented disk /caliper upgrade Front wheel bearing repack / replace THOROUGH cleaning and detailing. 405 Mi-16 steering wheel Rust repairs to rear quarter panels. Fix rear tailgate lock Fix rear wiper Euro headlights 505 Turbo front air dam Parking brake cables Vacuum reservoir? Coolant hose sorting out / replacement Exhaust system repaired April 4th, 2012 New battery April 3rd, 2012 Have key made for tailgate lock Remove push button starter and fix key starting (required by inspection) Both rear brake wheel cylinders Rear axle seals Rear brake shoes Front wheel bearing kits Oil pan gasket Front door pins (driver side sags) mirrors loose wiper washer non-op heater fan (squeals so I unplugged it) Neutral switch vacuum pump / brake booster - no power assist headlight assemblies broken / poor aim (according to mechanic) lf marker light non-op loose ground for tail lights rusted quarter panels Rear axle seals leaking Rear brake cylinders leaking Power steering non-op Front control arm bushings passenger rear seat belt not retracting right rear door won't open from inside Parts needed: New parking brake cables Parts Network rear axle seal kits rear brake shoes rear wheel brake cylinders Oil pan gasket Parts wanted: XD2S exhaust manifold - pending Top rad hose T-stat I've got an 8 day permit on it now, plan is to clean it up, take care of the easy ones, then get the safety done to get a complete list of concerns that need to be addressed before it passes. I'll post up some pics tomorrow after I get cleaned out of all the tools and stuff in it now. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Spent the afternoon checking the car out and it's both better and worse than expected... Better in that the steering rack boots, tie rods, and ball joints seem nice and tight. There is hardly any chassis rust on the car, and the rust that is there (passenger dog leg, and both rear lower quarter panels) is pretty minor. Worse is the wiring, and the coolant hose routing. I'd love to get a look at an unmolested XD3T to see how everything is supposed to be. I did fine a very well done recirculating heater, but the lower rad hose heater is still in place. I plan on photographing all the problem areas and posting them up here to find out how to fix stuff properly. I've edited the list above to keep track of things done, and adding to the list as I find them. I also added a parts wanted list. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Rabin, the wagon looks to be in good shape other than the items you have listed. Should be a fun build thread for us non-gasser's! Maybe able to help sort things under the hood after you post some photos. There's another member that's posted some photos for help with vacuum lines. I'll shall head there next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Thanks Jeff - I figure I'll do the same as Matt and get pictures up of all the areas of concern, and hopefully get the benefit of some experienced diesel guys looking at it. I was rushed when I last posted - so here's some more details from today's work: When I was trying to adjust the kick down cable I over extended it, which meant the transmission pan had to come off - so I took the opportunity to swap the pan for a non dented one I had, and cleaned off the magnets in the pan too. Reset the throttle cable settings, and the kick down with the pan off in case I over extended the cable again (which I did...). Car was up - so I also changed the engine oil(15W40 and filter (MANN), and basically looked crawled around checking stuff out. I'll dump and refill the pan a few times to get the oil mostly cleaned up and circulated through the transmission. Once the car is pretty much done and proven good I'll flush it completely with AMSOIL ATF, and install a t-stat controlled transmission cooler later. Got it all back together, and took it for a short rip around the block. HOLY COW does a properly set up transmission make a difference! The car actually accelerates with decent authority now, and I can finally hear the turbo spool up. Next steps will be to get a new battery, valve adjustment, and attempt injection pump timing. Then I'll need to sort out wiring and coolant hose routing later when I do the t-stat and coolant flush. I'll be making appointments tomorrow to get the car the initial inspection done which gives me an itemized list of all the issues I need to fix before it passes, as well as a trip to the exhaust shop to have the exhaust system fixed up. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Coming along nicely so far Rabin. I can already see you and the family cruising the Canadian outback in style and comfort this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Not a lot to update, and unfortunately they shop didn't get the car done today so no pictures. I did measure up and fit a H8 battery into the tray. Every place I contacted kept saying it took a group 91 battery - but that's what the gas cars use. I measured up the space and went to Walmart for a cheap new battery. They had some H8's that seemed to fit the bill for the biggest battery I could fit in the space, and it worked out perfect. Fits in between two steel pins on the tray I didn't even see - so any bigger and it wouldn't have fit. There was quite a big patch of missing paint and light surface rust in and around the battery tray, so I doused the area with rust inhibitor while I look for options to fix the damage and to make the engine bay nicer. Leaning towards Por-15 for everything under hood so far - but not totally sold on having it black in there. Body colour would be nice - but good luck getting a close match... Should definitely have pics up tomorrow though - as well as a MUCH longer "to do" list. