N9TE

I'm more interested in the euro antenna... s'up with that Victor? Always wondered if it would make an easier solution than trying to fart with the Hirschmann antennas.

I'm completely with you on stealth install. But if you've got a real monster amp and you're going to be pushing it, you'll have to think of airflow. I personally wouldn't worry about weight. But damn, 40 lbs?! I'd still mount them vertically behind the fuel tank. What's the car's purpose? Street car? Then, don't worry about the weight. It's a street car that will never teach a C5 any lessons. I wouldn't do the under truck fuel tank. Fuel tanks rust and ours don't because of their location. Up where you are, that's a consideration. Too much effort for too little benefit. I'm just not going to go with such a big amp unit and my purchase will consider form factor as a parameter. But you already own yours so that's just an academic point.

Just a little more noise to the diff discussion... The MKIV Supra (93-99) had a Torsen diff as an option. They didn't use torque tubes, but were full independent units that could handle the hefty output of the 2JZ engine in at least BPU form (400 RWHP). They were mated to a Getrag 6 speed and are relatively plentiful. I really don't see the upside of torque tubes myself. And from people who I've known with Torsen units, they're not the panacea that those of us with Torsen-envy make them out to be. I believe August was somewhat "meh" about his (when he had it).

Awesome. I'm going to start up a 505 registry. I know it sounds silly, but now is the right time to do this. You should show off your 404 Coupe on a separate thread here. Some of the best lines to come out of Pinin farina.

Any audiophiles here? Anybody put a double-DIN unit into their 505? Anybody spent some real money on their sound system? I'm thinking of putting a nice system into the 86 after I do the car with Damplifier Pro (Dynamat competitor). For now, it only has a stock item. My 87 has a Sony that came from my old Supra. I bought this new in like 1999 and it still work great. (Pictures taken with my G2 using it's "flash") However, I'm looking to move into the tens with bluetooth, iPod control, etc. My absolute biggest bitch is non-intuitive user interface. Seems like every system is designed by a 18 year old looking to impress a girl! So what ya got and what do ya want?

PM sent

Start by carefully removing the passenger door panel. That way, you'll learn exactly how it comes off. It's not hard. Much like all other cars. You'll have to remove pull handle (3 screws I think) then carefully popping the door clips around the edges. Be careful with the plastic surround around the inner door handle. It pops straight out. But be very careful as they're really fragile. Have a good flashlight and peer in where there is resistance. Act/think like a surgeon, not a mechanic - especially for this. Don't force anything. Once all clips and screws are out/off, the panel will lift up from the window channel. You need to roll down the window before the last step. Become an expert with your one good door as it's obviously tougher than the closed driver's door. You don't want to break or damage anything as it will mean scrounging and begging for the the parts you broke that are no longer available from the factory. Good luck and welcome to the Peugeot fold!

Is this anybody here? http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/2085738348.html I'd like the water pump if somebody is going to harvest parts.

Which car?

We're talking about intermediate level jobs on 505s here. Not rebuilding a BA 10/5 or a N9T engine. Things like changing out a blower motor, removing a door panel, etc. Also, bonus points if they are common and/or safety issues. Never messed with power sunroofs (both mine work) Never done front brakes (EXPERT on rears though) removed speedo cluster Done fuel pump/filter Pulled injectors Dropped fuel tank Done any suspension work I'm thinking that I need to get stinky with the fuel system in the spring... OK. Your turn.

Hi Marek, thanks for dropping by! Yes, $7K is a bargain and hopefully that "relatively" expensive price will keep it in the hands of an adult that will treat it like the outstanding car it is. Feel free to post as many pictures of that car as you wish here. Actually, it would be nice to see such an example. If you don't have a place to host them, just let us know. We'll find room somewhere!

Andre'? You wanted a 505? If this is the real deal, then it is a instant ride to the top of 505 ownership. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/2057667804.html (no relation to seller, just caught this on CL)

Ya, I think they have one for the Android. However, with my 4G G2, I have no problem surfing the site just as is...

I need that thing that covers the blower motor. I have a new blower motor, but the insulating cover that covers it up is crumbled and fubar. I heard that they started making the unit out of a more durable material in 1987. I'm a little surprised that yours from an 86 is in good shape. Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing... Thanks!

