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About JunktionFET

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    Peugeot Enthusiast
  • Birthday 12/22/1976

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    Raleigh, NC USA

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  1. As many of you know, I was hit by a car the other week whilst riding my '84 Canyon Express. I had the bike professionally appraised and settled with the driver's insurance already. I'm happy with the result. This leaves me with a bike that I'm rather attached to, but damaged enough to be unrideable. The big glitch is the frame is bent... It isn't bad, but it was enough to chip the paint (that's how I knew it was bent), and the rear brake caliper is all out of alignment. I'm fairly certain the bend is limited to the seat stays, but the chain stays may have also take a bit of a tweak. A while back I saw a bike that someone had customized by completely murdering it out. That is to say, everything was done up in satin black. It was a fixie as well (not something I'm interested in), but overall it was just this basic clean mean looking bike. I'm contemplating seeing if I can get the frame on my Canyon Express straightened, and if so, I'm going to go all satin black, though I'm keeping it an 18 speed, or perhaps a 21 speed if I upgrade the rear. I'll go with what the bike shop says as far as straightening safety is concerned, but I wanted to get some feedback here first: Has anyone had a frame straightened and 1) Does it cost a lot, and 2) How trustworthy is it (assuming it's minor).
  2. I was about to pull the trigger on the 14-28 tooth freewheel, but last night I found a NIB Shimano hyperglide 13-28 tooth 7 speed freewheel for $17 shipped, so I jumped on that instead. Inexpensive, and the 13 tooth top gear shouldn't be too far off from my stock 12 tooth. Being a hyperglide design, I'm hoping for awesome shifting behavior (and compatibility with modern chains). Stay tuned!
  3. My PSN-10 has developed a bit of a shifting issue. While pedaling, it often feels like it is popping out of gear and slipping. At first I thought the freewheel was internally failing, but upon closer observation when it happens (which is hard to do!), it seems the chain is riding off of whatever cog and slipping over top of the teeth. As luck would have it, I found a guy who writes a blog on the Park Tool site. He had a post about restoring a PSN-10, and experienced the exact same problem. He tried a number of solutions including different chains, etc... I think in the end he just blames it on the design of the teeth; They are squared off, not ramped like some of the Japanese designs. My bike has Normandy Luxe Competition hubs, and so far as I can tell, the rear hub has English threads, not French. Therefore I should in theory be able to ditch the Normany/Maillard freewheel and install a much less expensive and more readily available Shimano (or similar). Furthermore, I can theoretically step up from a 6 speed to a 7 speed since the spacing should be the same. I've not been particularly happy with the range of the stock freewheel. Top gear is a 12 tooth and that's fine, but the 21 tooth granny gear is just a bit tall for some of the hills around here. I can ride the bike of course, but it is taxing in some areas. I have ordered a set of freewheel tools so that I can remove the freewheel, and I have my eye on a Shimano 7 speed freewheel with a 14 to 28 tooth range. I figure that will give me a more friendly granny while sacrificing only a little top end. Next up from that has a 34 tooth granny, but I think that might be overkill?
  4. Looks like another Comete frame has come up for sale. Any takers on one of these rare projects? http://www.ebay.com/itm/221588241940?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
  5. Getting back to my Galaxie... The 7 speed freehub I got on eBay (for cheap... $7 if I recall) was supposed to be in good working order, but the bearing race internally seems to be worn to the point where it doesn't spin smoothly, no matter what I try. So... last night I stumbled upon a Shimano Exage rear hub with 7 speed hyperglide freehub. I ended up winning it for $15... what the hell, right? I don't want to have to re-lace my freshly laced hoop onto this rear hub, so I'm going to try just mounting the freehub to my Shimano 105 rear hub and hope for the best.
  6. That eBay auction is misleading... Though it says it is for a "turbo"diesel, the pictures clearly show a plain jane XD2 pump. There's no boost LDA/aneroid nor is there the EGR vacuum modulator and bracket that would come on a 1983 XD2S. If the pictures are indeed of the actual pump being sold, it is likely that the owner has been running the wrong pump and just didn't know any better.
  7. Thanks! I need to get back on the Galaxie too. I got discouraged when my attempt to assemble the 7 speed freehub failed. I think the barrel I got off eBay has some irreparable wear internally. Seems that when I torque it down, it's noisy and there is a great deal of drag. I may just take it to a bike shop and have them put together whole rear hub assembly for me.
  8. Takes a little getting-used-to, but I got the hang of it. It's much easier (for me) than downtubes, and probably safer than the stem-mount shifters. Overall I'm pleased. I do wish they sat closer to the brake levers (in other words, not as "inboard"), but it's good enough as is.