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 4, 2012 Updated the list in the first post... It's a long list - but it's doable with all the parts I have, and it looks like everything I do need is in stock at Parts Network. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Got some pics today: This shows the fancy "park light" that was fitted but still doesn't work - I'll put in the proper light and wiring. The front "spoiler" is bent up in the middle, and in front of the passenger tire. I'll be straightening it all out, then covering it with a 505 turbo spoiler. Passenger side dog leg rust. Looks like a fair bit of bondo in the arch above the rust - so the grinder will reveal all. Contacted someone to see how much just the metal work would cost to get done. Passenger side quarter panel rust. Not bad - but I'll have to rebuild a bit of the vertical piece in behind as well. Pretty much the same rust on the driver side. That's it for rust on this car - not too bad at all considering age and being a Canadian car. Fancy brown interior with blue leather front seats. No idea how to fix this at the moment. Keep brown interior and recolour / replace front seats will be the easiest. I'd like to work some lighter tan into there to break up the mono brown look. Passenger side engine shot. No AC compressor or lines. Will need to delete the entire EGR system - so any tips on components that can go is appreciated. New H8 battery in place, fuel filter assembly with no primer pump, and the shoddy top rad hose in view. Throttle and kick down cable settings. Pretty sure that's supposed to be the harness to the transmission - which would explain the neutral switch not working. The green wire is taking power off the alternator direct to the plug. Awesome. Sadly the cut wires don't match gauge - so any help on how that harness is supposed to look is appreciated. Two fittings go into the bottom rad hose - the top one goes to the coolant reservoir, the one that's in the household copper fitting goes to a recirculating heater under the battery, then to a plate on the back of the head with another household copper 90 degree fitting. No idea how it's supposed to be. Glow plug wires that appear to go direct to the push button switch - need to check out if they're using the relay - if if that's bypassed too. I hear clicking so I assume it's good and the relay is just being manually triggered. Fuel filter set up with no primer. Monster H8 battery, with the fused power block I did up when I repaired the wiring harness. Need to find a better sealed set up - but it will do for now. These are EGR related correct? That's it so far. Parts have been ordered. Rear diff is getting new axle seals and bearings, brakes, and new park brake cables. Front bearings will be repacked/replaced, bushings changed where needed, and steering rack fixed replaced if it's pinion is leaking. Biggest obstacles is rust repair and the rear diff as both are pretty big jobs. (Diff bearings and seals I've done - rust repairs I haven't) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Looking good, it seems like we are in similar boats for some of this stuff. For as far north as you are (supposedly I have a lot of family up in SK, I have just never met them) that is not a bad amount of rust at all. For a sealed fuse block you might check a marine supply place. Where are you getting your bushings? I haven't lifted the car to check yet but I am getting a bad vibration at 50 and didn't find many suppliers for bushings or motor mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 i really like this new rabin, who posts a metric assload of pictures. hope this continues! a few questions: 1) you changed the wheels...where did the other ones go? where did this latest set come from? 2) how did you fix the tach? 3) what is the color of your car? is it the 1574 white? that is a huge battery, i saw jeff's car on tuesday (beautiful, btw) and it too had a huge battery. jeff said that diesels need all that power to start up properly... you might consider recovering those seats in a beige tweed...if this is going to be your un-airconditioned summer car, a light color tweed would breathe well and stay cooler. i'm thinking about going with a blue tweed for my seats for the same reason. plus, tweed was an option on the euro cars so trying to match or get close to that will be a fun project and tweed would break up the monochromatic interior, as well. just a suggestion. matt, i'm changing out a lot of my bushings, mounts, etc. as well; my car has a lot of miles and is pretty tired, so i'm hoping to get within radiotelescope range of the original ride. rob at javel (in the vendor section of this forum) is my primary source for this type of stuff, plus i've been getting bits here and there. PM me any time and let me know what you are looking for, and i'll tell you where i got it. andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 A couple of things I notice when comparing to my 1985 TD. That looks like the older style vacuum pump. The newer one, originally in mine, and I would presume in yours, was sealed and didn't require/allow lubrication. It was also not rebuildable. The older style that you have, and I now do too can be rebuilt, and requires lubrication. Your fuel filter not only doesn't have the primer, it doesn't have the coolant circulating through it, which I assume is intended to warm the fuel in the winter. Those vacuum switches are EGR related. If your glow plug relay is there, it looks different and is located differently than mine. I don't see it in your pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Rabin, when you get this car done I'm going to hire you to tow my 505 race car around to events! That will define cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 i really like this new rabin, who posts a metric assload of pictures. hope this continues! I purposely haven't started a build thread until I knew I could do it properly. I need to get a car sorted so I have something to step into when the F150 sells - and the TD seemed like the quickest car to get sorted. Biggest reason though was the car has sat since 2010 and I needed to get on it ASAP or risk it sitting longer. a few questions: 1) you changed the wheels...where did the other ones go? where did this latest set come from? 2) how did you fix the tach? 3) what is the color of your car? is it the 1574 white? 