Just what the title says. I need one for my 86. Probably looking at an 87+ unit as the 86 and earlier ones are made of graham crackers. Looking for a nice, intact one. Let me know what you have. Thanks, Koll

OK. So I had one done up. I used similar stuff. Pipe is aluminum. 70 degree bend. 1 hour shop time. Total cost: ~$150. Pic 2 shows final angle within 3 degrees. As good as a fit as you can expect. Last pic shows that the silicone ends contribute to the final length of the unit. Factor that in when you have your pipe cut down to size.

Italiogem, you know we run across nice 505s every so often. Let us know if we should keep you in mind when we come across these. You've been a great 505 owner and it would be nice to see you back in the fold again. Like I've always said, even paying at the high end for these cars, you get so much more car than most other options. Let us know,

Yep, I agree. That's definitely fixable. You're gonna be able to squeeze the cash out of the loser that hit you, right?

Both cars are garbage. Sorry. They just are. Both cars' wear items reflect a turn-key driver - A guy who fixes the car when it breaks, but otherwise just racks up the miles on 'em. That's fine if there's a ton of parts and people to work on the car, but these cars fail that test on both counts. Now, with that, you have to assess yourself. If you want a nice 505, you're in for the cost of the cars and at least $5K to get just ONE of those cars to nice condition. Both will need a respray. 88 has roached leather. 89 will need a decent body and paint man. 88 is surely suffering from deferred maintenance. Just look at the engine compartment! Like the myth of the "affordable $15K Ferrari", the mint, cheap French sedan left us in the mid-90's. The things that made them desirable are starting to fade as it expected on any 23+ old car. Paint, leather, engine, etc. Going through any of these general areas costs bucks. If someone who loves 505s got 'em and tossed a lot of time and $$$ into them, sure they can be saved and made whole again so people would drool over them. But, anybody looking for a daily driver is going to be sorely disappointed. I actually am one of those sick guys who would do that. But I've also got a dead reliable E36 that starts every time, can tie up my garage with a inop 505 for months on end, have all six factory manuals, and a ton of factory tools, plus the jumbo microfiche with fiches, and bunch of spare and OEM parts, etc. I don't want to harsh your mellow, but you're got to be realistic. Look at this the same as any other rare, old orphaned car. Say a Renault Caravelle or Fiat 500 or RHD Rover or Citroen SM, or Saab Sonnet or Porsche 928. You would go into ANY of those cars with the expectation that you'd get away with a primo car for $3-5K. The 505 is actually harder than those all (parts availability) except probably the Caravelle. If you jump in, do it with your eyes open.

If you have some of the factory wiring left, you can deduce the correct polarity for the speakers (+,-). Then, you can match it up with the speakers you bought. If the speakers don't have + and - terminal markings, you can get one that does just for tests and hook a 1.5v AA battery up to both terminals. I think + is positive and the cone will go out. If that's correct, and you'll have to test it if you don't know. I always just test it on the spot as I haven't cleared any brain cells for memorizing such an item. It's something I always do when installing new speakers. It can take a bit of time to do, but it's worth it.

I doubt it will cause problems. Your N9TEA one fried? You know that? They're pretty robust units. You can always check the pin-out with a factory book to make sure the N9TEA and N9TE are functionally the same. Changes would have been slight, mainly with some tweaking of the maps.

Since your going to cut them, that'll make sourcing them much easier. I'll have a good write-up on them in the next day or so. You will only have to match one bend per side. It will make more sense when I do the write-up.

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_TPI...Brass-Tees.html 1.25x50

Wow, only 41 US cars. Do you have production numbers? That would be nice as well. No English cars? Keep up the good work! Koll

So here's my teaser... N9T hoses are still available, but N9TE/A hoses with the cooling lines for the turbo are not. So, I got some N9T hoses from Rob & Javel and got these T connectors from JagsThatRun (www.jagsthatrun.com). The awesome thing about the upper silver fitting is it has a sight glass and petcock to bleed air so we don't have to do the funky process to bleed the system that the book prescribes. Here's their picture of it in action... I've yet to fit everything together. But I'll have a custom made AFM-Turbo hose, new coolant hoses and a general clean-up of the front of the engine. Pics will follow as things progress.