Dr._of_Puganomics Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Hi all, Prospective Pug buyer here. I am going to look at a 1986 505 Turbo manual some time this weekend. It's a Canadian-market car with 240,240km/150,000mi on the odometer. However, the owner says the speedometer cable failed, and then the transmission got stuck in third gear. The shifter moves freely and the linkage appears to be OK, so he believes the problem is internal. I have located a nearby 505 Turbodiesel 5-speed and Michel Aube says he can get me the speedo cables. However, Michel says the input shaft my differ between the gasoline and diesel BA10/5 transmissions. Can anyone here confirm that? Also, I've read that some Jeep YJ Wranglers used the same BA10/5 transmission as the Peugeots, albeit with different gearing. Aside from the different gears, would it be possible to use the Jeep transmission for spare parts for the Peugeot transmission (i.e. shift forks)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 23, 2013 Report Share Posted July 23, 2013 Welcome to the forum! This should shed light on the 3rd gear issue possibly: http://teamlemon.blogspot.com/2009/10/garbled-transmissions-part-un.html http://teamlemon.blogspot.com/2009/11/garbled-transmissions-part-deux.html http://teamlemon.blogspot.com/2009/11/garbled-transmissions-part-trois.htm Can't really help with the BA10 tranny, but I'm almost positive that the main difference between all the versions is the input shaft and how it engages the flywheel, and it the Jeep's case the tail shaft housing. All other aspects betweed the transmissions should be the same - IE the Jeep BA10 rebuild kit/bearings work. The BA10 clutch disk in the V6 and turbo are the same, so I'd assume the TD is the same disk as well. (Same spline size / tooth count) Posting on the Yahoo group Peugeot-L or contacting Brian Holm direct should be your best bet for confirmation as Brian is a fountain of info. Good luck and keep us posted on progress. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr._of_Puganomics Posted July 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Thanks for the info! I spoke with Brian, who said the output shaft does differ between the Turbo and diesel models. He has some spares on hand at his place which is about 3 1/2 hours away from where I live. Now I need to see the car and determine if it is worth driving all that way for a transmission. I also have to figure out if a transmission will fit in the trunk of my Mustang! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 25, 2013 Report Share Posted July 25, 2013 Transmission is pretty tiny, and quite light as far as transmissions go... Should easily fit in the trunk. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr._of_Puganomics Posted July 27, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2013 Cool. The S197-chassis Mustang isn't exactly known for its spacious trunk capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian Holm - Parts for Peugeots Posted July 27, 2013 Report Share Posted July 27, 2013 It's not expensive to ship it to CT. It's the input shaft not the output that's different between TD and TG. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrethx Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Dr. -- welcome! brian is great to deal with and a fountain of peugeot information; i always learn a lot when i talk to him. i bought a 505 dash from him a while back and he shipped it to me in california; it wasn't expensive and it was well-packaged, made the trip great. if you decide to go to vermont and pick up the transmission from him yourself, please bring a camera. it would be fun to see what brian's place looks like! andré Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 28, 2013 Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 brian is great to deal with and a fountain of Peugeot information; i always learn a lot when i talk to him. I'll second that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr._of_Puganomics Posted July 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2013 Here's the car I'm looking at. The seller is asking $700. It runs pretty strong, handles nicely, comes with a block heater, and had anti-rust oil treatment applied. There are some things that need attention. -Needs a good vacuuming! -The transmission is stuck in third. The shifter moves into neutral, 2nd, 4th, and reverse, but the car stays in third. -A/C pump is loose because it is missing a bolt. -The car may need a head gasket replacement. After driving it I notices some milkyness on the underside of the oil fill cap. Owner says he does not notice any oil consumption, nor did I see any smoking. The coolant in the overflow bottle looks OK (no bubbling or milkyness). -The speedo cable is broken. Odo is stuck at 240k km (car came from New Brunswick). Owner estimates he put another 2k-3k miles since that broke.-Seller recently replaced one of the fuel pumps with a Bosch unit, but for some reason it's noisy. -The fuel gauge flutters during acceleration. I'm not sure the stock oil and water temperature gauges are working either. -Stalk-mounted horn doesn't work. Owner jury-rigged a horn button. -Some rust starting to form on right side rocker panel at the rear fender... ...under the lip of the trunk... ...and just under the front passenger's door. -There's also some painted over spots on the hood and rear right fender. There's no body filler as far as I can tell though. -Some bubbling on front right alloy. -Grille is loose. -Sunroof liner missing. Needs help when opening and closing. It doesn't leak, however, which is good since I rarely use the sunroof on my cars anyways. -No fog lights or lower Turbo air dam. Were these optional on the '86s? So, it's scruffy but not a total rustbucket. My big concern is the possibility that it needs a new head gasket. I can handle the transmission swap and fuel pump myself, but I would need a shop or helping hand to tackle the head gasket. No matter what, it has to be ready for winter time. So, what sayeth the 505Turbo.com commentariat? Worth the $700 and some elbow grease, or leave it alone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 You are absolutely sure the long (fore and aft) shift linkage is OK? If the car has been sitting a while, the milkiness could be from condensation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 29, 2013 Report Share Posted July 29, 2013 Oil cap is just showing condensation, a nice long drive where the car can get to temp and that should disappear. I get it much worse on my car, but I have a short commute. On the recent trip to PPIHC it was perfect. As long as your oil doesn't turn into a milkshake you should be fine. These cars seem to have a poor PCV system as well, which is why I hope the Provent 200 helps with this. Rust isn't bad for the East coast rust belt,, but it is rust. I'd be very wary as the salt air alone can be highly corrosive even if the car was never winter driven. Ideally if you have the resourses to get a car from the West coast or a Southern dry car - you would be much farther ahead. Paint and body cost WAY more than mechanical, so I prefer rust free over anything else. (Koll has a nice 505 Turbo in Seattle for $1k needing a HG - get it repaired there and then fly in / drive back) This does look salvageable though, and the tranny is fairly easy to swap out. Valve cover gasket is making a mess, but doing valve adjust is a good excuse to change it out. #1 rule is to buy they absolute best car you can afford... If you can only afford the $700 then you might want to rethink 505 Turbo ownership as it can get expensive quickly if the car has been neglected. If the car is decent and well maintained and you can afford to fix things as they are needed then it might be fine... Air dam was not optional on the turbo cars, but it just covered up the existing set up. Same deal with the fog lights - they're easily removed when smashed, but the wiring should be there If you want to replace them. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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