Bean

When you bleed the clutch are you getting fluid coming out? If so, can you see the clutch slave moving when the clutch is depressed? To me it sounds like the master or slave is leaking again, so make sure the clutch master isn't wet with fluid inside. Any details on the rebuild? Rabin

Looks awesome with that big IC up front! I'm also jealous of the biode euro headlights... (Separate high beam bulb and reflector instead of the singe H4 bulb in the ones we get here.) Nice job on the door fitment too. The pins are the usual suspects when they don't hang well - but if you had to fight bent hinges too then that would have been nasty. Rabin

I've thought about it lots. Best tip I found was that the 4x4 Mi-16 used the same rear diff with a flange on the input shaft. Figured getting one of those and you might be able to keep the rear suspension set up as is with some diff mounting re-inforcement. Or mod the tranny to the torque tube... Barring that - you'd have to re-do the rear suspension. Still not a deal breaker - but lots of work. I hope you do it though - 505 V8 would be AWESOME! (I want it for the sound alone!) Rabin

Hi Zeon, Not sure what a 904a auto tranny is from... Pugs use ZF auto trannies. 4hp22 and 3hp22's in the older cars. Only trannies that fit the N9TE that I know of are the 5-sp BA10/5 and the 4HP22 auto. Some other cars in Europe ran the motor as well (or can) like the MAtra Murena (sp?) but I've got no clue what trannies they run. Post more info and someone might have ideas. Rabin

Cool - you're farily close in Canadian terms... Bought my Volvo V70R from Millwood Honda this past November. Not sure why you need to get to the heater vents? But if you do the dash has to come out. The fan motor is behind the insulation on the firewall when you open the hood, passenger side. 89' should have the better stuff that doesn't disintegrate - so try to remove it carefully. Some strategic cuts with an olfa knife might make it easier as the only real way to get it all off in one piece is likely impossible with the engine in place. Once the insulation is removed, the round plastic housing needs to be removed - it's held on with about 10 "c" clips that pinch the two halves of the assembly together. Once all removed, and the rubber connector is off - it should lift out. Motor is inside the housing and held by three screws. Once out you can see the open motor - the rear most bushing on the axle is the one that usually wears out. A rebuild shop might have a replacement - I've always had spares... If you just want to unplug it, there should be a flat grey two prong connector going to the motor housing. All the cars I've ever had had the insulation gone or removed and the plug was easy to find. With a 40K pristine version - it might be harder. Rabin

Welcome to the forum Maxellmitsumi (?) Where in Canada did you find such a gem? (Hint - You should fill out your profile with more info.) I'm in Regina SK, and I also have only one of 3 or 4 in the city. (Actually probably have 5 or the 10 in the province!) GLX is the GL V6 - so the bottom spec model with the V6 motor. You don't say if it's auto or 5-sp, but it's pretty decent since it's quite a bit lighter. The squealing belts - all v belts are spec'd by thickness and length. They aren't Pug specific - you just need to know the size and order them in. (Sizes usually go up in 2 cm increments) As for the fan - you need to find a good used replacement - there are some bronze bushings in the motor that wear out and squeal like crazy. You can get temp relief by lubing it up - but that gets tiresome and lasts a very shor time - so you'll need to pull the motor. I've somewhat successfully replaced it with another motor - but it never blew nearly as hard. Might be worth the effort to figure out what fan would make for a decent replacement. Time being - I'd just unplug it! Rabin

Holy cow batman - metalflake! Looks good Tama. But seeing the goodies under hood I'm curious to hear how well (read how fast... it runs. Also curious to see the 17's - so you definitely need to post more pics! Rabin

Looks like a great start for sure! Look forward to see the final fit and finish. Rabin

170K on the pistons means that you definitely have blow by - but it's unavoidable with those miles. Do a compression test dry, then squirt some oil in and take it again. (1 tsp per cylinder). The increase after the oil will give you an idea of how much blow by you're getting. All 4 should be within 10%of each other. If that checks out - then yes - it should be possible to get it running in tip top shape. Rabin

All pugs except the pre-89' ABS cars have LSD diffs. 89's have Torsen diffs which put the power to the wheel with the most traction, instead if the regular diffs that send power to both. Turbo cars had 80% lock up, the rest have 40%. I was asked where I got that info - but I don't have readily available proof - just something I remember from way back... Sadly he's no longer with the car so I'm not sure when I'm gonna get the diff... We'll see though. Rabin

Welcome D00zer! That's quite the find I must say. All the hard to get parts are on the car - you just need to refresh and restore - AWESOME! Glad to see that you guys are going to those lengths to bring it back to it's glory. They're fantastic cars and worth every bit the effort! Rabin

If you have a holed piston - you lose that cylinder completely. So if your car is running on all 4 cylinders, then the piston is fine. What hear and feel is just blow by (leakage past the rings), and unless this is a minty LOW mile motor - it's par for the course. I'd suspect fouled plugs and a good tune up is needed to restore it's previous performence. If the mechanics that did the work didn't do that after all that work they did, then I wouldn't trust them to get it back into shape. Find a good mechanic to do a compression test, and if possible with some experience to properly tune it and it'd probably be fine. Rabin

