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Bad news!

I brought my 1986 turbo to my mechanic to fix a temperamental signal light (bad grounds, all fixed now), to diagnose a loose shift stick and a very slight coolant leak. I was hoping the coolant leak would be the lower radiator hose but unfortunately it's the water pump!

I was wondering if anyone knew where to find them and at what price as of may 2013. I know they are rebuildable, but that means not driving the car for a month waiting for the pump to come back!

I know this has been discussed before but parts availability changes fast, what was available 6 months ago might not be available now!

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No idea on current stocking levels - but the last e-bay hope died when they're 10 on hand evaporated to not even carrying the pumps.

All I could offer is to provide you a core to get rebuilt, that way when it comes you coulds simply install it with a new gasket and be done. I also have a still in progress project to insert the guts of a 205 1.6L pump into the N9T housing like the Matra guys do, but it would necessitate losing the electro magnetic fan and doing an electric fan set up. Pully might also be an issue - so it's not a sorted out solution yet.

Rabin

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  • 6 months later...

Could someone relay the contact info for G & A?

Also a dumb question, but where is the ID for the "N9T" and "ZN3J" that gets referenced? I would like to confirm what I have in my '87 505 STX V6. It seems to make a big difference in parts prices from other 505's.

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Mike Aube

www.gaauto.ca

G & A Auto

12343 County RD 18

PO BX 37

Williamsburg, Ontario

Canada, K0C 2H0

maube at idirect.com

Engine codes: No need to find them as the code is the engine. Injected V6 is the ZN3J, 505 turbo's are all N9T engines, intercooled 86+ cars have an E added, and ECU controlled boost in later cars have an A added.

The engine code to avoid for you is the inline 4 non turbo 2.2L (2165cc) SOHC engine which has the engine code ZDJK which looks similar to the V6 one.

Rabin

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Timing chain's can be noisy, and since it's right behind the WP, it might sound worst than it is. A better check might be to remove the belt and check the rotation by hand to make sure it's nice and smooth.

If it is smooth, one thing to consider is losing the mechanical magnetic assembly and going to an electric fan set up. The magnetic clutch and the fan itself is considerable load on the WP, and if it was reduced it would extend the life of the pump considerably.

Rabin

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Well, several years ago my magnetic fan failed and I found a Volvo "mechanical" clutch and put it on. Maybe that was a mistake and it could be stressing the pump bearings?? It really does roar when it kicks in. I was not aware of the sources for parts back then so maybe now I should put the right part back on or go electric like you say. I am going to claim ignorance about the timing chain, that sounds like I should know what I am doing! (although I know it can ruin the engine if neglected)

I feel like the Volvo clutch really robs power or maybe it is just the mental effect of the roar. Any lead on electric that will fit correctly?

Thanks, Mitch.

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I've used a 14" electric fan, but a better solutions would to find an OEM shroud set up off another car to see if it works. I've actually eyed up the one off an 850 Volvo, and it looks the same as the x70 ones as well - the issue will be if it fits. When I did the electric fan conversion on my car I removed as much material from the magnetic clutch assemble as possible with hand tools so that it was as light as possible. When I do the next car I'll have my machinist buddy mount it up on his lathe and really take the weight off, as well as get me maximum clearance to the rad.

I'm not entirely sure how you got the Volvo clutch fan on there - so if you can take pics that would be great. As for longevity - I remember discussing waterpump longevity with a mechanic and he mentioned that water pumps would last so much longer in cars if we didn't hang all that weight off the shaft... Bearings will likely last as long as the engine if would could keep the seals intact for that long. (Or replace seals and repack bearings as part of maintenance.) That made sense to me, as well as how much better the electric fans work as they only work when needed.

As for wiring - I used the wire that powers the magnetic fan for the electric fan and it worked perfectly with the existing rad temp sensor set up. One word of caution with these cars is to fuse the power wires in the fan circuit. If they short - they'll burn down the harness for quite a ways.

Rabin

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I think Brian Holm told me which series Volvo fan would fit?? I will take a pic but I just had to barely enlarge the bolt holes on the Volvo fan/clutch and they mated right up with the threaded holes in the pulley. I really want to go electric if I can find one that fits, and thanks for the fuse warning. I still have my old magnetic Peugeot fan clutch, I suppose there is no hope for that one once it starts to spin freely and never engage? Back when I converted it I really had no idea of how to check it out.

I have the car back on the road thanks to some parts from Madhu, and the water pump is not making noise now so I will hope for the best. -Mitch

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The magnetic clutch fan is actually quite ingenious, and the only issue with them is the carbon brush that usually wears out and the fan stops working. There's a brass ring next to the pump housing and if its not shiny, the brush needs replacing.

12v applied to the ring should engage the clutch with the housing grounded.

My only beef with them is their weight on the pump shaft.

Rabin

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you are on the full version of the site - the reply box has the option to attach pictures from your computer.

Only the V6 cars and the later diesels had the fans with the finned alloy centres. N9T** and Xn6 engines used magnetic clutch fans.

Rabin

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For some reason I thought you had a 505 Turbo Mitch - your STX has a viscous fan with the finned ally centres.

Ikenna posted some pics of his 505 V6 in Nigeria with electric fans from a Toyota.

Rabin

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