Matt

Sadly I have to sell my 505, so shortly after only owning it since February. The engine in my truck is starting to eat itself and it is my daily so I have to prioritize and fix it (and upgrade to a V8 ). That means I need my garage that the Peugeot is currently occupying, and some extra money to finish the engine swap would be nice too. The car is not running right now because I have the radiator and intake manifold removed (was going to add an intercooler and the radiator has a pinhole leak). I have pictures of everything in the thread here (505) The interior is not pictured but is faded blue with some tears on some of the seams. Also the rear of the headliner needs new clips and the sail panels need replacing. Externally the car is in great shape. One of the headlight covers is loose and one foglight lens is missing but all the body panels are straight and dent-free and there are only two small spots of surface rust on the trunklid where the paint had been peeled off and the metal exposed. The engine was running when I parked it to pull the radiator but there was still a diesel leak from somewhere around the injection pump. Undercar, the front brakes make noise and one of the front sway bar bushings has disintegrated. There was also a vibration at 50MPH but I didn't have a chance to look into that. I had custom oil lines made from the filter adapter to the oil cooler to work with an aftermarket radiator, and they are included as well. The car has a clean title showing 226706 miles, but the previous owner replaced the cluster so the cluster only shows 1xx,xxx miles. I listed it on Craigslist for $600 since it will need to be towed, but I am negotiable, I really need my garage space (one car garage, need somewhere to rebuild the new truck engine before I install it). I would prefer an enthusiast have it, rather than someone who will just wreck/junk it. All the parts I removed (including bolts) are in the trunk along with some extra ones the car came with (upper radiator hose, thermostat, etc). Here's a link to my Craigslist ad, the car is located in Rio Rancho, 5 minutes from Albuquerque, New Mexico.

So the c-pillar covers on my 82 (I have seen them referenced as the sail panels or covers) are badly deteriorated from long exposure to the sun. They are to the point that they fell apart and no longer help support the headliner, so it sometimes falls down in the back. I have found someone parting an 86 that has good condition ones. He let me know that Peugeot changed the interiors in the 86 on 505s. Does anyone know if I can still use his sail covers? Or do I need to find a pre-86 one to grab parts from? Also my left black vent on the outside of the c-pillar is broken and he has this as well, would his 86 one fit on my 82?

That is looking great! Did you ever get RX7 calipers fitted to your 505? My other car is an RX7 and I have a few extra calipers laying around. If they are the right kind and you still need them I can send them to you if you can just cover shipping.

Good to know about being able to just plug the lines at the rack. I have my pump off right now (taking the EGR off is a lot more involved than you'd think!) and it opens a lot of space down there not having a pump in the way. I'm going to see if I can snake some intercooler pipe around the pump first, but if not looks like it will be plugging time.

Bryan, how did you convert your rack to manual? When I converted the rack on my RX7 I took it apart and had to weld up a part of it that otherwise caused a few degrees of slop in a converted rack. Is the 505 rack similar? I have seen many people simply loop the lines but that really seems like a job half done. In addition to welding the little quill there were a few seals in my rack that came out to make a noticeable difference in feel. Sorry for the thread hijack Vjeko, I have not yet disassembled any 505 racks.

Looking good, it seems like we are in similar boats for some of this stuff. For as far north as you are (supposedly I have a lot of family up in SK, I have just never met them) that is not a bad amount of rust at all. For a sealed fuse block you might check a marine supply place. Where are you getting your bushings? I haven't lifted the car to check yet but I am getting a bad vibration at 50 and didn't find many suppliers for bushings or motor mounts.

I have been searching aluminum radiators and came across the perfect one today; I will order it on Friday and wait in anticipation. I had actually contacted a company about custom making one to the correct size, and they said they could do it, but they wanted pictures of it. So I pulled it out today to take some pictures and decided to measure again just in case. It turns out including the lower mounting brackets to be 19" tall which opens up a ton of choices in the universal market. This will let me save some (probably a lot) of money compared to getting a custom one made. Like I mentioned before the stock radiator is 29" wide; I measured the width of the opening in the car to see how wide I could go and it was ~29.5". The radiator I am going with is actually skinnier but taller and thicker than stock. I am going with a 26"X19"X2.25" with 3" end tanks from Northern. This will give me ~3.5" to route the intercooler piping around the side along with the tranny cooler lines, while still greatly improving cooling and sitting flush with the top panel. I also found out at least one reason the A/C doesn't work...one of the hardlines was snapped completely off the side of the condenser. So I went ahead and pulled it out as well. I never use A/C anyway, none of my cars have it, so instead of fixing it I plan on yanking the compressor as well and gaining some more lower engine access. Once the radiator arrives I guess I'll start move over to a build thread for the car, since this has sort of veered that direction anyway.

Awesome, thanks Jeff!

So I did some measuring this evening and the stock radiator is 29"X16.5"X1.5" overall. I did some googling and the closest non-Peugeot OEM replacement I could find was for a 1999-2004 VW Passat with a 1.8 turbo engine. However, it is a couple inches smaller lengthwise and quite a bit thinner depthwise. So I turned to the aftermarket to see what was out there. I had been hoping to find another OEM so I would not have to add a transmission cooler. The majority of double-pass radiators have the hoses on the passenger side instead of the driver like I need. I was able to find some driver-side ones but they are all 19" tall. So I went back outside to do some more measuring. Currently my electric fan is taller than my radiator and comes to 19" above the lower radiator support. The hood still closes just fine over it. I was concerned about having a 19" radiator since it sits further forward than the fan (obviously) and the hood creases down at one point. It looks like it should fit just fine though, the crease is actually in front of the radiator so it won't interfere. I will just have to make my own mounting brackets for it. So I think I will go that route instead of hoping a repair on my stock one holds. I will just have to get a trans cooler and mount it up there as well.

