Matt Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 So I have had a revolving spot in my garage for a few years, and I think I may have finally found a keeper. I started out about 5 years ago with a first gen Isuzu Impulse Turbo with a knocking engine. Engine swap plans fell through since I was finishing up school and had no free time, so I traded it for a VW Rabbit with a Scirocco engine swapped in. This car was fun but they PO had done a horrible job swapping the engine and I was constantly tracking down and fixing wiring issues. When the second gear synchro went out I decided not to deal with it anymore and traded it for a Volvo 850 wagon. I have always liked wagons and hatchbacks, but that one was not the turbo model and it was an automatic, so I sold it to a friend. Then lo and behold I see a 1982 505 turbodiesel for sale on craigslist. It has some problems, paint is faded, sunroof doesn't work, the fan failed so he put an electric fan on and ran a switch into the cabin to manually control it, and it is an automatic. I go check it out and it is just sitting in the back corner of someone's driveway. He grabs the keys and it starts right up. I go test drive it and it drives okay, needs some maintenance but the suspension and motor work fine. I'm going to look into the transmission, when it is cold it sometimes can't make up its mind whether to shift or not, and jerks back and forth a couple times before deciding. Body is great, there are two small spots of surface rust, one on the trunklid, the other on the rear driver side door. There is no body damage but the rear seat interior is pretty beat up from sitting in the sun. Anyways I took a couple pictures in a parking lot today to share to spice up this post a little, so here they are. My plan for this weekend is to clean up the vacuum lines for the EGR system, they are all completely disconnected. Does anyone happen to have a diagram floating around for the XD2S? Also, I have seen on here everyone recommends the factory service manual over the Haynes. I cannot seem to find a factory manual for sale anywhere; will the Haynes suffice in the meantime or is it really that bad? I tried looking up some information on Alldata at work but it has the gas information jumbled in with it so it does not help much at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 Hi Matt, Welcome to the forum! Car looks pretty good as a start... If you like wrenching and fettling with cars there's a lot that you can do. Suggestion for the tranny would be to flush the fluid and try an additive to try and clean up the shift solenoids. Or maybe do an additive now, run it for a while - then do the fluid change and another conditioner. EGR - it's rare for these to work, so you might want to do an EGR delete and put plates over the openings. I was advised to do the same to my diesel (86) but I'll only be going through tuning it up and stage 1 this spring / summer. I'm going to set the valves, time the injection pump by ear, test / replace glow plugs, and get the injectors cleaned. That should get me to a good stage 0 and I'll make plans for modifications after than. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted March 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 I love wrenching on cars, but this is my first diesel so I get to do some learning. Removing the EGR would clean up the engine nicely. I hear good things about LubeGard Red so I might give that a shot, then change the fluid/filter/gaskets in a week or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted March 3, 2012 Report Share Posted March 3, 2012 Welcome Matt, I have the diagram XD2S. As Rabin mentioned the EGR stuff is worthless to make work when most of the time it doesn't. The only thing for you to plug is the vacuum line source that supplies vacuum to the regulator atop of the injector pump. The EGR regulation originally worked to control the turbo waste gate during engine warmup. My current TD has this stuff functioning and I've had many that don't. I prefer without! You have a good starting point with your 505, there isn't much to the diesel versions except simple maintenance. The number one issue with these is cooling, so keep this in mind that its doing the job or a warped head will cost you dearly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted March 4, 2012 Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 Here's one of my old one's that looks a lot like yours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted March 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 4, 2012 That is a great-looking 505 I must say (almost identical to mine, good taste!) I have seen a lot of people on here with broken sunroofs. Mine is broken as well; is there some way to lock it in place? I never use sunroofs in my cars that have them, but it feels like it could be pushed down how it is sitting now, and doesn't seem watertight at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted March 5, 2012 Report Share Posted March 5, 2012 To add to what everyone said, I had an '82 505 turbodiesel with the XD2S engine. Because I am kind of a weirdo I insisted on having my EGR system function as it should. Turns out though that the flywheel lost some of its magnetic flux over the years and the inductive sensor mounted on the bellhousing just didn't