1) Wheels are off of my 504 - they have sedate touring tires on them so I thought they'd be better suited to this car. The 504 will get the Exalto's that I installed on the 89' as it'll be getting BMW wheels this summer. 89' is still wearing winter studded tires but is parked. 2) found a sensor on the flywheel with dodgy wiring. Wiggled it - and the tach started working. I'm taking it all apart and cleaning it, and fixing the wires so that they're much more solid and protected from the elements. 3) No idea on the colour yet - but it's a light tan colour and not white. that is a huge battery, i saw jeff's car on tuesday (beautiful, btw) and it too had a huge battery. jeff said that diesels need all that power to start up properly... I think Jeff's is a group 91 - pretty sure mine is larger still. you might consider recovering those seats in a beige tweed...if this is going to be your un-airconditioned summer car, a light color tweed would breathe well and stay cooler. i'm thinking about going with a blue tweed for my seats for the same reason. plus, tweed was an option on the euro cars so trying to match or get close to that will be a fun project and tweed would break up the monochromatic interior, as well. just a suggestion. Good idea - and worthy of consideration. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Rabin, when you get this car done I'm going to hire you to tow my 505 race car around to events! That will define cool! Bryan - this car as a tow rig is one of the reasons I had to have it. If I can get this sucker dialed in mechanically, it'll have plenty of poop to tow a lightweight open trailer with race car AND all the spares. I'd bet $$$ it'll do it cheap as well while doing it too. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 8, 2012 Report Share Posted April 8, 2012 Great to hear Jerro. Now I'd like to ask you a favour. Would you be so kind as to take a bunch of detailed pictures of your engine bay? I'm in the process of setting my 86' 505 TD wagon straight and I'd love to see how your engine bay compares to mine. I'm particularly interested in seeing this transmission harness connector properly connected with hopefully the wires exposed so I can see what yours is like: Heck - if you check out my build thread, if you could take the same pictures that would be most appreciated. I'd like to see how your coolant lines are routed, the coolant line connection on the back of the head, the coolant connections on the lower rad hose etc etc. Thanks! Rabin Rabin I know my car isn't quite as close to yours as Jerro's but here are some similar views of mine which is a 1985 5sp Sedan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Awesome - thanks so much for that! Does your car happen to have a neutral lock out switch? That connector looks pretty close from what I can see except being red instead of yellow. If so that might come in handy after all. The engine pics blew my mind however. Not having the coolant circuit to the fuel filter assembly, and the routing of hoses from the connector on the lower rad hose are all different. Would you be able to take a picture of the back of the head so that I can see where the hoses terminate? I think I got the hose traced in red, but the green (off fuel filter), yellow and orange hoses I'm not sure where they go: And I do not have the glow plug relay - I'll do some checking, but I'm guessing they momentary switch in the car is switching the full amperage to the plugs which is a bit scary. Man - this kind of interaction for figuring stuff out is invaluable! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Awesome - thanks so much for that! Does your car happen to have a neutral lock out switch? That connector looks pretty close from what I can see except being red instead of yellow. If so that might come in handy after all. The engine pics blew my mind however. Not having the coolant circuit to the fuel filter assembly, and the routing of hoses from the connector on the lower rad hose are all different. Would you be able to take a picture of the back of the head so that I can see where the hoses terminate? And I do not have the glow plug relay - I'll do some checking, but I'm guessing they momentary switch in the car is switching the full amperage to the plugs which is a bit scary. Man - this kind of interaction for figuring stuff out is invaluable! Rabin No I don't have a neutral lock out switch. I would assume manual transmissions never did, but you know what happens when you assume. I'll try to take some pictures to clarify the hose routing. I have an aftermarket radiator, which was installed by a local radiator shop about 8 - 10 years ago so I'm not positive if the routing at the lower radiator hose is the same as the original, but hopefully it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 And I do not have the glow plug relay - I'll do some checking, but I'm guessing they