geo Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 So this is a new one. My SW8 had been sitting for a while, but started right up and ran for about 10 minutes. Coolant temperature and everything else was normal. I wasn't even under the hood, and it just stalled out like someone had turned off the key. No sputtering or anything. It just turns over now and doesn't even try to start. I have spark at the coil and distributor and rotor look ok so I think it is a fuel problem. I haven't checked the tachometric relay or fuel pump yet. I was wondering if it could be something as simple as a blocked fuel filter. Has anyone had this happen? Any other ideas? Thanks in advance. -George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 13, 2011 Report Share Posted September 13, 2011 Hi George, I'd check the fuses behind the ashtray in the dash - make sure they're all good and the connections are good. You can also bypass the tachymetric relay with power direct to the fuel pump. If that works you should be able to get a new tachymetric relay as they were used on Volvo's, so a quick google should find you a source easily as would our Vendors I'd think. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted September 14, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Hi George, I'd check the fuses behind the ashtray in the dash - make sure they're all good and the connections are good. You can also bypass the tachymetric relay with power direct to the fuel pump. If that works you should be able to get a new tachymetric relay as they were used on Volvo's, so a quick google should find you a source easily as would our Vendors I'd think. Rabin Thanks Rabin. I checked the fuses and they are OK. From the schematic it looks like I can just look for 12 volts at the fuse and if I have it the tachymetric relay is working. I also can jump 12 volts to the fuse to power the fuel pump. I won't be able to work on it for a few days though. Just wondering, have you ever seen a fuel filter clog that fast, with no problems at all first? -George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Looks like you're on the right track. Fuel is usually easier to diagnose than a no-spark. Less things in the chain. At least on start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 Thanks Rabin. I checked the fuses and they are OK. From the schematic it looks like I can just look for 12 volts at the fuse and if I have it the tachymetric relay is working. I also can jump 12 volts to the fuse to power the fuel pump. I won't be able to work on it for a few days though. Just wondering, have you ever seen a fuel filter clog that fast, with no problems at all first? -George I've never seen it stop dead due to a filter - it usually gives a fair bit of grief near the end of a fully plugged filter. I've seen fuel pumps die that fast though. Tachymetric relay provides power while cranking, and then waits for a signal from ignition to keep connection. If it doesn't get an ingnition pulse it breaks connection to the pump. So if it's the relay the car should start and die, or at least want to start while cranking. Do you hear the pump at all after cranking? I usually just run 12V direct from another battery and if the pump runs and the car doesn't start I can eliminate it at least. I'd also check the relays above the fuse box... Rabin Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 welcome back, george! haven't heard from you in a while, hope you get this problem sorted out quickly. when you get a chance, could you post some pics of your sw8? i've recently taken an interest in these... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted September 14, 2011 Report Share Posted September 14, 2011 When you blip the key to "Start", does the fuel pump run--you should hear it. If you don't, check the connection for the FI relay near the fuse box. I've seen those contacts get all screwy and result in a no-start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted September 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 17, 2011 When you blip the key to "Start", does the fuel pump run--you should hear it. If you don't, check the connection for the FI relay near the fuse box. I've seen those contacts get all screwy and result in a no-start. Thanks to everyone for their help. The fuel pump is working, I hear it run when I jump 12 volts to the fuse but she still won't start. Tomorrow I'll swap out the ignition and injection relays, and if that doesn't work start going through the injection schematic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geo Posted September 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Thanks to everyone for their help. The fuel pump is working, I hear it run when I jump 12 volts to the fuse but she still won't start. Tomorrow I'll swap out the ignition and injection relays, and if that doesn't work start going through the injection schematic. Well I cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner and it's working fine now. I hate it though because I can't be sure that's what the problem was. Anyway Andre, here's a picture of my SW8. The cars are hard to beat for utility. -George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 thanks for posting that, george, looks really good with the euro lights. at the risk of sounding greedy, i'd appreciate it if you'd post some interior pics when you have a chance (no rush). my wife likes my car, and likes the idea of the third-row seats, is why i'm now into sw8s...would like to see how roomy third row is, how it folds down, etc. glad you got the starting problem under control! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Well I cleaned all the connections with contact cleaner and it's working fine now. I hate it though because I can't be sure that's what the problem was. Anyway Andre, here's a picture of my SW8. The cars are hard to beat for utility. -George If cleaning all the contacts got your fixed I'd say you found and fixed the problem. I would highly recommend some sort of corrosion / moisture protection on those contacts like dielectric grease or something. I've been using http://www.corrosionfree.com/ that comes in a can, and it says it's good for electrical connections too. When I installed the front bumper I redid all the electrical wires in proper looms and used this spray on all the connections. As I tackle the car section at a time I hope to either fix and treat the stock connectors, or solder in proper weather protected connectors in from the wrecking yard. It's so nice working on the 00' Volvo with SEALED electrical connectors. It's not bullet proof though - factory loom is crumbling to nothing with the heat exposures so I'm relooming all the brittle parts to ensure the wires are all safe from abrasion. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 Electrical connections... Try Toyota. I have a serious love/hate relationship with Toyota. I'm equally at east working on yotas and Peugeots. Yota electrics are a dream. Referenced by color (!), bulletproof, well routed, properly insulated. You couldn't ask for better stuff. So what's wrong with Toyotas? Well, it's just that they're made by Toyota. I'll rant on how much Toyota sucks sometime later. At the end of the day, I'll still take a Peugeot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 19, 2011 Report Share Posted September 19, 2011 If it wasn't for the connectors used - I'd rate the Peugeot one of the best. Numbered wires AND colour coded = a dream to troubleshoot if you have the schematic. Best part is the older cars had the schematics in the owners manual! With the FSM - I've NEVER had an issue finding or tracing an electrical route. A far cry from working on any other car's electrical system. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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