generate enough of a "blip" for the EGR control box to pick up reliably. This seemed to be a common failure because as a Peugeot tech, I don't remember ever encountering an XD2S with a functional EGR system; It seems over time they just quit working probably due to the same flywheel magnet issue. Anyway a good friend of mine is an EE genius, so he designed and built a new EGR controller which could use the weak signal from the inductive RPM sensor. I provided the specs for EGR operation from the shop manual: The EGR solenoid should be energized when the coolant temp thermoswitch closes, and when the RPM is between 1300 and 3300 RPM (automatic) or 1500 and 3300 (manual). In addition to controlling the EGR valve, he provided a way for it to drive a tachometer from an '84-'85 instrument cluster. Also he provided a circuit to control the A/C compressor; When the engine RPM rose above 1300, the A/C would de-clutch for 3 seconds. This provided a little extra oomph off the line. Also, it would de-clutch the A/C for 7 seconds when the engine speed rose above 3300 RPM, providing some extra power if I had to merge or something. If anyone is interested in this and can build stuff on proto-boards, I can get him to post up the schematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted March 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 That proto-board is a great idea. I can't do it, but I too have an EE buddy that enjoys stuff like that. I don't really plan on keeping the EGR, but having a tach would be a great addition. Did you swap the entire cluster or add the tach to the dash somehow? My cluster may be having issues anyway; occasionally (only happened once since I bought it) the speedometer goes crazy and makes a ton of noise, like plastic gears not meshing properly. The PO told me of this before I bought it and thought it was just a loose speedometer cable. I haven't bothered to check it yet since it only rarely does it, but is this a common issue? Also, I took some pictures of the engine bay, concerning the vacuum lines and also what seems to be a fuel leak. Here is an overview of the bay, you can probably spot a few things that are disconnected. This small hose is disconnected from both sides and just hanging out ziptied to another (disconnected) vacuum line. This longer line comes off a T on the front of the engine, through what appears to be a check valve, then through the filter-like thing before ending in an unplugged line. Concerning the leak, I have only seen a puddle under it when I park facing downhill, but the area under the oil filter is always moist (the filter is seeping a little but not making puddles). It looks to me like it is coming from where the injector lines go into the pump. Are there some sort of o-ring or crush washer in there? It seems to be coming from the two nearest the block. Finally one last picture of something that has been puzzling me. When I looked at the car before my test drive I asked the PO what the deal with the Heet bottle was. He told me it was his coolant overflow bottle. However, there is an actual expansion tank which appears to be OEM, and I verified the cap is holding pressure. What is the point of an overflow bottle for an expansion tank? Is that supposed to just be the vent line in case it is overfilled? Sorry for the million questions, but I'm trying to return most of the stuff (not EGR) to stock and my manual hasn't arrived yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Congrats on the car Matt. I'm no nothing of diesel's so I'll let the others help. Great bunch of people here, always willing to help, lots of knowledge and encouragement. Welcome! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 1, 2012 Thanks for the welcomes. I got sniped on my factory manual on ebay, so I'm just waiting for the Haynes to get here in the meantime. I did manage to fix a few things; the diesel leak was just two of the injector lines coming off the pump that were slightly loose. My power steering was chirping at parking lot speeds, but I tightened up the belt and fixed that. I found where my other leak was, this one is not going to be free unfortunately. My radiator is leaking at the seam between the core and the end tank. It could probably be repaired and rodded at a radiator shop, but then I got to thinking. I plan on adding an intercooler and turning up the boost on the XD2S. I have seen a couple people on here do this, but did not see them mention upgrading their radiator. Is the stock one sufficient with an intercooler in front of it? I was thinking since it is leaking anyway I could put a thicker one in to be on the safe side (would have to put a tranny cooler as well). Opinions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 So I did some measuring this evening and the stock radiator is 29"X16.5"X1.5" overall. I did some googling and the closest non-Peugeot OEM replacement I could find was for a 1999-2004 VW Passat with a 1.8 turbo engine. However, it is a couple inches smaller lengthwise and quite a bit thinner depthwise. So I turned to the aftermarket to see what was out there. I had been hoping to find another OEM so I would not have to add a transmission cooler. The majority of double-pass radiators have the hoses on the passenger side instead of the driver like I need. I was able to find some