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The car should never see 14psi so the boost cut solenoid is working, but that means the wastegate on the turbo is NOT working. Don’t keep doing it though as repeated cuts at that boost level is still enough to eventually do damage. Use a small air pump or something to test the wastegate to make sure it’s working. If it is, then make sure the boost lines and the solenoid are working as the 89’ controls it electronically. Plan B would be to bypass the electronic control and just route the boost signal line direct to wastegate for the time being. Rabin

You should make sure the engine is timed, and the TPS is set properly. I had a car that did something similar and the timing was too advanced. Did the TPS adjustment procedure at the same time and the car was perfect! Rabin

Dang - Sorry for the late reply, I just saw this! Any updates? Smoke in the coolant tank is bad, but also something I've never heard of before, although combustion leaking into the cooling system would make sense. HG is an easy enough repair on these, and also quite a common failure so nothing to be scared of. Have you bled the fuel system? Does your primer work on the filter head assembly? I'd start there as it sounds like you need to ensure the fuel system is properly bled and you have no leaks in the filter head that could be letting air into the system which will stop fuel from being pulled in - common failure in the primer. Rabin

Hi Tom, I assume you mean 1987? Feel free to post up any pics you might have. Rabin

Nice work! You’re really going after the efficiency side with the wrapped cast iron exhaust manifold - heat is energy so good to keep it in. Are you using a boost controller or just using the wastegate?

I circled the fasteners that have holes drilled in them - usually done on race cars or on safety systems so that the fasteners can’t loosen.

Sweet - Interesting that there are fasteners on the pump that have been drilled for safety / race wire…. Was they’re any recommendations to wire them up after install?

Agreed - should be fine, but it was just one of those curiosity things where my brain would want to know what it was. Have you got the pump back yet? Rabin

Did you check cylinder protrusion to see which notch gasket to use? Rabin

There’s no picture limits so I’d invite to you to go to town with pictures and most anyone on here will need to buy sight unseen. Guessing it’s an ‘85 XD3T with 3sp auto? Newer style wheels and the euros make it SO much better - good luck with sale! Rabin

I’m sure either myself our Hugh could find a home for it, I’m in Regina Saskatchewan and Hugh is just outside Calgary Alberta. Mike does make some good points however which is why your initial price would be a tough sell. I would recommend travelling with some key maintenance items, or at leases doing a very thorough stage 0 refresh not only to assure troublefree travel, but also for peace of mind for the buyers. No idea what HDI specifics would be, but tbelt, water pump, accessory belts, and filters would be a start. Suspension bushings, tie rods, etc etc. No idea what shipping costs would be, or how much that ends up being, but I’d be happy to work with you to ensure you have a planned sale for your trip, but would need quite a few details for that to work well. Rabin

Oops - I’ve only ever seen the rope seal for the N9TE turbo gas motor! If you get a chance to take pictures I’d be curious. Details on the graphited seal would also be good - I’m curious. Ive seen other engine builders that have updated older rope seals by machining the block to accept a proper press in seal, but that’s not for anyone that doesn’t have ready and available access to an engine shop for cheap! Rabin

Any rope seal that fits should work - I remember hearing the Jag rope seal just needed to be trimmed to fit. 10mm square would have to be tried, but the original rope seal is quite oval. If it fits, the graphited gland seal might be an upgrade. Rabin

West coast of Canada and the Rocky Mountains would be a must see. If you do come to Canada keep us posted - Is the car a manual? KMs on it? Leather interior? Any details will help find a buyer as well as what you’d hope to sell it for as I would imagine it would be good to have something lined up before doing your trip. Rabin

Hi Curt, US residents won’t be able to import that car until 2027 as they have a 25 year rule. Canadians can import cars that are 15yrs old so you’ll likely need a Canadian buyer. I’m Canadian and love diesels, but the 2-door would be a hard sell. Hope that helps with the planning! Rabin

Each gauge is basically in their own circuit, so while they may share a ground, they might not so I wouldn’t dismiss it being a ground issue especially in a Peugeot! Definitely check voltage changes when you do it however. Rabin

Wow - it’s quiet. Do a voltage meter just to see if the voltage is dropping. Does it do similar when you turn your lights on? (Or any other high load?) Only other thing would be ground circuits. Making sure the grounds are all clean and in good shape helps all sorts of issues. Rabin

I bet your battery voltage is dropping under load, which causes the voltage across the resistance of the sensor to change… Put a voltmeter on it and I bet it does a similar blip. Sound works for me btw. With engine running I’d wager it doesn’t move or move as much. Rabin

Just make sure you measure piston protrusion as it was common practice to install the 3 notch gaskets by lazy mechanics who didn’t want to bother with measuring, or who would only stock the 3 notch. Just reiterating these warnings as they were drilled home for years on the Peugeot-L e-mail list. @wadehilts 22 ARP head studs would also be $$$$! I got some for when I do my N9TE but there only 10 - albeit 10x M12 which are pretty crazy strong. (Same size used in the Cummins and Ford diesel truck engines!) I think gaskets were the weak point on these, so a fresh gasket and clean mating surfaces should be fine for the power increases being sought. Rabin

I asked about studs and was told not to bother because there were so many bolts used you’d never have to worry. If you do find some that will work however keep us posted! You might also want to try Cometic - I’ve got one of their HG for the N9TE and it’s very nice. Rabin

Any hydraulic shop should be able to fix that hose no problem, just make sure they can do automotive PS lines as it doesn’t need to have the full on hydraulic hose that is very stiff and hard to move around. And yes - The car will surface all sorts of issues from sitting so long. Just keep an eye on the cooling system getting pressurized. That’s the first sign of a cracked cylinder head, and will often present with coolant leaks. Rabin

Thanks for that - I was just curious If you searched and bought as Peugeot parts or if they were listed and available via LDV400 parts sources - but that answered my question as well. Prices sounded very cheap / reasonable, and they all look high quality. Rabin

The only ones I saw were the VW guys that did mTDi conversions. They removed the electronic controller and had a fairly elaborate analogue system to actuate the vanes. IIRC the VW turbos were normally open and the controller closed the vanes for low down response. With analogue the needed vacuum to close the vanes, and boost to open the vanes. It wasn’t very pretty and tuning it to work well sounded like a nightmare. If a variable turbo was designed to be analogue that’d be great. Aftermarket systems I looked at just needed an RPM signal and a TPS rigged up to tell it throttle input - My XD3T has both, but the cost with the turbo I wanted was over $3K. Since the turbo I wanted (Holset he200vg) was heavily based on the TD04 turbos, I figured they would be a good fit / or a good place to start at least. Rabin

I looked at a bunch of analogue control circuits, but with a computer controlled version they anticipated boost needs better so they had much better / wider boost control. Most of the VW IDI threads I followed found a well sized turbo was almost as good as an analogue controlled variable geometry turbo without all the added complexity. That said - the only ones I found were modified turbos that were computer controlled stock turbos originally. Are the turbos you mentioned manually controlled from factory? Rabin

Hi Arthur, Torque will be directly correlated to boost, so the lower down you can build boost the better, but the problem with normal turbos is that faster spool means smaller turbos which will choke quickly. The TD04-13T that is being used should boost fairly quickly and still be able to flow throughout the power and, but the ideal for immediate boost and maximum torque would be to use a variable geometry turbo with a dedicated controller, so it just depends where your budget cap limit is. Once Wade confirms what the 13T is like however, it might be so good the variable geometry might not be needed. BTW -Where did you get all your engine rebuild parts? Rabin