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1984 Peugeot 505 doors won't open


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Hello, I recently purchased a 1884 Peugeot 505 wagon from my neighbor who was it's original owner.. The only door that is operational is the drivers door. The rear passenger door handle feels like its sprung when you try and use it from the outside.. The other two doors just feel like they are locked on the outside but none seem to want to open from either the inside or the outside.. Has anyone experienced this problem with their 505's ?

I've also got a few other issues I could use help with. It. I can't seem to get the fan to blow when I use controls for Heat/AC and my brights don't seem to come on.. I haven't checked my fuses for these issues yet but if it comes to trouble shooting electrical issues I am completely inept.,

Thanks,

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Welcome to the forum!

Usually the lock assemblies in the door are the issue.  Lack of use, and lack of lubrication and they tend to seize up.

Sometimes working the lock /unlock many times is enough to get it to open, but I've also had luck spraying brakleen in from the window drip edge at the lock while actuating it.  Once open, remove the door panel to get the lock assembly out.  Finish cleaning it, then lube with graphite and reinstall.  Be very careful with the plastic as it will be brittle - especially with the heat that car has seen in AZ.

Electrical:  unsealed connectors, and corroded grounds will be 99% of your electrical issues.  There are two grounding trees on either side of the rad - clean those up for sure, as well as every connection you can find, then use an electrical anti corrosion spray/dielectric grease on them to protect them after.

What engine / transmission does it have?  Looks well kept and completely rust free which is always nice

Rabin

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It's probably an XN6 engine.  Nice car, I have one.

The door panels come off with two big screws located on the armrests (there are hole there, and use a big phillips).  Then the regular phillips head under the door pull. Then gently pull the trim piece (gently prising) off where the handle meets the door).  Snap On (among others) makes a tool for prising the nylon retainers (usually you can just jiggle those off).  They call it a door panel tool.  It comes in handy on the other nylon trim pieces elsewhere on the car.  Without it, it is super easy to break those little buggers.

When I do mine, I go in with PB Blaster first, then some sort of grease that has character like lithium spray tube.  I haven't used the graphite, but I may in the future, as it makes sense.

Yup, lube it up after removing the vapor shield.  I use a heat gun to soften the glue on the vapor shield, then gently peel away.  I try to retain it the best I can, and will use tape on reassembly where it won't cooperate.

The no high beams is a common.  The only fix I know of is to replace the switch.  Miles at westernhemispheres had new ones a couple of years ago.  Used one are out there.  Check the vendor section if need be.  That switch is a marvel to behold, as it does so many things.  I once tried taking one apart.  I got it apart all right, but I quickly forgot about putting it back together.  French ingenuity.

One last note, while you are in there, look around for some god-awful hard pieces at the bottoms of the inner door.  Discard any that you find.  They are well intentioned something or other that have become rattlers by now.

-Bill

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10 hours ago, bill said:

One last note, while you are in there, look around for some god-awful hard pieces at the bottoms of the inner door.  Discard any that you find.  They are well intentioned something or other that have become rattlers by now.

THIS. these hard pieces are the desiccated remains of sheets of sound-deadening material that has dried out, hardened and broken off over the years. it serves no function except to make noise. get rid of it. if you want to replace it, use dynamat or something similar.

andré

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