billbranch Posted March 18, 2008 Report Share Posted March 18, 2008 Hi, Everybody, Most of you may have missed it, but soon after the tranny rebuild I encountered the dreaded broken wastegate actuator, and, while looking up we saw oil drooling down the sides of the block and said let's do it. The head's been welded, new piston rings, the whole thing is freshened up quite a bit: no oil leaks, a new/used radiator, an electric fan to replace the shorted out electro-magnetic fan, and a new allegedly rebuilt turbo which whistles. So, I am definitely going to replace the replacement. Can anyone tell me what turbo I should have? I saw in Jim Lill's Turbo List that the '86->'89 used the same turbo, but my car is a '91, and the turbo which we took off was stamped '87! I don't know what went in, but it's whistling, sounds like a siren, amd I think air leak. Thanks for any info. Bill PS One of my questions which no one could answer was about an unused sensor on the thermostat housing. The wire which should have plugged there was on the distributor. It's to feed the aircon compressor shutoff relay. With the wire there plugged to ground on the distributor, it's as if the engine was overheated and the AC would not engage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 19, 2008 Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Sounds good Bill! You'll have to give us an update on how it runs. Turbo - Not sure what you mean by whistling, since most turbo's do whistle - a sound I personally like... Best and cheapest thing is to just check the turbo for play in the shaft - and if there isn't any then it's likely a good turbo. The whistling you're hearing might be because of the turbo being better and tighter than the one that was on it - possibly even a different A/R ratio... If you insist on replacing - you're pretty much stuck with the Peugeot exhaust housing unless you're up for major changes. A nice upgrade would be to have it rebuilt and made into a T3/T4 hybrid. If you leave it stock that's fine too and a simple rebuild kit is all that's needed to freshen it up - but again that's only needed if you find play. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2008 Sounds good Bill! You'll have to give us an update on how it runs. It runs good, you're the second person to say many turbos whistle (maybe it's the hearing loss from too much loud rock music) but it's the first time I've heard it. I'm going to let the rings seat, give the engine a few thousand miles, and go from there, definitely turn up the boost a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 It runs good, you're the second person to say many turbos whistle (maybe it's the hearing loss from too much loud rock music) but it's the first time I've heard it. I'm going to let the rings seat, give the engine a few thousand miles, and go from there, definitely turn up the boost a bit. I spent Saturday morning getting the throttle body straightened out. Of course, the stop screw was frozen. We finally got the idle at 950, initial timing is perfect, last night I reset the throttle body pot, and the car runs fabulously. One offshoot of the new water pump and the shorted out electromagnetic clutch from the "fire" or whatever is that we installed an electric fan inside the shroud. I've attached a picture. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I really like that install Bill - very slick. Did you get a chance to check the turbo shaft for play? Sounds like she's running pretty good though... Just noticed in the pic - the plug wires are zipped together - that's kind of a no-no. There's a couple trick ways to use zip ties to tie them together but keep them separate, or you can just use those plastic clips... (I'll take pics of the zip tie way - words just won't do it justice!) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 I really like that install Bill - very slick. Did you get a chance to check the turbo shaft for play? Sounds like she's running pretty good though... Just noticed in the pic - the plug wires are zipped together - that's kind of a no-no. There's a couple trick ways to use zip ties to tie them together but keep them separate, or you can just use those plastic clips... (I'll take pics of the zip tie way - words just won't do it justice!) Rabin Hi, Bean, thanks for the reply, there was no play in the turbo. As for the wires, I didn't do it, I am going to ask Roger what's up with that and I understand the concept of separation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 What problem does zipping together wires cause? misfire? And why does it cause problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 What problem does zipping together wires cause? misfire? And why does it cause problems? I spoke with Roger today. He said that with the type of wires we use today, it's no problem, and, as an example, he said that the new Mercedes stuff the wires into a loom and run everything together to the plugs. I won't disagree with him: the car runs great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 25, 2008 Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Maybe it's just one of those things that were always done like that... I was told that way back when I first started working on cars to keep them separate - and learned the zip tie holder trick in 04' when I worked on that RS200evo. I figured if it was good enough for that car it was good for me! I would guess the reasoning behind it is to protect the wires from chaffing, and likely when they start to degrade - to eliminate any arc'ing between the two. (Often happens in the rain when it's easier to arc through the moisture causing a misfire) The stock N9TE has the same kinda thing for the wires and they're essentially held together like that as well, but I removed my holder when I installed the magnecor wires. (I'm also running an MSD 6AL ignition with a MSD blaster coil.) So it is probably fine - I just commented out of habit... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2008 Maybe it's just one of those things that were always done like that... I was told that way back when I first started working on cars to keep them separate - and learned the zip tie holder trick in 04' when I worked on that RS200evo. I figured if it was good enough for that car it was good for me! I would guess the reasoning behind it is to protect the wires from chaffing, and likely when they start to degrade - to eliminate any arc'ing between the two. (Often happens in the rain when it's easier to arc through the moisture causing a misfire) The stock N9TE has the same kinda thing for the wires and they're essentially held together like that as well, but I removed my holder when I installed the magnecor wires. (I'm also running an MSD 6AL ignition with a MSD blaster coil.) So it is probably fine - I just commented out of habit... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted March 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 OK, as an aside, a PS, a w/e, for anyone trying to get the N9Txx running properly, and I was remiss in not sticking to my guns when taking the car from the mechanic: Get the car set up right. The basic idle speed and initial timing setting are critical, but the potentiometer setting is just as important. The ECU bases what it sends out on the potentiometer and the microswitch, so let's discard any further reference to the microswitch; it's just an on /off switch, and it either works or it doesn't. The potentiometer initial setting is, in the eyes of the ECU, at 950RPM at 10°. If the initial idle is at 600 and at 12°, the ECU doesn't know. The car will not run right. The idle must be right, the pot setting must be right, and DO NOT use the microswitch stop bolt to set the idle; use the stop screw on the throttle body. If I am wrong I am sure someone will correct me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 OK, as an aside, a PS, a w/e, for anyone trying to get the N9Txx running properly, and I was remiss in not sticking to my guns when taking the car from the mechanic: Get the car set up right. The basic idle speed and initial timing setting are critical, but the potentiometer setting is just as important. The ECU bases what it sends out on the potentiometer and the microswitch, so let's discard any further reference to the microswitch; it's just an on /off switch, and it either works or it doesn't. The potentiometer initial setting is, in the eyes of the ECU, at 950RPM at 10°. If the initial idle is at 600 and at 12°, the ECU doesn't know. The car will not run right. The idle must be right, the pot setting must be right, and DO NOT use the microswitch stop bolt to set the idle; use the stop screw on the throttle body. If I am wrong I am sure someone will correct me. You know, you make an outstanding point there, Bill. The "new" 86 turbo I bought, I had actually done some work on before for the previous owner. I had bought a OEM microswitch setting tool on eBay and set that car on the owner's request. He was on the Peugeot-L list. I never bothered on my black car as it always ran OK. Hmmm... I wonder if resetting the base timing and microswitch will allow it to start as quickly and effortlessly as he 86. The 86 starts scary easy. Easier than our smooth-as-silk MX83 Cressida. One flick of the ignition. Probably just a revolution and it's up. I'm dying to try this. Thanks Bill! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted March 26, 2008 Report Share Posted March 26, 2008 lol, think ya lost yer hearing from rock? try loud rap AND rock through 2 10" Kickers in the trunk? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted April 26, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2008 Regardless of what was on the radio/CD player, this AM on start-up I heard a hissing when my foot was on the brake pedal. Whenever I stepped on the pedal, just to slow: hissing, and it would stop when the pedal was down tight. This afternoon, same symptoms, but when backed off the throttle, as when going down a hill: hissing. I thought there might be some connection between vacuum and boost. I floored the car, maxxed the boost, and the noise stopped and hasn't recurred. The brakes worked normally all the time, there didn't seem to be any loss of vacuum to the heater controls, for example. Any theories? Is my euphoria about to be short-lived? Thanks, Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted April 27, 2008 Report Share Posted April 27, 2008 One offshoot of the new water pump and the shorted out electromagnetic clutch from the "fire" or whatever is that we installed an electric fan inside the shroud. I've attached a picture. Bill whoaaa! can you post some more pictures of the water pump, and how the hell you got an electric fan to clear the OE waterpump shaft? i've been battling that lately with a project lol, think ya lost yer hearing from rock? try loud rap AND rock through 2 10" Kickers in the trunk? you have 2 10's in the trunk of your 505? how's it sound? crisp hard hitting bass? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted April 30, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2008 whoaaa! can you post some more pictures of the water pump, and how the hell you got an electric fan to clear the OE waterpump shaft? i've been battling that lately with a project you have 2 10's in the trunk of your 505? how's it sound? crisp hard hitting bass? I shall not take credit for it, it was Roger, who decided that to battle with the original set-up was a losing proposition. It was not an OEM pump, I think it was Beck-Arnley which I picked up on eBay a few years back for $20US or something like that, and it was necessary to trim off a bit of the shaft. Roger spent one sleepless night, then resorted to the Dremel tool. He thought that the 3/36" was a bit close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted May 4, 2008 Report Share Posted May 4, 2008 thanks... for posting the pics, and the info.. it looks like he only cut a little off the shaft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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