driver-side ones but they are all 19" tall. So I went back outside to do some more measuring. Currently my electric fan is taller than my radiator and comes to 19" above the lower radiator support. The hood still closes just fine over it. I was concerned about having a 19" radiator since it sits further forward than the fan (obviously) and the hood creases down at one point. It looks like it should fit just fine though, the crease is actually in front of the radiator so it won't interfere. I will just have to make my own mounting brackets for it. So I think I will go that route instead of hoping a repair on my stock one holds. I will just have to get a trans cooler and mount it up there as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Matt, I'll post some photos of my engine bay so you can get your vacuum lines in order A fellow member Andre' is up for a visit, he'll remind me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted April 2, 2012 Report Share Posted April 2, 2012 Matt, Look at aluminum radiators from various companies and you'll find one with the outlets in the right place and very close to the correct size. You'll gain a huge amount of cooling capacity AND they are relatively reasonably priced. The internet and even ebay are your friends on this project. For my 505 Turbo project I found a BMW E30 aluminum rad that could be adapted for example (ended up buying a complete car, long story). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Posted April 5, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 I have been searching aluminum radiators and came across the perfect one today; I will order it on Friday and wait in anticipation. I had actually contacted a company about custom making one to the correct size, and they said they could do it, but they wanted pictures of it. So I pulled it out today to take some pictures and decided to measure again just in case. It turns out including the lower mounting brackets to be 19" tall which opens up a ton of choices in the universal market. This will let me save some (probably a lot) of money compared to getting a custom one made. Like I mentioned before the stock radiator is 29" wide; I measured the width of the opening in the car to see how wide I could go and it was ~29.5". The radiator I am going with is actually skinnier but taller and thicker than stock. I am going with a 26"X19"X2.25" with 3" end tanks from Northern. This will give me ~3.5" to route the intercooler piping around the side along with the tranny cooler lines, while still greatly improving cooling and sitting flush with the top panel. I also found out at least one reason the A/C doesn't work...one of the hardlines was snapped completely off the side of the condenser. So I went ahead and pulled it out as well. I never use A/C anyway, none of my cars have it, so instead of fixing it I plan on yanking the compressor as well and gaining some more lower engine access. Once the radiator arrives I guess I'll start move over to a build thread for the car, since this has sort of veered that direction anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted April 5, 2012 Report Share Posted April 5, 2012 Awesome info on the rad Matt - can't wait to see how it progresses. I've put up my 505 TD wagon in the build thread forum, and I've got a ton of stuff to do, but it should be awesome when complete. Lots of the same issues, and we're both new to diesels so it should be great to have both cars getting done. My car has a new Behr rad in it already - and no A/C as well. Condensor, and the lines are gone. It'd be nice put the A/C back - but I may just tint all the windows and rely on air flow for the few really hot days we get in the summer. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peugeottogo Posted April 6, 2012 Report Share Posted April 6, 2012 Here's a couple of photos of a complete and stock XD2S Looking at your photos, your egr control that would be mounted on the right strut tower below the overflow tank is missing (Picture #2) The electrical is there tied to your AC hose. Have a few more if it helps you out, but I see the one vacuum hose on the top of your injector pump with a plug for a bolt. The other line with the small inline canister that is feed from your vacuum pump (the tee location) needs to be plugged as well so your not loosing vacuum to the football shaped vacuum reservoir on the other end of the tee for your brake and HVAC controls. Not sure what else you are missing by your photos, but likely the egr controller is missing that would be mounted on the left strut tower behind the battery. Will study your photos a bit more later. Jeff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeugeotFan613 Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Wow! Epic car dude! I love how your car has the same awesome wheels as mine! Nice headlights too, and just damn nice! My sunroof doesn't work either, but it's because the sunroof motor was stolen a couple years ago while at the shop. The sunroof still has some issues apart from the motor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted September 7, 2012 Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Wow! Epic car dude! See... Diesels aren't all that bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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