august Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 BTW, I've changed the throttle-body and installed the black box and the wires so now pin 2 on the injection-ecu gets 12v when the throttle is closed and pin 3 gets 12v at "WOT". The wiring was really easy. I just took +12v from the microswitch, the idle-signal-cable and used one of the potentiometer-cables for the "WOT"-signal, connecting it to the 3b-cable (under the footrest), which goes to pin 3 on the injection-ecu. A funny thing is that the "WOT" signal really isn't giving the signal at WOT, it gives it when the throttle is 40-50% open. i'm still not clear on how that works. the TPS adjustment is so critical when it comes to performance, i dont understand how you can just replace it with basically an on-off switch and get the same results. what about timing maps? how does it determine engine load? afm flap angle? How do one post on peugeot-l? I have tried to join the list but my attempt failed, I guess I'm just not used to that kind of forum. do you have a yahoo account? you don't *need* one, but i'd suggest it. 1. go here: http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/peugeot-L/ 2. Sign up via yahoo, or email [email protected] and continue with the email instructions on joining the mailing list. once your signed up, email [email protected] to post a 'message' to the list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted December 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 The ignition-ecu that is originally on the car (EZ200K) uses the basic injection duration-signal from the injection-box, together with rpm from the distributer to determine the basic ignition-curve. The basic injection duration is an indication of how dense the air is, IE: if the air is denser, the basic duration increases. This is relevant because if the air inside the cylinder is denser, the molecules are packed tighter, and the fuel burns faster when ignited, then the spark must come closer to TDC to make the cylinder-pressure-peak come at the right time. The same applies to the air being less dense. Edit: It should've been "The opposite applies to the air being less dense" (I was in a hurry when I wrote this ) The ignition-box then alters the ignition-curve based on the TPS-signal. It also sends a WOT-signal to pin 3 on the injection-box if that TPS-signal is over a certain value and by some other factor (rpm, I think). The injection-ecu really don't need a potentiometer to work correctly, it only needs a signal when the throttle is closed (to pin 2) and a signal at WOT (to pin 3). And because I have replaced the EZ200K with Megasquirt, I don't need to know the basic duration because megasquirt uses MAP as an indication of air density, together with rpm. I can design the timing-map to whatever I want. Everything else but is still connected to the injection-ecu, like afm, ntc, etc. It's worth to note that replacing the potentiometer with a switch on a car with the original ignition-ecu would make it run like crap, so what I've done only works on cars that have replaced the ignition-ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 It's worth to note that replacing the potentiometer with a switch on a car with the original ignition-ecu would make it run like crap, so what I've done only works on cars that have replaced the ignition-ecu. I didn't get this one? Using potentiometer or this "switch" model is only related to system to be used? V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted December 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yes, it's only related to the system to be used. I just wanted to make clear that if you hook up a switch (black box) instead of the potentiometer on a N9TEA-engine that has the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) still operating, the engine would run bad. It would run as bad as if you simply disconnect the potentiometer. This solution is only for cars that have removed the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) and replaced it with something else, for example megasquirt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yes, it's only related to the system to be used. I just wanted to make clear that if you hook up a switch (black box) instead of the potentiometer on a N9TEA-engine that has the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) still operating, the engine would run bad. It would run as bad as if you simply disconnect the potentiometer. This solution is only for cars that have removed the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) and replaced it with something else, for example megasquirt. gotcha, thanks for spelling it out Johnny. sounds like your learning a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted December 8, 2006 Report Share Posted December 8, 2006 Yes, it's only related to the system to be used. I just wanted to make clear that if you hook up a switch (black box) instead of the potentiometer on a N9TEA-engine that has the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) still operating, the engine would run bad. It would run as bad as if you simply disconnect the potentiometer. This solution is only for cars that have removed the original ignition-ecu (EZ200K) and replaced it with something else, for example megasquirt. Ok, because it was so obviously, I didn't know it have to be sayed V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 Ok, because it was so obviously, I didn't know it have to be sayed V-M I just wanted to make it cristal-clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted December 9, 2006 Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 .m Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted January 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2007 I get sick of how some people run their companys.... I ordered 2 new cpu's from glensgarage.com before christmas, but when I got it he had sent me an incorrect cpu... He said that he would send me a correct one but apparently he forgot it and I had to email him 5 times (with no response) before he finally got his thumb out and sent it. I had already lost hope and ordered one from another company when it arrived yesterday...... Well well... It's alive again! Here is the problem! The idle is very high, about 1600rpm. I have tried to adjust the idle with the screw on the throttle body and the throttle-plate-screw, but it doesn't affect it much. The throttle-plate fully closed, and the idle-screw is turned all the way in.-->idle ~1500rpm, woho! Pinching the fast-idle hose doesn't make a difference. The engine also misfires slightly. (lean mixture?) Also, I think that the engine only ran at 3 cylinders before, One injector was disconnected, and it runs a bit smoother now (apart from the misfiring ). It's probably because of this that the idle is much higher now. I guess I have a leak somewhere past the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted February 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2007 I forgot to loosen the throttle-switch yesterday so it was holding the throttle open a bit. (Doh!) So now the idle is a bit lower. Pinching the aux-hose now makes a big difference, the idle drops about 300 rpm when pinching it, although the engine is warm. It has about 12v in the connector, so I guess the valve is broken? My biggest concern is that the engine runs unevenly. I think it could be ignition-related, but I'm not sure. When strobing the ignition "wanders" a bit at idle, but stabilises when I raise the rpm a bit. (I have locked the ignition to 10 degrees BTDC) Could this be the problem? I have also changed the sparkplugs so that was not the problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 there should be a 6mm nut on the back of the air aux valve. loosen that and close the door as much as possible, then try it again. not sure about the uneven running. most N9Txx's i've seen wander a bit at idle, but i'm not sure exactly how much yours is wandering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 Pinching the aux-hose now makes a big difference, the idle drops about 300 rpm when pinching it, although the engine is warm. It has about 12v in the connector, so I guess the valve is broken? Don't overlook the cheapest option. Changing out that hose. Mine looked perfect and didn't make any hissing sounds, but it still leaked. Any false air will kill any efforts to get a stable idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 N9TE your avatar is hilarious.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted February 2, 2007 Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 N9TE your avatar is hilarious.. Sooo 80's look http://www.eurodancehits.com/index.html V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted February 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2007 there should be a 6mm nut on the back of the air aux valve. loosen that and close the door as much as possible, then try it again. not sure about the uneven running. most N9Txx's i've seen wander a bit at idle, but i'm not sure exactly how much yours is wandering. That did the trick. I guess it's just to tweak it now so I get a little higher idle from the start. Don't overlook the cheapest option. Changing out that hose. Mine looked perfect and didn't make any hissing sounds, but it still leaked. Any false air will kill any efforts to get a stable idle. The hose is fine, I've sprayed some start-helper on it (and the rest of the intake) and it didn't affect the rpm--->no leaks. I always look for the cheapest option Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted February 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 6, 2007 I think I've found the fault that started all this now. One little path on the pcb was broken. (on the oem-ignitionbox) I'm sure it could be fixed, but I don't intend to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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