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"The coolest 505 GTi EVAR - end of!"


d00zer

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Are there any pictures of the finished car?

When I look at the users project thread at retro-rides.com the last post from him is from Dec 11, 2007.

The last picture showing his custom made exhaust pipe. Hope he will post more picture when its finished.

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Just went through the entire thread - the dude "Slater" has some skills...

While I'm not a big fan of the style - I still think it's pretty cool and he's definitely done some very trick stuff with the suspension that we've all thought about doing - just for a different application...

Still be cool as hell to see it finished - just wish he was on this side of the pond as I'd love to get some of the stuff he fab'd up.

Rabin

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so much for suspension geometry :)

LOL - no doubt!

But if you actually were setting the car up properly - the bits he's made would be able to dial the car in pretty damn nicely...

Granted - though - if you were to do it right - you'd be using the threaded adjustible bits on newly built suspension arms and not just cutting and welding into stock ones - but the thought is sincere enough... :(

Rabin

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  • 4 weeks later...

LOL - no doubt!

But if you actually were setting the car up properly - the bits he's made would be able to dial the car in pretty damn nicely...

Granted - though - if you were to do it right - you'd be using the threaded adjustible bits on newly built suspension arms and not just cutting and welding into stock ones - but the thought is sincere enough... :)

Rabin

No im doing it 'right', right for what it needs to do. Its called engineering :D

Thanks for all the postive comments, this site is on my bookmark list :)

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Welcome to the forum Slater!

I was just catching up on your thread last night and noticed this topic was posted on your site... I was debating joining that forum just to ask a few questions so I'm REALLY glad you joined ours instead... :)

So now for my questions:

1. So why didn't you build new trailing front links instead of cutting and welding the stock ones? I read your post that they were forged and that allowed you to weld - so since I do not know much about welding forged cast (looks cast anyway) -I take it's fine? I'm assuming so if it passes MOT - just want to make sure! When I first saw it, my immediate thought was that replacement out of tubular steel with the adjustable bits would have been easier / lighter - but then that's not really the purpose of the car. (Maybe short on time?)

2. If you get the chance can you provide more details on the strut mount set up you built? It's a work of art! I've never seen that sort of adjustment set up before and am curious what kind of adjustment increments it allows for camber and caster.

3. How did the spring rates work out for the rear suspension? Are you happy with the damping and rebound or does that all still have to be worked out? There should be a spring rate chart for these cars if that helps you get it sorted - should at least give you a proper starting point if you need one.

That's all I can think of so far... :D

The work you did on that car was truly outstanding - just wish you were closer so that we could hit you up for a production run of some of the bits! I've got an 86 Turbo 505 - and having the adjustable suspension bits would be fantastic for what I want to do(Time Attack - possibly rally in the future). All of us have discussed the possibility of doing the coilover conversion on the front as well as re-engineering the rear suspension set up - so seeing you do it in a matter of weeks was quite amazing.

If you need any other info about the car just say so - there's a pretty hardcore 505 turbo bunch here, as well a yahoo group e-mail list that can help out.

If you ever do some more detailed pictures you should make sure to post a link here too...

Rabin

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Welcome to the forum Slater!

I was just catching up on your thread last night and noticed this topic was posted on your site... I was debating joining that forum just to ask a few questions so I'm REALLY glad you joined ours instead... :)

So now for my questions:

1. So why didn't you build new trailing front links instead of cutting and welding the stock ones? I read your post that they were forged and that allowed you to weld - so since I do not know much about welding forged cast (looks cast anyway) -I take it's fine? I'm assuming so if it passes MOT - just want to make sure! When I first saw it, my immediate thought was that replacement out of tubular steel with the adjustable bits would have been easier / lighter - but then that's not really the purpose of the car. (Maybe short on time?)

2. If you get the chance can you provide more details on the strut mount set up you built? It's a work of art! I've never seen that sort of adjustment set up before and am curious what kind of adjustment increments it allows for camber and caster.

3. How did the spring rates work out for the rear suspension? Are you happy with the damping and rebound or does that all still have to be worked out? There should be a spring rate chart for these cars if that helps you get it sorted - should at least give you a proper starting point if you need one.

That's all I can think of so far... :D

The work you did on that car was truly outstanding - just wish you were closer so that we could hit you up for a production run of some of the bits! I've got an 86 Turbo 505 - and having the adjustable suspension bits would be fantastic for what I want to do(Time Attack - possibly rally in the future). All of us have discussed the possibility of doing the coilover conversion on the front as well as re-engineering the rear suspension set up - so seeing you do it in a matter of weeks was quite amazing.

If you need any other info about the car just say so - there's a pretty hardcore 505 turbo bunch here, as well a yahoo group e-mail list that can help out.

If you ever do some more detailed pictures you should make sure to post a link here too...

Rabin

Well theres not relly any point in making them from scratch. Its just more meterial you have to buy and alot more time machining them than doing it with weld-in adjusters. They might be stronger and maybe a bit lighter but theres no point if they are strong enough when welded and weight is hardly a pime consideration with my car. Incidently over here you can buy the weld in adjusters as a kit from a place called Rally Design. Its done to more popular cars like Ford Escort mk1/2s and Minis all the time.

