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Hello i would like to find a detailed procedure of an Xn6 head gasket replacement. where can I find it? thanks a lot tom

Finished the grinding/scraping/preparations today on the Sportwagon. Next week I will treat the metal with Chassis Saver (similar to por-15), and into the paint shop it goes. This was the day I was least looking forward to, so glad it is over...

Hey guys, been a bit... Re. the red car, got the injectors out and cleaned them, re-installed them, fired right up and nothing leaking now, so that's a good start. Still need to install the new driver's side front brake hose and want to service the rear calipers, but that's for another day... Re. the SW, finally getting ready to have a little paintwork done. Started today by scraping some rusty scale of the bottom of the hatch, as well as the driver's side doors. Fortunately the car is very solid, so this is a very basic cleanup and respray of the damaged areas, unlike the red car which needed some more invasive surgery... Stay tuned...

Hey guys, Thank you very much for your answers. I thought it was like that too. I think I've already read about it here. But I wasn't sure! Here in Germany I can't get an answer to this question! They're mostly just posers. Laughing at people who want to make drastic changes to your vehicle. At most they change the polish of the paint... Ok, that's pretty harsh, but it feels like it! ;-). In any case, I want to change the ratio. And that raises some questions because I want a long ratio differential from a 505 with more than 100hp. ...and then for the front and rear. So there is independent suspension at the front and a rigid axle at the rear. I will try it! The engine should have enough power (130 hp) for the higher ratio gearing. The wheels are also a little bigger. Instead of 195/80 16, 225/85 16. I wish I was further along. Our house fire set everything back a bit. All the best Jens I will report to you...

My son using the tool to press piston#2 in.

Used a tapered ring compressor (84 mm) to assemble these, man they're just perfect!

I can find 3 EZ200K variants: 5945.26 (0 227 400 033) form 01/86 up to 01/87 5945.46 (0 227 400 128 N9TEA 176W with boost control ?) from 01/87 up to MOD 89 5946.49 (0 227 400 153 N9TEA Wagon ?) since MOD 89 From the outside these ECUs are not visually similar to the Volvo or Saab EZKs, they seem to be closer to Alfa Romeo's EZ201K (75-Milano 1.8 turbo) and EZ212K (164/GTV 2.0 V6 turbo).

Seem at kat versions has this EZ 200 K which looks information from knock sensor and lamda info and has no those pressure switches. I have some factory books about kat version. those are in germany lang but has good pictures.

All the US models have cats though. Iv not seen that pressure switch before and Iv gone looking for it before a few times.

The dual curves ignition box and pressure switch are used on the 160 and 180 hp engines with intercooler and no cat. I think US models should have a Bosch EZK ignition ECU unless it's a non intercooled car.

Don't think so. In US the coil is mounted vertically right there and I dont see anything like that.

505 sedan and wagon differential internals (ring and pinions) are supposed to be interchangeable as well. I’ve never done it, but I’ve heard it done from wagons to sedans for rally cars to get higher ratio gearing. Rabin

Should be same in 504,505,604, TAGORA except pickup models cause those have screw type rear axle.

Should be there? next to gauge sender? Number 3 is switch, note at for me it was stuck cause there was moisture which was reacting with sensor internals and rusted inside.

Hey folks, Is there anyone in the forum who knows whether the inner workings of a 505 differential fits into that of a 504? Or from a 505 sedan to a rigid axle from the 505? Thank you and best regards from Bavaria. Jens

I have seen those curves and information about a pressure switch somewhere before but I think that is for European cars. I dont think we have that pressure switch in america

Bump

If I have my base timing at say 10 degrees at idle then what would you say is normal for me to see in the 4000-5000 area? 30 degrees?

I made adapter from old plug, pipe and air connector. I would check timing and distributor gear play. Also distributor internals. Look with timing lamp if there inconstancy in spark and advance from idle to 4000-5000 area. I made one gear with slotting but it did not make realy difference with dani cam.

The old PF1 platform is probably a bit stretched here. It is also on its last leg, at least for the european market.

Popped back over to the UK for a two week visit until April 5th. This time we rented this 2008-based Vauxhall Crossland. Not very impressive to drive, barely more economical than the Volvo XC90 we drove there last year, despite its puny 1.2 3 cylinder engine, and the suspension was nasty.....which coincides with what a friend who rented a 2008 in Britain last year concluded. Here in the Cheviot hills, crossing into England from Scotland, on a B-road.

Did this head get sold? Do you have anymore danielson heads or cams? I would happily buy one of you

Same spark plugs as a sport bike so that should help find an adapter. Cbr600f3 used the same 10mm plugs I believe. Keebs slotted his cam gear and said it was fine, there’s a friction disk that would help if you can get the right size: https://wctperformance.ca/ie-ekagrip-vw-audi-4-cylinder-cam-gear-friction-disk/ Would also use Nord-lock washers on the bolts to be extra sure. https://www.nord-lock.com/en-us/nord-lock/products/washers/ Rabin