tulaweb Posted June 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2013 Back in the saddle again! http://youtu.be/rSqcxFGFVas I picked up the car yesterday afternoon now with Joe's engine in it. It started and idled smoothly but as soon as I started down the road it bucked and kicked and threw out a huge cloud of black smoke. My first thought was that the fuel in it had been sitting for 10 months and had who knows what growing in it. Once I got up to about 40 miles an hour it ran smoothly and didn't seem to smoke but at lower speeds under any load it ran like hell. I put about 5 gallons of fuel in it and thought maybe I would drive it around for a bit and change the fuel filter. As I thought about it a little more I got to thinking that perhaps the EGR control system was hooked up incorrectly. This morning I pulled the vacuum hose off the EGR valve and clamped it. That made an absolute night and day difference. I'm not certain if the vacuum hoses are hooked up wrong, the wires to the vacuum solenoids are wrong or if the speed sensor is incorrectly installed but clearly the EG was R-ing when it shouldn't have been. Since I didn't previously have a #2 injector with the sensor the EGR valve wasn't functional on the old engine. It was functional on this engine before it was removed from Joe's car. I see that the vacuum solenoids and associated hoses and wiring harness is still in the grey car so they used what was in the blue car. Since that stuff was bypassed several years ago I don't know to what extent it might work. So for now It runs great with the EGR valve disabled. When I get a chance I'll try and diagnose that system and see what was wrong and how I can make it right. Of course if push comes to shove I'm OK as is. The other thing I notice is that the Tach doesn't work. It was working on both cars before the transplant. It seems like the likely sources of trouble are the TDC sensor, MM2 ground, or M110 ground. The MM2 ground behind the left headlight generally seems to be the root of all evil, but of course I know the TDC sensor would have been disturbed in the engine swap so that's also high on the list. When I start the car the tach pins all the way up, and drops back near zero when the car is shut off. So if that rings a bell with anyone, Let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 So glad she's back under her own power! Yeah that EGR system is easy to get wrong. Those late model systems include a vacuum operated throttle plate ahead of the EGR valve, so that under very light load, fresh air is very restricted and the engine is forced to consume a lot more exhaust gas than it would ordinarily. If the vacuum lines for the EGR valve and throttle are mixed up, or the solenoids are misconnected, you'll get some pretty wacky performance. I think there's a map under the hood showing how the lines should be routed. I'm not sure if it details the wiring to the solenoids though :-/ Anyway, I'm sure you can get the tach situation sorted. The sensor may just need to be adjusted (it slides in and out, closer or farther away from the flywheel). The automatic and manual are going to use different clearances since the flywheel and flex plate don't sit in exactly the same centerline. I've seen the sensor pushed too far inward though and consequently "machined" away by the flywheel/flexplate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted June 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 I think there's a map under the hood showing how the lines should be routed. I'm not sure if it details the wiring to the solenoids though :-/ I have the factory service manual for XD2 XD2C XD2S but not the XD3T. I think the 1884 XD2C had the same EGR setup as the 85 XD3T, if so, I've got a nice color coded diagram. I also have the 1985 electrical service manual so hopefully between those I can figure it out. Of course the place that swapped the engines is willing to give it another try on both the Tach and the EGR but I probably know more about both than they do, so I'll take a crack at it first. I spent half the day today getting the parking lights and the turn signals working again. I also transferred the remaining fuel from the grey car to the blue one and changed the fuel filter. My neighbor asked me why I was working so hard when it's over 90 degrees since it's going to cool off the next few days so I told her I didn't want to drive around without turn signals and I wanted to drive around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 The XD2C used a Ducellier electronic system which is different from the Bosch system on your XD3T. The XD2C system was introduced on the non-turbo XD2 in California in 1980, and was adopted federally in 1981 to the end of XD2 production (technically mid year 1984, though I doubt there are many if any non-turbodiesels in 1984) The Bosch system was used on *California* 1984 XD2S cars, and *All* 1985-1986 XD2S and XD3T cars. I might have something... let me check Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted June 26, 2013 Report Share Posted June 26, 2013 The whole Bosch EGR section is too much for me to scan right now, but here's the wiring diagram part of it. I hope it's legible enough. Note that there's more here than just EGR... shows some glow plug circuitry as well as the cold start advance circuit. **Note that this is for the 1984 models, so the cold start advance is electronic unlike the coolant-operated deal on the XD3Ts. Basically, there are some differences, but I'm thinking the vacuum solenoid wiring is the same. Hopefully. https://www.dropbox.com/s/dzarlkzh4bhsu2k/egr.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 Thanks! I found a better one in my electrical service manual. It's specific to 1885 and it shows both electrical and vacuum. I probably won't get a chance to mess with it till Monday, but I'm sure with this to go by, and two sets of everything, I can make it work. Of course it's (the car) perfectly functional in the mean time. http://www.tulaweb.net/images/Car/EGRdiagram.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted June 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2013 While I was working on my turn signals I noticed that one of my headlight adjuster rods was missing. If it was knocked out while switching engines it may be in the trunk full of leftover parts I have only briefly looked through, but with a parts car sitting right there it was a 30 second fix. That is a luxury I've never had before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 2, 2013 Getting the old engine ready for an autopsy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 3, 2013 Report Share Posted July 3, 2013 Very curious to see what seized the motor... I think I mentioned way back that I had an XN1 in a 504 "seize", and it turned out to be the thrust washer on the crank that got bound up. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted September 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2013 Last week I noticed that the right headlight was quite dim. Some time ago I had the same thing on the left side. Back then I assumed it was a bad ground because most everything wrong usually is. That time it turned out to be the bulb, so the other day I picked up a bulb. Yesterday, on my way home, the right turn signal, both front and back, stopped working. This morning I went out to check that and it was working again, but while I was there I changed the headlight bulb. That did not help. It was still dim, so of course I tried jiggling the ground connections. I could get it to come on full power with my fingers on the connection but couldn't get a good reliable connection, so I took the ground block off, removed all the connections and cleaned everything with a toothbrush and contact cleaner. It's working properly now, but I think tomorrow, I may snip off all the original connectors on that side, and replace them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted September 20, 2013 Report Share Posted September 20, 2013 that's a good idea. i need to address similar electrical/lighting faults on mine next time I'm home.. BTW - a friend of mine is getting close to pulling the trigger on a 505 td of some sorts.. however, his plan is to toss the engine, and swap in something crazy and totally out of line with CA's smog laws... hence why he's getting a diesel which is smog-exempt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 I heard a bearing noise from the left front wheel for a few days, and I'm planning to drive to New Hampshire tomorrow. I got bearings and the seal from Rock Auto and the spindle nut from Madhu. I had rebuilt calipers, new rotors, pads and hardware kits that I got a couple of years ago, knowing I would need them in the not too distant future, so this seemed like the time. It turns out that the caliper that had the number of the left side was actually another right side caliper. So I had two rights and no left. It seems the left is much harder to come by than the right. So I went down to the parts car and got that one which was in better shape than the one that came off. So now I think I'm ready for my trip to NH (my 40th High School reunion). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Never would have guessed you're going to your 40th high school reunion! Very cool that you're driving the 505 as well! I only did my 10th, and can't remember why I couldn't make my 20th... Good to hear you got the car sorted, but I'm curious what happened to the spindle nut that made it unusable though? Keep us updated on the trip too! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted October 3, 2013 Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 glad you got it sorted out, dave! also, like rabin, i can't believe that you are old enough for a 40-year reunion. you look so youthful and full of hope in your photos....not at all like someone old enough to have had their dreams crushed many times over (like me). my 30th reunion was last year, but i didn't go. i'm still in touch with pretty much all the people i liked from high school... andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 Good to hear you got the car sorted, but I'm curious what happened to the spindle nut that made it unusable though? The spindle nut was all buggered up and that's why I had the bearing noise. I don't know how or when it got that way. I've never layed a finger on it, and I don't recall any reason anyone else would have recently. The only thing I can think about having to do with that wheel was about a year and a half ago I had a sudden violent rattle. I pulled over and found 3 of the four lug nuts on that wheel were gone. One was on the ground a few feet back and no sign of the other two. I had some lug nuts in the trunk and although the studs were a little bit damaged I was able to get them all on. Shortly after that I had the car at a Sears tire center for a couple of tires and they told me that one of the studs on that wheel was turning. I was going out of town in the other car the next day so I left the car with them and had 4 new studs shipped to them. When I came back a week later, I had my tires and one new stud installed. Then back about a year ago I replaced the ball joints and tie rod ends. I thought I noticed a noise that might be a bearing after that. I took it in for an alignment, due to the front end work, and asked them to also check for the bearing noise. They said they heard nothing and that the wheals spun smoothly. I didn't hear the noise after that, until recently. Of course in between then and now, the car sat for 8 or 9 months with a hydrolocked engine, and was briefly up to the bottom of the doors in hurricane Sandy water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2013 not at all like someone old enough to have had their dreams crushed many times over Well I'll be 60 next month, but I usually say I've been 25 for 35 years. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2013 I got inspired to change the oil this morning before leaving for NH. I'm now almost 400 miles from home. I went right by the old Peugeot of America corporate headquarters. I stopped for fuel just before leaving NJ. In NJ it is illegal to pump your own gas (diesel is legal to pump your own) so at a big highway service center, there are a lot of attendants at the fuel pumps. At this one they are all Haitian. As soon as I pulled in, they swarmed all over me asking about my car. I guess they hadn't seen one since they left Haiti. One would ask what year it was and then translate to the others, then another asked how many miles and then told the others. They were running their hands on it like it was a cute puppy dog. As I pulled back on the highway, a guy in a newish VW Beetle passed me staring at me with a big grin and gave me a thumbs up. As I crossed into Massachusetts a state trooper pulled me over to tell me my license plate light was out but he just told me to fix it when I got home and sent