Same goes from th strut tops. You can buy them as 'blanks' where you drill the mounting holes to suit the 505 yourself. This works out much cheaper than making them from scratch but again this kind of top mount is extremely common over here!

Spring rates seem spot on, 350s on the front and 250s on the rear. Car is smooth but firm. Athough this car is hardly performance orentated!!

Check back on Retro-rides if you want to keep up with what im doing. Its hard to keep up with all these forums!

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Welcome to the forum Slater!

I have two questions too,

What is the car engineered for?

Why use aluminium for the rear beam mounts?

Although those wide wheelarces aren't really my thing I think the other work you've done on the car looks awesome. :)

I'm a bit disapointed though that you didn't make the top shock mounts from scratch, since I was most impressed by them. :)

Rabin,

What do you mean by forged cast?

I thought that a detail was either forged or cast? :D

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Rabin,

What do you mean by forged cast?

I thought that a detail was either forged or cast? :D

Sorry - should have just just said forged, in my head I was thinking pressure cast which is the same thing as forged... :)

Slater - thanks for the info on the spring rates you used. Tried finding the factory spring rate chart that was on someone's site and couldnt find it for comparison... :) Also checked out the Rally Design site and was quite impressed! Too bad none of that stuff is as readily available over here...

Rabin

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I have two questions too,

What is the car engineered for?

Why use aluminium for the rear beam mounts?

I'm a bit disapointed though that you didn't make the top shock mounts from scratch, since I was most impressed by them. :D

Well its basicaly engineered to turn heads and look good. Its in no way intended to handle well or go fast, its just a bit of fun. The criteria for operation is basicly that i can drive it to a few shows with out it breaking and/or costing me lots of money in tyres through bad gemoetry on the suspenson etc.

Over here 505s are pretty rare, Saloons are rocking horse poo. In a way the car deserves more beacuse they are so underrated and unloved. but if i hadnt have picked it up it would probably be in a scrap heap or on its way to africa to be abused by now. We have a problem in the English car scene of people building the same thing over and over and never trying anything differant. There are a few cars, mainly fords and VWs that are thought to be somehow 'superior' to other cars and most people are scared to try and build somethign different. Hardly anyone relises a 505 saloon even exisits let alone that they are RWD and Attulay bloody good cars!

I tend to go aganst the grain with my cars and do something differant start with a differant car, mod it in a differant way etc.. It makes people sit up and take note and even if they dont like it atleast they now know what a 505 is!

It must be working as it cirtanly made you guys (and many others) notice! :)

Its 2 fingers up at people who think cars have to be built with function as top priority, people who think that everything without a Ford/VW/Opel/whatever badge is no good and generally at the way things are with car building over here. Basicly people who wear metophorical blinkers and slag off stuff because its not the way they think it should be done.

Why use aluminium? Well 2 reasons.

Firstly it makes the beam solid, so the rear end of the car cant 'steer itself' when the rubber ones flex, It sacrifices a bit of noise for better handling (after all all they are thier for is to isolate the noise from the wheels fom the interior)

Secondly (and most importantly for me) the orignals were split and you cant relly get any parts for these cars eaisly over here so i had to make some. I dont have facilitys to cast new rubber mounts even if i wanted too!

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Well then mission accomplished! It definitely gets attention - and I love how you wound up others on retro rides that just don't get it.

You really are preaching to the choir when it comes to how under appreciated these cars are, and how most people are ignorant to what they are or how good they are... We get the same thing here - but those that DO know about them bond as instant friends and set up forums (Thanks August!) like this for the few that still that want to mod and develop the cars...

My hope is that after a few us get out long term builds going they should really set people straight...

BTW - thanks to you I did some more research on coil overs and found a great race shop with almost all the parts needed to do the coil-over mod on the front struts, as well as replacement springs and possibly an adjustible spring perch for the rear as well... Just have to sort out what should be the ideal spring rates for a fast road car / time attack track toy.

Rabin

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Well its basicaly engineered to turn heads and look good. Its in no way intended to handle well or go fast, its just a bit of fun. The criteria for operation is basicly that i can drive it to a few shows with out it breaking and/or costing me lots of money in tyres through bad gemoetry on the suspenson etc.

Why use aluminium? Well 2 reasons.

Firstly it makes the beam solid, so the rear end of the car cant 'steer itself' when the rubber ones flex, It sacrifices a bit of noise for better handling (after all all they are thier for is to isolate the noise from the wheels fom the interior)

I can only agree to what Rabin said before, you've got heads turning now!

Could aluminum beam mounts cause any reliability problems?

I'm thinking that the strain must be greater on the frame, since it must absorb the energi that the old mounts absorbed before, but that might be neglicable?

The reson that I'm wondering is that I want to make my own if comfort is all that would be sacrifised. :lol:

Perhaps you have drawings of them that you could send?

BTW - thanks to you I did some more research on coil overs and found a great race shop with almost all the parts needed to do the coil-over mod on the front struts, as well as replacement springs and possibly an adjustible spring perch for the rear as well... Just have to sort out what should be the ideal spring rates for a fast road car / time attack track toy.

Rabin

Coil over springs seam to be pretty cheap, so perhaps the easiest way is to go by trial & error?

Maybe if the driver is experienced he should be able to suggest how the car should be set up and if the springs are too stiff or soft?

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