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505 TI -85 project


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Here is my Peugeot. The picture is from -05. It's a -85 turbo, with n9te and manual transmission.

I bought the car on summer -03. It cost me 400€. :) The car had both rear trailing arms corroded away, and severe rust holes on the rear side of the car. The engine and all the electric gizmos were working fine.

With a little help from my dad, I welded those holes. I bought new trailing arms and also repaired the rear brake saddles and installed a new pair of discs. Dad made a nice fuel pump holder from stainless steel, the old one was hopelessly corroded. Some other minor repairs were made and on spring -05, I got the car in driveable shape! :)

Unfortunately, a drunk driver hit me just in the beginning of the summer -05. Some pictures of the sad shape. Luckily, I got some good money from the insurance company, so I started repairing the car. While the car was undriveable, I decided to get rid of the stock exhaust manifold, turbo and ic. The stock turbo's bearings were dead already.

So I starded to fabricate a new exhaust manifold, from 304 stainless steel.

Right now, the front end of the car looks like this. The turbocharger is a KKK 3ldz from a Porche 911 Turbo. I also got a little bigger core for a new fmic.

The ex. manifold needs some adjustment, because now the turbo is too high, the hood won't close... :) I'll try to get the car running before next summer. At first I'll use the stock LE-jet, but I am planning on switching to megasquirt at some point. The engine receives a treatment also, estimatedly late summer/next autumn. After that it's time to up the boost... :P

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That looks great!

Do you think you'd ever look at just putting in a hood scoop or a "power bulge" into the hood instead of altering the manifold?

Once you go to a MAF ECU - the turbo could then be fed through a large NACA duct in the hood or something since it wouldn't have to be going through the VAF.

It wouldn't be too stealthy - but it would get you the best air supply.

Rabin

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I don't want to cut the hood unless it's absolutely necessary. It's hard to make the bulge pretty enough... :) Well, the visual things are not my primary concern, but I'd like to maintain the "stealty" look. :)

I've been thinking about making a hole from the engine bay to the right front wing. Some cars have this feature. And possibly making holes to the right wing panel also. So I could make a box for the yet-to-come cone filter, and direct cold air for it from the hole.

Could you clarify the NACA and VAF, I didn't quite get those... :P

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very nice! what made you go with the KKK 911 turbo? what kind of 'power' are you shooting for?

what about fuel? what injectors + pressure regulator are you planning on running?

too bad about the height of the turbo, i'd imagine if you put a bulge in the hood, you'd have to use some good insulation cuz its gotta be tough on the paint!

why did you decide to route the manifold high rather then low, like some of the 505 race cars? i guess the manifold is easier to run out and straight up, rather then doing some zig-zag's to a lower mounted turbo eh? (maybe i just answered my own question :P)

sorry to hear about the drunk driver too, that sucks!

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I got the turbo cheaply, so I chose it... :) I want to at least double the horsepower (that would be 320hp) even more, maybe 400 if I'm lucky. I'll be using ron 98 unleaded, which is widely available in Finland.

I've been thinking of injectors something like 500cc/min, that's about the maximum which I've heard that megasquirt can control so that idling is fine. Maybe second round of injectors if those aren't enough. For pressure regulator I've been planning to use a AM-Works (finnish manufacturer) adjustable cap for the standard bosch unit. I think V-M has one, and it has been working fine.

I did the manifold as it is because a) it was easy to fabricate :P changing of the turbocharger is easy, if I decide to get smaller or otherwise different. I will propably make some heatshield for the exhaust housing.

The reason I think the racing cars have the turbo mounted low, is the weight distribution. To me it's not so great concern, compared to the layout of the engine compartment.

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  • 1 month later...

Modified the ex.manifold, and now the hood can be closed normally :D I also bought an wideband-lambda/egt meter from www.vems.hu. It should make the mapping a lot easier.

