andrethx Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 what do you guys think about diy powdercoating kits? i've read encouraging things about them in other forums, eastwood sells a popular kit and summit is closing out a wai kit right now (that doesn't need a compressor). here's what i've read: pros: inexpensive compared to sending stuff out to pros "soft" (i.e., not brittle) finish, good for things like springs, strut tubes that get some wear but are not in super-conspicuous places "overspray"can be swept away with a broom cons: requires a separate oven to cure in (so you don't get fumes/residue in your food-cooking oven) not good for large parts as kits use less current than pro rigs do you guys have any experience with these kits, or have you heard things pro or con about them? thanks, andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 6, 2011 Report Share Posted July 6, 2011 I've heard the same thing regarding having a second oven, and the need for it to be in a spot with good ventilation. The biggest thing to watch for - as with most things - is quality of the prepped part is absolutely key to the final outcome. I'd recommend any parts you're thinking about be bead or sand blasted to ensure the best results. Another downside to consider is future repairs, or keeping something maintainable. Powdercoat can be a BUGGER to remove in order to do repairs, and it's not easily fixed or restored should the coating be damaged. Mostly just things to consider - but it really is the best way to "paint" certain items. For my suspension upgrade - I bead blasted all the parts, and used automotive grade spray bombs to paint them up instead of powder just because my entire upgrade is theoretical until I install, road test, and then shake down. Once I know my set up works as I intended, THEN I'll look at powder coating any future upgrades. Until then, the parts will be super easy to clean up and retouch up with a spray bomb so it all looks "factory fresh" again should the need arise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohms Posted July 7, 2011 Report Share Posted July 7, 2011 my uncle bought the eastwood set way back when it was a new item for them to carry - never heard him say anything but good things about it. and yup, he had a junkyard oven in his garage for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 I've got a ton of experience in both preparing parts for powder coating, stripping old powder coating, cleaning it off parts to perform field welding repairs, etc etc. Ready for what I've learned? I'll never go near the stuff again! It won't come off, if the surface is not prepared correctly, it won't stick, if one needs to weld a broken part, the stuff is almost impossible to remove and get to a clean surface in order to have a clean weld. I've powder coated tubular formula car frames, magnesium, aluminum and steel wheels, aluminum panels and bunches of small parts. I've also sand blasted, chemical stripped, scraped, and otherwise killed myself stripping powder coating off all the above listed parts and more. It looks great till it gets scratched, scuffed, etc. You cannot see/find cracks in fabricated parts easily. My worst powder coat horror story: My last formula car was a British built Royale. Mild steel construction with all joints brazed together. The Brits built races cars this way until the mid 90's and some still are. Anyone, sand blasting would not touch the stuff. Acid dipping was considered but no one does it within 1000 miles of where I live. I learned the heat will strip powder coating, cool! Wait, not cool. It takes temps above 600 F to dissolve powder coating. Brazing is a low temp joining method and runs as low as 750 F. So, I could have risked getting back a pile of tubes clean of powder coating or used aircraft paint stripper, a custom made scraper and about 100 hours. Oh, and one blue tarp, ruined of course. Sand blasting and paint for me! Andre, check into some of the epoxy paints that come in spray cans. You can get black or white appliance paint that is epoxy. Sticks great, hard finish, very durable. I used it on hubs, cast magnesium uprights, axles, brackets and so on. Very happy with the results, plus it comes off. For the frame I used Rust Oleum, medium gray cut with some Mineral Spirits sprayed through my NAPA paint gun. Easy to repair and match, easy to strip if repairs are needed and pretty durable. Sorry this was so long to read... Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted July 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 point taken, bryan, thanks. might still get the kit, though, the one at summit is only like $100, and it'd be good for stuff like the front license plate bracket, etc. as well as stuff around the house... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryancohnracing Posted July 8, 2011 Report Share Posted July 8, 2011 Yes, for things that do not require repair, "beauty" items that aren't easily damaged and so on I highly recommend powder coating. As I build my cars for track and race use, we have differing ideas of what we want, need, desire. Like I'd never powder coat suspension, but for someone doing more show, casual street driving it might be perfect. I just wanted to make sure you got real life experience. I know I am a little biased against... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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