  9. Since I never made it official, I figure now is a good time, especially since I snapped some nice pictures today. Over the summer I impulsively bought a 1985 PSN-10 off Craigslist for very little money. It was mostly original as far as I could tell. Extremely lightweight for a vintage steel tube bike (21 lbs). Super Vitus 980, Mallard freewheel, Modolo brakes, etc. It needed new cables and bar tape. The cables that were on it were original, and they functioned alright... But the sleeves were worn and cracked. The bar tape had seen better days. I decided that red was a good contrast color for the bike's beige/gold paint, so I bought all new teflon cables, red bar tape, and since I'm completely hopeless with downtube shifters, I managed to scrounge a set of Kelly Take-Offs to relocate the shifters up near the brake levers. I added a pair of red bottle holders (frame had 2 sets of braze-ons), and a red under-seat storage bag. It was a gorgeous sunny fall day here today, so I took her for a spin and then snapped some photos. Enjoy!
  10. Little known fact about Joe (maybe) is that I'm an audiophile. I love vacuum tubes, analog technology, vinyl, and high quality loudspeakers. I'm mostly into vintage equipment, or new equipment with fairly simple circuitry. I find that music sounds more organic or natural when there's less "stuff" in the way. I've designed and built speakers and crossovers of my own, and have refurbished old speakers with new veneer and components. One of my best friends (since middle school) is a brilliant electrical engineer. He too is into high end audio, except he designs and builds his own amplifiers. On countless nights we've auditioned various designs, trying to find the clearest and more realistic sounding combination of parts. Anyway, I've always liked the idea of "mono-blocks" as opposed to a single "integrated" stereo amplifier. Basically a "mono-block" is a single channel amplifier that is positioned very close to whatever loudspeaker it is attached to. The idea is that you perhaps get better stereo separation, but you also considerably shorten the length of current-bearing wire that connects the speaker. You have a stereo pre-amp (or receiver) of course which is what your input devices connect to, be it a PC, DVD player, turntable, etc. Vacuum tube mono-blocks are usually stunning to look at because the power tubes are mounted on top of the chassis. The glow from the filaments and blue haze from the electron cloud inside are all part of the visual appeal: Years ago I had an idea to do something similar, but with solid state components. And being a car and Peugeot nerd, I wanted to make it somewhat car/engine themed. I figured I could use an intake manifold as a heat sink, and what better manifold to choose than the XN6! So my friend designed an amplifier circuit for me to build. It's one of the simplest amplifier designs known as "Single ended class A". There's just one output transistor and literally just a handful of ancillary parts. It's so simple in fact that you don't even need a PCB--you can just point-to-point wire the sucker together. Fast forward to present day... Just the other night I dug the XN6 manifolds I collected those years ago out of storage. This winter is going to be the one where I actually follow through and build these mono blocks. Here are the manifolds. I think that once I mount them on top of a slim chassis, they're going to look slick. I intend to illuminate the inside of the runners with amber lighting, so this warm glow sort of emanates from the four ports.
  11. As far as I know, the odd and even fire cams should be compatible. The major differences between the two engines is of course the crankshaft (major difference!) and the even fire has that balance shaft assembly on one of the heads. I wonder how smooth the engine runs without the balance shaft? A common modification on race prepped Honda engines is to delete the balance shaft(s). Reduces inertia and sometimes makes it safer to rev the engine higher.
  12. Over the weekend I replaced the fuel return pipe. Upon startup, the engine ran lumpy and I traced it down to the primer pump diaphragm, which seems to have finally failed completely. I installed my new one, got her primed, and she cranked up beautifully. However, trouble continues Remember the sluggish throttle return I mentioned before? Well that issue seems to have escalated. The throttle doesn't work at all anymore. It will idle, but I can pull the lever all the way back and there's no change. So now I have to pull the pump off and take it up to the shop. I spoke to the rebuilder on the phone, and he said that if it isn't something simple like the throttle lever coming loose from the shaft, then it's the spring under the top cover that attaches it all to the governor assembly. Ugh...
  13. Alpine-Renault and Venturi used turbocharged versions of that engine (up to 3 liters in the Venturi Atlantique if I recall), so that may be a good place to start if you want a cam grind specific for forced induction. For what it's worth, I like the idea of supercharging the engine. For one, I think it's the only thing that will fit in the engine bay. The single "hot vee" turbo probably wouldn't clear the hood, and twin turbos are probably out of the question as the stock exhaust manifolds are a tight squeeze as it is. I'm excited to see how this project comes together
  14. So, that miracle diesel shop that rebuilt both of my pumps has impressed me once again. Look at what the guy found in his collection of parts Best of all, no charge.
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