There is some work to do with the wastegate positioning and flanges. I have also aquired some 3" stainless pipe for downpipe. I need a new coolant pump, so I can plan how to fit radiator and the electric fan to the engine compartment. I have to fabricate/aquire a new v-belt pulley for the pump, because the old one is wasted.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Modified the manifold, so that the wg bolts to the opposite side. Here's the engine bay. Should have the manifold finished in near future. Also aquired the coolant pump. A brand new item... <3 ;) Have been considering different strategies to get cool air to the filter.

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The whole exhaust system will be replaced. I'll be making it from 3" stainless, exept if I decide to go over the rear axle, where it has to be slightly smaller diameter pipe.

The exit from the side would be a lot easier to make, but I don't know yet. It may look ridiculous... :P

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  • 3 months later...

Very slow progress. By the time I'm writing this, hopefully my new pulley for the water pump is ready. Last weekend I mounted the new IC. Few other pics of the IC: 1, 2

In the future, I may be replacing that with a bigger one, but I got this for a very reasonable price and It's top quality finnish hand-made product. :)

I also ditched the side-exhaust plans, instead I bought this. Also priced very reasonably, and made from titanium. B) Weighs only about 2kg!

As for the air intake, I did some cutting there.

I think I'm finished with welding the bodywork for now. I also have all bodywork parts except for the right headlamp. And that's only because the post service screwed up and broke one which I bought from V-M. :)

Maybe I'll put a regular 505 lamp there until I find a turbo one.

E: I just received the pulley. It looks absolutely beautiful! B) I post some pics as soon as I get my camera here at the garage.

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  • 3 months later...

Oh my, time really flies! :) Well, Here are some pictures of the pulley my father made for me.

I'm going to NC-machine more pulleys, Here is a 3d-model of it. The 4 holes will have threads to aid fitting and removing the pulley. These should be out before the end of the year.

I will also install a bigger chinese intercooler. The one I had before, went to another project.

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Oh my, time really flies! B) Well, Here are some pictures of the pulley my father made for me.

I'm going to NC-machine more pulleys, Here is a 3d-model of it. The 4 holes will have threads to aid fitting and removing the pulley. These should be out before the end of the year.

I will also install a bigger chinese intercooler. The one I had before, went to another project.

looks really nice Crossfire! what material is it made out of? is it heavy? would you want to make some to sell? :)

Looks nice!

But why have you made a new pulley?

And what are those 3 "steps" on the pulley used for? They are not present in the nc-version.

Just curious :)

you can pull part of the electromagnetic clutch apart, but it looks like he needed that extra clearance (that's my guess) :)

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Yeah, I can that you get extra clearance by removing the electromagnetic fan and installing an electric one, but I don't understand why those "steps" aren't machined away if the electromagnetic fan isn't used anyway.

Maybe I got something wrong? :D

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Yeah, I can that you get extra clearance by removing the electromagnetic fan and installing an electric one, but I don't understand why those "steps" aren't machined away if the electromagnetic fan isn't used anyway.

Maybe I got something wrong? :D

Yes I needed the extra clearance, and the original pulley was wasted in the accident. There are "steps" in the pulley design, because the engine side of the pulley must be hollow and large enough so that the water pump will fit inside. On the other hand, the part that fixes the pulley to the waterpump axle must be a bit sturdy, because it's attached by "squeezing" the pulley over the axle.

The nc-version is an "evolution" of the manually machined prototype, which I will use in my car. The basic structure is identical, but more material is left so the threaded holes can be made.

The pulleys will be made from steel, S355 or Fe52 here in Finland, dunno the AISI number. I will make some of those for sale, 6 has been ordered already. Maybe I will make even more for you U.S. guys if you are interested?

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

nice!

The chinese intercooler looks alright! :P did you have to cut away much of the vertical supports on each side of the radiator for FMIC tubing clearance?

No cutting needed at all. Actually, there are "slots" in the vertical supports which seem to be "made" for FMIC tubes. :D If you tilt the radiator backwards two inches or so, there is good clearance for 2.5" tubing.

In this picture you can see the slot, at the driver's side. It's factory made.

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