momentary switch in the car is switching the full amperage to the plugs which is a bit scary. Rabin I've often thought of installing a switch to manually control the glow plugs. My relay usually works but sometimes it just doesn't, and sometimes, when it's cold, I'd like to keep the glow plugs on a little longer. I have a little short home made jumper cable that I keep handy to activate the glow plugs when the relay fails. Most of the time I don't need it, but it does come in handy from time to time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 9, 2012 Report Share Posted April 9, 2012 Here are some shots color coded to match yours. I think orange goes down to the heater core but I couldn't get a picture of it between where you see it and where it passes through the firewall. Green goes to a pipe going into the back of the block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2012 Thanks very much for confirming those lines... What a mess of a configuration. I'd like to sketch it out and determine the flow circuits, then see if there would be a good way to consolidate or combine some of the routing so it wasn't so convoluted. That'll be for the future however - right now I have enough info to re-install the proper fuel filer assembly. Thanks very much indeed for those pictures! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm astounded at the various hoses and their routing. Its like the hose routing guy was drunk that day and the line boss said, "good nuff" and out the door they went. Talk about "Department of Overcomplication" ! There must be a more efficient way of routing the hoses and simplifying things. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 Tin worm was a little worse than first anticipated: I hate stupid repairs. Previous repairs consisted of shooting expanding foam into it, a crappy brazing attempt, and bondo... LOTS of bondo. This was the part I wasn't expecting... Behind the passenger side rear wheel. I was initially looking at having the rust work done, but it's needing more work than I anticipated. Rather than shell out $$$ for someone else to do it, I'm hoping to justify a welder to do it myself. In the mean time: I had a good friend (restoring a 67' Sunbeam Tiger)that has offered me the use of his metal brake, English wheel, planishing hammer, and another offered his welder, and plasma cutter - so I'll be making the rear quarter panels myself. Jim took a look at the car, and figures we can remake the rear quarter panels replacements in one day, but the dog leg would be more easily done with a cut out from another car. Contacted Ukit to see what he'd charge to supply a chunk from a rust free Cali car. I've got a parts car with a little bit of rust in the dog leg - so if it's too much $$$ I'll cut it out and repair it instead. A bit disappointed that the car won't get done ASAP like first planned - but happy that it'll be done right, and be virtually rust free after the repairs. The rest of the car is very solid... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm astounded at the various hoses and their routing. Its like the hose routing guy was drunk that day and the line boss said, "good nuff" and out the door they went. Talk about "Department of Overcomplication" ! There must be a more efficient way of routing the hoses and simplifying things. This is going to be messy - but here's my current coolant line layout with arrows indicating what i think the flow path of the coolant is: Red: back of head > 120V recirc heater under battery > lower rad hose Yellow: Bottom of coolant tank > bottom rad hose Orange: Heater core to water pump housing Green: out the back of the head exhaust side > heater flow valve > heater core Dk Blue: head port above the oil filter > cold start thingy Lt Blue: Cold start thingy > port in the block Do the flow paths look OK? Now have to figure out how to clean some of that up, and include the proper heated fuel filter assembly. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 I'm astounded at the various hoses and their routing. Its like the hose routing guy was drunk that day and the line boss said, "good nuff" and out the door they went. Talk about "Department of Overcomplication" ! There must be a more efficient way of routing the hoses and simplifying things. Well with all that ignition stuff that isn't on the diesel they figured they could put something else in the space. Mine's got a bit more spaghetti than Rabin's because I have the AC hoses and the fuel heater hoses that were removed from his, at some point. After my run in with the leaky heater hose a couple of weeks ago I just got a spool of 19mm hose and since I won't have the molded corners that the original had, some universal coils to keep it from collapsing in the curves. I'll probably keep most of the original routing, just because it's original, but if I see a much better alternative, I'll think about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted April 11, 2012 Report Share Posted April 11, 2012 This is going to be messy - but here's my current coolant line layout with arrows indicating what i think the flow path of the coolant is: Do the flow paths look OK? Now have to figure out how to clean some of that up, and include the proper heated fuel filter assembly. Rabin I'm not quite sure what routing you were intending for the green one (that's the one that bit me a couple of weeks ago). On mine that goes right around the intake manifold, down behind the block, and through the firewall. It looks like you've got it running over to the other side and back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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