SRDT

9x35 is the ratio, maybe you can fit the Torsen on a regular crown with little/no machining.

Almost every time the head is not wraped so you just clean it and drop a new gasket, it's the updated version with roller rockers?

6170-C3 doesn't look like a Peugeot part number, parts starting with a 6 are not engine parts.

The early 136hp J4R found on 406 and 605 before 19/11/95 does have the J4RS rods and a block with oil squirters but after that the rods are drilled to squirt themselves and the block is not machined anymore for the squirters.

With the head, cams, manifolds, oil pump, pistons... it can be worth it ; but I don't know how mutch you have to pay in Macedonia for a running engine or how hard to find are these parts. Before buying it you should remove the cam covers for a quick check: if it was a major lubrication failure maybe the head is shot too.

The crank is the standard 2.0 one, only the XU10J4 from the 405 T16 and the early 605/XM doesn't have the same. The rods on the other hand are another thing but XU10J4R rods can probably do the trick. On the hardware side the cheap way is to go with an aftermarket engine management like megasquirt so that you can use other engine loom/injectors/coils.

Since the 82 model year XD2 and XD2S shared parts like rods. You need to dig those part numbers out of servicebox: http://public.servicebox.peugeot.com/classic/AIDE/8505/03_505.html?id=sous_menu0|0_9

So you need to create an electric signal... and then feed it to a custom electric speedometer. The electric speedo convertion has been done before but for me is still imperfect as the dials readings where not identicals and the difference has been adressed with a speedohealer ; this is ok for the dial but makes the odometer wrong. It should be possible to modify this internally because after all that's how you go from MPH to Km/h and also the way they can manufacture almost the same speedo mechanism for different dials and customers.

How did you weld the manifold, Pulsed TIG? Does the gearbox have at least an electronic speed sensor?

The bar IS a spring, a straight one but it works exactly the same as a coil one. With too much anti-roll you will lift a wheel, and by anti-roll I mean not only the sway bar but also the springs. On my diesel 309 after putting GTI16 front springs they was too much anti-roll on the front and so understeer and loss of traction appeared, also the body itself was twisting as I could hear the windscreen moving (it's not glued on the 309). The solution was to use a big GTI sway bar on the rear, no more twisting and oversteer was back!

From a V6 auto it can probably do the trick, otherwise the diesel engines may have bigger ones. But if you put the intercooler in front of it with also an oil radiator you can have problems, it's all about managing space and make sure that the air have no choice but to cross the radiator.

405: 309 405 http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/405F/1/13E30A.HTM 309 http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/309F/1/13E70A.HTM http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/309F/1/13G65A.HTM http://www.miamistu.co.uk/pug/GB/309F/1/13G72A.HTM

You an use a VNT without electronic, the first diesel with VNT where like that: Croma TDID, Renault Espace 2.1 dTv... This guy is using a Croma turbo on his P4: http://forum.clubmbf.com/viewtopic.php?t=4491

Yep pentagon screws, you can see that often on brake calipers. The shaft was balanced as a whole and with those screws you can't unbalance it or at least not by accident.

Volvo did something close: But again the KKK turbos can probably fit better: Speaking about the 205 Turbo 16 the road going ones where made with as much off the shelf parts as possible, making only 200 of them means you won't ask for a custom exhaust housing. They used the fuel distributor from a Porsche 924 turbo and the turbo was probably at best an hybrid made with two existing ones.ded

Looks a lot like KKK flanges, the 205 Turbo 16 got something like that with a Ø56.2mm opening on his K26.

The valve cover is made out of Magnesium by STIHL, the bare metal under the paint can look strange if you are expecting aluminium.

Fog lights can also be found on 306, Citroën AX, BX, CX, Jumper/Boxer/Ducato and also Fiat Seicento but not the 205. http://www.ebay.de/itm/2x-NEBELSCHEINWERFER-NSW-NEBELLEUCHTE-NEBELLAMPE-H3-LINKS-RECHTS-FIAT-SEICENTO-/301274917539?fits=Make%3AFiat|Model%3ASeicento&hash=item4625626aa3:g:s7UAAOSw8-tWUHlc Just don't buy Valeo ones as they can't fit the originals plastic trims.

You can probably order some custom-made with welded aluminium lips or with the screws on the inside. Also some have made this kind of wheels using the original cast wheels as center section.

Really nice, you can have 16" or bigger but not cheap: http://www.imagewheels.co.uk/pd-alloy-wheel/ Or look for used Dimma alloy wheels.

In the 306 HDI the engine is 30° slanted exactly like a XU or XUD (in fact the "new" DW engine was a plain old XUD). In a 206 or newer the EW and DW are slanted at 18°30' so if you use a flywheel from these cars the missing tooth will be 11°30' off ; not a problem with standalone engine management as long as you know it.

The 2.0 HDI 90hp engines have a special flywheel and a 230mm push type clutch made to fit in a BE casing but you will probably have the same internal diametrer problem.

There is only the 215mm pull type clutch that is stronger and can fit. The XU and XUD mated with a ME or ML gearbox use a bigger 235mm push type clutch with another flywheel.

You probably need another clutch plate anyway, the 215mm stock one is good for a 205 GTI with a mild turbo engine but the 405 is not as light.

The rough part is what was left and finally broke: The part (at least in this zone) can handle much more than 150hp, that's why the rough surface is only 15% in this case. Threads are a common weak point, that's why airplanes have UNJF threads: