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Rebuild: 505turbo "racecar"


Guest adegnes

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Guest adegnes

I guess you could call my car a 92 turbo. garrett t3 baby!!

it is a very simple conversion...called B230F+T. As for the boost, not that much yet, after all, its a a "junkyard conversion" using 700 seiries parts..lol

could you post some pics of that engine bay? would be cool to see how you've done it...

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aint got a turbo in rite now. im gonna t3/t4 it. the piping and exh. manifold is s***. the car in general needs help.

btw...bean...

oh no.

you cant.

please for the love of god, if you donate that, ill die. does it have any mods??

just please tell me u wont donate it. fix it up, if it aint startin. c'mon. all the help u need is on the many volvo forums, that the internet holds....

when all is done, ill show u for sure.

in the mean time, feel free 2 go to turbobricks.com, and look @ the homepage's featured artictle. There is then a link to the complete conversion, and as you will see, the late 240's, with the b230f engines, are VERY easy to turbocharge

ill keep ya posted :angry:

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Guest adegnes

I guess you could call my car a 92 turbo. garrett t3 baby!!

it is a very simple conversion...called B230F+T. As for the boost, not that much yet, after all, its a a "junkyard conversion" using 700 seiries parts..lol

aint got a turbo in rite now. im gonna t3/t4 it. the piping and exh. manifold is s***. the car in general needs help.

Signature:

1991.5 Volvo 245

B230F (need to turbocharge), M47, Ipd Hi-flow exhaust, Bilstein Shocks, Ipd Springs, Ipd Anti-sway bars, 2 Kicker 10" Subs, Aux. Voltometer, Aux. Tachometer

So, are you force-feeding your Volvo, or not??

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Guest adegnes

looks like it's coming along really well adegnes. sweet suspension setup, are you going to be entering it in some rally events? :angry:

:) I'tl be a bit lower with the engine in, but something drastic has to be done...

I'll try cutting coils at first, see if it works ok.

With the lower weight, the suspension feels rock hard (and high as a mountain :D )

usually, it does'nt get any softer after cutting a couple of inches... (more like 4" in this case, damn it's high!)

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:angry: I'tl be a bit lower with the engine in, but something drastic has to be done...

I'll try cutting coils at first, see if it works ok.

With the lower weight, the suspension feels rock hard (and high as a mountain :) )

usually, it does'nt get any softer after cutting a couple of inches... (more like 4" in this case, damn it's high!)

after driving a 505 *hard* after having the springs cut i'm pretty convinced we need some custom springs made. i dont think cut springs are enough. i'll be curious to see what you think though, let us know for sure...

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Guest adegnes

hey adgenes, nice.

Are those taillights smoked??

Thank's

yepp, they are smoked (not by me). I don't like it that much though, they always look a bit dirty...

Maybe they'll look bether if I'll darken them some more.

It looks great Adagnes (apart from the suspension :D) , keep up the good work!

Thanks! any updates on your car?

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Thank's

yepp, they are smoked (not by me). I don't like it that much though, they always look a bit dirty...

Maybe they'll look bether if I'll darken them some more.

Thanks! any updates on your car?

It's going slow... I have bought a mag-weld now anyway, so I might get some work done soon. =)

I still have to fix the intank-pumpholder though.

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Pics look great! You've done so much work in a very short time - which is awesome...

I only have one suggestion though - I'd suggest a re-work of your seat brackets. It looks like plate alloy was used - and if that's the case it'd rip WAY too easy in an accident or even in high g-load situations.

I'd look at putting a boxed steel section in for the seat rails to bolt through - or just see if you can bolt the seat rails through a steel plate under the car - that should give it a lot more strength.

I tech cars at race events and if I saw that in a car I'd fail it for sure... Just want to avoid that happening for you when you race it!

Rabin

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Guest adegnes

Pics look great! You've done so much work in a very short time - which is awesome...

I only have one suggestion though - I'd suggest a re-work of your seat brackets. It looks like plate alloy was used - and if that's the case it'd rip WAY too easy in an accident or even in high g-load situations.

I'd look at putting a boxed steel section in for the seat rails to bolt through - or just see if you can bolt the seat rails through a steel plate under the car - that should give it a lot more strength.

I tech cars at race events and if I saw that in a car I'd fail it for sure... Just want to avoid that happening for you when you race it!

Rabin

The bracket's are made out of 3mm stainless steel, and theres a 90deg 20mm edge on each side of them. with the edge, they're almost as strong as a box-section.

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Guest adegnes

I just have one question, how did you remove the windshield?

just pushed it out from the inside, no trick to it...

I'm replacing all the windows with 4mm polycarbonat.

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Good to hear! Hard to tell just from the pics, and the angle of the pics - so I thought it was wise to clarify.

It'll be neat to see how the car turns out when it's all finally done and running!

Rabin

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Guest adegnes

Aha, so it's not glued?

What a relief! I have some bodyrust on my car around the windshield that I hopefully will fix in the future so that's why I was wondering.

Nope not glued (from factory at least...)

I forgot to mention, you'll have to bend out the inner lip of the windshield seal (it's what keeps the windshield from poppimg out) at the top with something flat, and as wide as possible, then you just push it outwards like it was hinged at the bottom. I you're not going to reuse the old seal, you can just cut off the lip.

be carefull when pushing it out, so it doesnt brake.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest adegnes

new turbo, got it for free of a friend.

post-113-1184666389.jpgpost-113-1184666408.jpgpost-113-1184666425.jpg

It's in verry good shape, exept for a badly worn thrust bearing, probably due to insufficient oil pressure, or dirty oil.

post-113-1184666448.jpgpost-113-1184666457.jpg

Replacing the bearing is super easy, getting hold of a new one... not easy at all since I don't know who made it, and since it's probably a cheap no-brand turbo, spare parts will be preety hard to find...

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new turbo, got it for free of a friend.

post-113-1184666389.jpgpost-113-1184666408.jpgpost-113-1184666425.jpg

It's in verry good shape, exept for a badly worn thrust bearing, probably due to insufficient oil pressure, or dirty oil.

post-113-1184666448.jpgpost-113-1184666457.jpg

Replacing the bearing is super easy, getting hold of a new one... not easy at all since I don't know who made it, and since it's probably a cheap no-brand turbo, spare parts will be preety hard to find...

free turbo!?! score!

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new turbo, got it for free of a friend.

post-113-1184666389.jpgpost-113-1184666408.jpgpost-113-1184666425.jpg

It's in verry good shape, exept for a badly worn thrust bearing, probably due to insufficient oil pressure, or dirty oil.

post-113-1184666448.jpgpost-113-1184666457.jpg

Replacing the bearing is super easy, getting hold of a new one... not easy at all since I don't know who made it, and since it's probably a cheap no-brand turbo, spare parts will be preety hard to find...

ppsh!

lucky!!!

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Guest adegnes

The turbo's a KSR K-Performance 34 Stage III, suitable for applictions up to ca. 550hp.

Compressor housing: A/R.50

Turbine housing: A/R.63

Compressor wheel 57 trim

The internal-wastegate backplate from the OEM turbo fit's (standard T3)

but It's recomended to use it with an external wategate.

Currently trying to get hold of a new bearing.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Guest adegnes

Engine started today!!

Everything seems to be ok, except for a small waterleak at the pump pulley...

is the pulley axle sealed with some kind of standard O-ring, or is there a special seal there?

I've got a spare one, so I'll try that one out first, hopefully it does'nt leak.

Will post some pictures as soon as possible..

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