I pulled apart the front of the car this weekend to check on a few loose parts. I am now looking to buy a headlight spring (mine is stretched out and making my headlight wobble), and the driver side headlight cover (silver if possible so it matches). Two of the three clips on mine are broken. By cover I mean the part with the two holes in it for the glass headlight lenses.

Thanks for the welcomes. I got sniped on my factory manual on ebay, so I'm just waiting for the Haynes to get here in the meantime. I did manage to fix a few things; the diesel leak was just two of the injector lines coming off the pump that were slightly loose. My power steering was chirping at parking lot speeds, but I tightened up the belt and fixed that. I found where my other leak was, this one is not going to be free unfortunately. My radiator is leaking at the seam between the core and the end tank. It could probably be repaired and rodded at a radiator shop, but then I got to thinking. I plan on adding an intercooler and turning up the boost on the XD2S. I have seen a couple people on here do this, but did not see them mention upgrading their radiator. Is the stock one sufficient with an intercooler in front of it? I was thinking since it is leaking anyway I could put a thicker one in to be on the safe side (would have to put a tranny cooler as well). Opinions?

Just put both of them on one side, then put two other matching wheels on the other side. You are the only one who will know!

That proto-board is a great idea. I can't do it, but I too have an EE buddy that enjoys stuff like that. I don't really plan on keeping the EGR, but having a tach would be a great addition. Did you swap the entire cluster or add the tach to the dash somehow? My cluster may be having issues anyway; occasionally (only happened once since I bought it) the speedometer goes crazy and makes a ton of noise, like plastic gears not meshing properly. The PO told me of this before I bought it and thought it was just a loose speedometer cable. I haven't bothered to check it yet since it only rarely does it, but is this a common issue? Also, I took some pictures of the engine bay, concerning the vacuum lines and also what seems to be a fuel leak. Here is an overview of the bay, you can probably spot a few things that are disconnected. This small hose is disconnected from both sides and just hanging out ziptied to another (disconnected) vacuum line. This longer line comes off a T on the front of the engine, through what appears to be a check valve, then through the filter-like thing before ending in an unplugged line. Concerning the leak, I have only seen a puddle under it when I park facing downhill, but the area under the oil filter is always moist (the filter is seeping a little but not making puddles). It looks to me like it is coming from where the injector lines go into the pump. Are there some sort of o-ring or crush washer in there? It seems to be coming from the two nearest the block. Finally one last picture of something that has been puzzling me. When I looked at the car before my test drive I asked the PO what the deal with the Heet bottle was. He told me it was his coolant overflow bottle. However, there is an actual expansion tank which appears to be OEM, and I verified the cap is holding pressure. What is the point of an overflow bottle for an expansion tank? Is that supposed to just be the vent line in case it is overfilled? Sorry for the million questions, but I'm trying to return most of the stuff (not EGR) to stock and my manual hasn't arrived yet.

That is a great-looking 505 I must say (almost identical to mine, good taste!) I have seen a lot of people on here with broken sunroofs. Mine is broken as well; is there some way to lock it in place? I never use sunroofs in my cars that have them, but it feels like it could be pushed down how it is sitting now, and doesn't seem watertight at all.

I love wrenching on cars, but this is my first diesel so I get to do some learning. Removing the EGR would clean up the engine nicely. I hear good things about LubeGard Red so I might give that a shot, then change the fluid/filter/gaskets in a week or two.

So I have had a revolving spot in my garage for a few years, and I think I may have finally found a keeper. I started out about 5 years ago with a first gen Isuzu Impulse Turbo with a knocking engine. Engine swap plans fell through since I was finishing up school and had no free time, so I traded it for a VW Rabbit with a Scirocco engine swapped in. This car was fun but they PO had done a horrible job swapping the engine and I was constantly tracking down and fixing wiring issues. When the second gear synchro went out I decided not to deal with it anymore and traded it for a Volvo 850 wagon. I have always liked wagons and hatchbacks, but that one was not the turbo model and it was an automatic, so I sold it to a friend. Then lo and behold I see a 1982 505 turbodiesel for sale on craigslist. It has some problems, paint is faded, sunroof doesn't work, the fan failed so he put an electric fan on and ran a switch into the cabin to manually control it, and it is an automatic. I go check it out and it is just sitting in the back corner of someone's driveway. He grabs the keys and it starts right up. I go test drive it and it drives okay, needs some maintenance but the suspension and motor work fine. I'm going to look into the transmission, when it is cold it sometimes can't make up its mind whether to shift or not, and jerks back and forth a couple times before deciding. Body is great, there are two small spots of surface rust, one on the trunklid, the other on the rear driver side door. There is no body damage but the rear seat interior is pretty beat up from sitting in the sun. Anyways I took a couple pictures in a parking lot today to share to spice up this post a little, so here they are. My plan for this weekend is to clean up the vacuum lines for the EGR system, they are all completely disconnected. Does anyone happen to have a diagram floating around for the XD2S? Also, I have seen on here everyone recommends the factory service manual over the Haynes. I cannot seem to find a factory manual for sale anywhere; will the Haynes suffice in the meantime or is it really that bad? I tried looking up some information on Alldata at work but it has the gas information jumbled in with it so it does not help much at all.