me on my way. When I pulled into the hotel, in NH, there were a couple of guys out front smoking and one of them started explaining to his friend what my car was and where it was made. He said he hadn't seen one since he left Irac. He tried to buy one when he came home but couldn't find any in the US, and he didn't think there were any more left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 16, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2013 800 miles round trip with no significant problems. After I got home, I put one of the license plate lights back together with epoxy and duct tape. The lenses were both OK but the socket/backplates were falling apart. After gluing one of those back together, I took the contacts apart cleaned them and reasembled. It seems to be working OK. I replaced the other with a new one. Two other issues: There is a speed dependent clicking sound coming from the instrument cluster, pushing in on the cluster, or pushing it side to side can stop the sound briefly so I'm fairly sure it's coming from the interface between the speedometer cable and the speedometer. The injector pump has started to leak again. You may recall that it was leaking significantly a while ago and one day I had to get fuel from a no-name station because I was running on fumes, and the leak stopped. Every time I get fuel elsewhere, the leak starts again. Of course on my trip to NH, I had to get fuel to get home. I'm getting low now so hopefully when I get my local fuel again the leak will stop again. Obviously I'm going to have to get the pump resealed in the not too distant future, but as long as my local fuel from "Emporium" stops the leak and doesn't show signs of causing problems, I'll hold off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2013 Two other issues:There is a speed dependent clicking sound coming from the instrument cluster, pushing in on the cluster, or pushing it side to side can stop the sound briefly so I'm fairly sure it's coming from the interface between the speedometer cable and the speedometer. The injector pump has started to leak again. You may recall that it was leaking significantly a while ago and one day I had to get fuel from a no-name station because I was running on fumes, and the leak stopped. Every time I get fuel elsewhere, the leak starts again. Of course on my trip to NH, I had to get fuel to get home. I'm getting low now so hopefully when I get my local fuel again the leak will stop again. Obviously I'm going to have to get the pump resealed in the not too distant future, but as long as my local fuel from "Emporium" stops the leak and doesn't show signs of causing problems, I'll hold off. A full tank of fuel from "Emporium Gas" with a shot of my usual Red Line Diesel Fuel Catalyst, and the injector pump has stopped leaking again. I have no idea why fuel from this one station makes the leak stop and anywhere else makes it start again, but it works so I'll take it. I removed the instrument cluster, pulled the speedometer cable out a fraction of an inch, and replaced the instrument cluster. No more clicking sound, at least for now. Yesterday I changed the differential oil. I can't remember the last time that was done, maybe never. I used Red Line 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil 57904. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Just to be on the safe side I would pull the speedo cable at the transmission and try to inspect the end... When the cable gets dry the strain tends to affect the cable at the transmission end, and the wires start to fray. Cleaning the cable and regreasing, and removing any frayed wires can usually save the cable. With good speedo cable maintenance they should last much longer too! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Just to be on the save side I would pull the speedo cable at the transmission and try to inspect the end... When the cable gets dry the strain tends to affect the cable at the transmission end, and the wires start to fray.Cleaning the cable and regreasing, and removing any frayed wires can usually save the cable. With good speedo cable maintenance they should last much longer too! Rabin Thanks that's probably a good idea. The noise was definitely up at the speedo end. This cable is only about 2 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Two year old cable you're probably fine for damage or anything, but still good to check that its still well lubricated... I've had a similar clicking / ticking sounded like it was at the speedo head, but it was a frayed end at the tranny end as mentioned. Cable couldn't turn well and it made a clicking sound that travelled along the cable. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 Two year old cable you're probably fine for damage or anything, but still good to check that its still well lubricated...I've had a similar clicking / ticking sounded like it was at the speedo head, but it was a frayed end at the tranny end as mentioned. Cable couldn't turn well and it made a clicking sound that travelled along the cable. Rabin How do you lubricate it, and with what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2013 Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I started flushing the cable with brake clean, and then using a spray grease called Amrep Misty® Slip Shot II Multipurpose Spray Lubricant that sprays like a light oil and then sets up into a proper thicker grease. http://www.bettymills.com/shop/product/view/Amrep/AMRA727-16.html It works great so far. I've used dry spray graphite, lithium spray, oil, and gear oil - but the Slip Shot II has been by far the best. Quick story: the wheel hubs on my mountain bike were sorely neglected so I thought I'd buy some time with a quick shot of this stuff into the bearings. Loosened the axle nuts, blasted with brake clean, compressed air, the slip shot and reassembled. When I finally had enough time to do them right I took them apart and found they were in a really nice thick red grease! They felt great and the grease was still clean - that totally sold me on this stuff so I bought a case of it. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted October 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2013 I had a product like that many years ago. when I ran out, I never could find it again. Doesn't anyone sell Slip Shot II in less than case quantities? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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