Here's a couple pics from a while back... TOO FAR back in fact! Life has been going by so fast that these pics are 3 years old already... Car has been in storage for the last 2 years waiting for the time and the effort to be put into action all the plans I've dreamt of for the last 10+ years. I better get my butt in gear and get working on it or there's going to be nothing left! BTW - found some really cool Peugeot pictures and stuff that I scanned in years ago. I'll have to send them in to get posted in the photo section on the site. Pretty cool stuff really. Rabin

+1 on John's comments. They respond REALLY well to ignition and intake/exhaust improvements. The only other thing would be to put some hotter cams in if you're looking for bang for the buck. Superchargers installs would get expensive unless you wanted to do a ghetto SC install. I have a SC off a Nissan 3.3 V6 that will take a lot of modification to fit on my V6 engine, but it would make for a killer combination for real world driving improvements. With that much low end torque though - make sure the driveshaft splines (inside the torque tube) are very well lubricatied with high pressure grease. The splines that I've seen that were worn out were dry as a bone. The ones in my 504 V6 were greasy as can be and looked new after all the abuse I gave it as a teenager in a 504 V6 4-sp could! Rabin

A nice darker blue, or and "electric" blue would go nice with the red seats, you could then tie in details to the red accents on the car. (Silicone hoses, or painted suspension/brake bits in red) I'm also partial to motorsports white with the classic Peugeot Sport racing colours... But that kind of depends on the wheels (and colour) and tires you'll be using too. Tough decision picking colour - so good luck! Rabin

Yep - only 145 in North America... 180 HP was only the N9TEA during overboost. As for the name, it could also be a 505 GLX - a stripped out GL version with a V6. Naming was kinda weird as it also could be an STI-V6, or the STX. Rabin

Welcome to the forum Yakker... With no changes to the injection system, and guessing you probably have the uprated euro injectors (337cc?) you should be able to do 17psi? Others will correct for sure - but I wouldn't go more than that. Course with a larger intercooler, you might be able to go a bit more - but as with anything any tuning should really be done with a wide band and an EGT to be safe. Rabin

Looks great Johnny! All I'd suggest is painting the plate matt black to make it stick out less, or use more alloy plates so it matches... I've got similar ideas of mounting the gauges in the area right above your boost gauge, and then moving the switches to where the coin trays are. Rabin

Hi Mark, I've never heard of twin turbo V6 States side - but if you ever find out more info it'd be neat to see what ever came of the car. Since he's a writer - it may well have been the 89' 505 Turbo I4 as it too is a land based missle! They can be VERY fast cars in the right hands and with some tuning and upgrades. Here's hoping there's a TT V6 out there though! Rabin

August is right - go to a windsheild place to get it done. The stuff you get at retail stores is crap. Works for a little while but eventually falls off - usually in a much shorter time! Rabin.

Hope that's not the fate of Arlo's race car... Rabin Update: After some further reading it looks like it might be Arlo's kid maybe. Found some results that look like Arlo is now running a WRX... Results are from 2006 - so it looks like the Peugeot still had a hell of a run in competition!

Hi Mirek, Welcome to the forum! An 89 505 Turbo 5-sp is a very rare car - so enjoy it! As for the V6 twin turbo - there's no such thing. You'd have to make one if you wanted it that bad. Rabin

Brian Holm maybe? I know Mike Aube spoke of using nothing but taxi bushings on his repairs - so he might have a good source... Might need to pose the question on Peugeot-L list to see where people get them... Rabin

The set up that you have is sweet - no doubt - but the slim line fan I used is held on with these zip ties that go through the rows through a large round zip lock... It's all fairly light weight - and while skeptical it hasn't budged for years - and I autorossed the car. There may be other methods to attach if you prefer, but these plastic zip fastners that came with the fan didn't even damage the fins... The only other thing I can think of is if you found a way to move the fan closer to the header panel to get more clearance... Rabin

Hi Johnny - all rear calipers should be the same on the various 505 models (or at least fit), so you should be able to fit any one of them. (All were unvented disks of the same size.) Metako - It was the EXACT article I found when I was looking for cheap effective boost control. You'll probably read that many MBC's are affected by fluctuations, but in the case of this control unit - the valves are plastic, and the diaphram is some sort of neoprene or something. I was able to minimize it some my using steel lines from the intake and to the wastegate, and the unit itself was put together using fittings where possible, and a trick hard plastic tubing set up used for industrial control circuits. It was a good controller that worked like a grainger valve - but I found it was easier to tune, and easier to get smooth results from. Wasn't quite the way the article described in how it was supposed to work - but the turbo did spool faster with no wastegate creep, and I was able to get more boost out of it with no problem. Trouble was I'd tune the night before the event - we'd take it to the start of the leg and the boost targets were buggered - so I'd frantically try to dial it in before the event. Soon learned to use my mitivac as a pressure source so that I could set up the boost controller manually. Mitivac had a gauge on it and I could see when the check valve would release - and then I could see the final pressure reached on the other side too with another air gauge. Pain in the butt - but once it was set it would stay consistent the whole race day. I'm not sure I'd do it again for my own car, and definitely not for a daily driver... I just don't think the quality of the unit would hold up over the long haul. I think a much better route is to have the ECU control it - so megasquirt, or some other stand alone. (or in my case - another manufacturer's ECU. (Turbo Dodge in my case.) Rabin