mharvey

Thanks for the info, I cannot yet tell which relay I am checking. I think its the fuel pump relay, are you familiar with the two relay locations? I hope its safe enough to hook up a new pump that just arrived and hope I really do not have an electrical problem. Only guess would be a bad pump has damaged a relay if an electrical issue is there. Thanks again.

Working with my '87 505 STX today after sitting several months and discovered the fuel pump under the vehicle in front of the driver rear wheel is not running. I also could not read any voltage on the wires. The fuse behind the change box is good, and the relay in front of the passenger side firewall is clicking when turning the ignition switch on and off but I did not have time to check anything else. Any ideas as to why I would not have power at the pump?? I plan to supply direct power with the switch off to make sure the pump works but then need to find the problem in the vehicle. Thanks for any suggestions.

Thanks for the help. It worked! It seems to be running fine now.

Thanks! I'll check it out.

In my '87 505 v6, the idle has jumped up to around 1500 rpm after idling fine for years. This is the first time its ever happened. If I rev the engine and then release the pedal, the idle will momentarily return to normal then jump back up to 1500. This is with a warm engine and no warning light. It has been cold here lately. I have removed the idle speed stabilizer and cleaned it, but I haven't put it back on yet. Does anyone have any ideas on how to test this component before I reinstall it? Thanks, Mitch

Any ideas for getting more life from the dash buttons. My '87 505 STX has all the buttons hanging out because when you push them once, they get stuck in the on position. Flashers, seat warmers, ect. They sometimes reset if I pull out hard on the button face. I have tried electronics cleaner and drylube but they still stick after some time. Thanks, Mitch.

Well it appears I cannot load pictures yet. I am not sure I have a magnetic clutch, was there another type? I see no brass ring nor an electrical connection anywhere. - Mitch

I think Brian Holm told me which series Volvo fan would fit?? I will take a pic but I just had to barely enlarge the bolt holes on the Volvo fan/clutch and they mated right up with the threaded holes in the pulley. I really want to go electric if I can find one that fits, and thanks for the fuse warning. I still have my old magnetic Peugeot fan clutch, I suppose there is no hope for that one once it starts to spin freely and never engage? Back when I converted it I really had no idea of how to check it out. I have the car back on the road thanks to some parts from Madhu, and the water pump is not making noise now so I will hope for the best. -Mitch

Bill you have me thinking, maybe I could remove the gasket and wrap some thin rubber on first, then push mine back on. That should keep it in place to open and close. I am thinking without looking first if that would work.

OK, I would be interested although mine is still one piece and looks good, it must have shrunk. I bet you could start an auction for a new gasket if you still have it. I really have not tried yet to find one. Thanks, Mitch.

Well, several years ago my magnetic fan failed and I found a Volvo "mechanical" clutch and put it on. Maybe that was a mistake and it could be stressing the pump bearings?? It really does roar when it kicks in. I was not aware of the sources for parts back then so maybe now I should put the right part back on or go electric like you say. I am going to claim ignorance about the timing chain, that sounds like I should know what I am doing! (although I know it can ruin the engine if neglected) I feel like the Volvo clutch really robs power or maybe it is just the mental effect of the roar. Any lead on electric that will fit correctly? Thanks, Mitch.

Does anyone else have a sunroof gasket that leaks air, very annoying noise!. Any fixes? I once saw a rubber restoration product that would swell and restore rubber to a newer condition but it was expensive and I did not think it would last after more exposure to the elements. I also have a broken cable or something, I just operate mine manually with the interior cover removed. Any replacement gaskets out there? I have tried adjusting the sunroof brackets to push forward a little harder but I must not be doing the right thing. -Mitch

Thanks for the info, I am listening to my water pump to see if it was just unhappy one morning or if it is actually on the way out. No leak, just noise. -Mitch

Could someone relay the contact info for G & A? Also a dumb question, but where is the ID for the "N9T" and "ZN3J" that gets referenced? I would like to confirm what I have in my '87 505 STX V6. It seems to make a big difference in parts prices from other 505's.

Thanks again to all. I am trying the sources now. By the way, some of you may have worked at dealerships back in the day, but I do have a "Peugeot Master Mechanic" just 10 miles down the road. There are only a few working vehicles still in the area so he is not so interested any more in keeping and finding parts. He was a great source for years but now I just try and work through issues myself, but I can rely on him for major repairs if I can find the parts.

Have not gone into tail lights yet, but I plan on copying what was done in the photo instead of an LED changout. The car is all original and fairly complete with around 160,000 miles on it. Well, it is missing console buttons that quit some years back, has a cracked dash, ect.....but after I opted for an new paint job several years ago I have to recoup that investment and therefore am trying to keep it rolling. NO RUST, thank you South Carolina! I slowly eliminate parts as they fail but so far nothing major. I think of it as a weight loss program staying lean and mean! This group may encourage me to step up to the next level and actually get some things working again. Thanks for the info and the interest. -Harvey

Back to the two shift rods and bushings replaced, where did you source these parts? I like the fixes suggested, but I also like the new parts if available. Thanks!

I like that idea, I suppose you would drill out the rivet holding the socket to the board and bolt the socket down with wire attached, for both ground and positive. That does not look exactly like what they did by looking at the wires, but I think I can figure it out. I have not taken mine out to look at it closely, at the moment they are working and I am afraid to touch them!

Has anyone converted the inner workings of the tail lights to LED and done away with the circuit board? My housings are in good shape but it is a battle to keep all the lights burning. If not LED, will they be reliable if I attach each wire to its path on the board, and how is the best way to do that?? I am not that handy with solder but I think I can pull off some mechanical connection but they are so small. Thanks, Harvey