Bean Posted July 13, 2012 Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Did you happen to calculate fuel economy? Glad you had an uneventful trip, and thanks for sharing it. I thought it was cool how your Mom was a repeat Peugeot owner and that your car has some great sentimental value for both you and your Mom. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 Did you happen to calculate fuel economy? Rabin I wrote down the info but didn't calculate it yet, and I haven't filled up since I got back to make a final calculation. I don't get the feeling that I'm getting the mileage I would expect. I think I may be just shy of 30mpg and I think I should be a little better than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2012 I wrote down the info but didn't calculate it yet, and I haven't filled up since I got back to make a final calculation. I don't get the feeling that I'm getting the mileage I would expect. I think I may be just shy of 30mpg and I think I should be a little better than that. It comes out as: I filled up today. My last tank of fuel, which would have been almost all highway, I got 31.3 mpg Over the last 1,000 miles, which would have been about 3/4 highway, I got 28 mpg On the trip to and from NH I generally drove about 70mph on the highway. On the way up I took about a 100 mile detour of non highway travel to visit a family cemetery plot in Connecticut. On the way back I was on the Interstate highways all but a couple of miles at each end. I used cruse control about 30% of the time. Since my AC does not work, I had some windows open at all times. I took the bike rack off the roof just before leaving for NH but the cross bars were still on. I opened the sunroof only a few times. I probably have 150lbs of tools and parts in the trunk. The belt on the AC compressor has been removed, but the compressor is present. Note to self: I gotta look at the AC some time soon. A few days before I left, we had 100o F temperatures, but this week has been fairly comfortable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 15, 2012 Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 My 86 XD3T wagon got 34.6 mpg on it's maiden and only trip when I purchased it. This was with a loose injection pump, and crap tires. Windows closed, no boost, and the transmission downshift cable not set up so it was upshifting to 4th almost immediately once moving. I've since set up the throttle linkage and the transmission kick down - but still awaiting parts before I tackle a complete tune up and refresh of the engine compartment. I drove the car around for 8 days earlier this summer and it was actually pretty perky power wise, but that new found power meant that the economy took a hit. Not bad, but not as frugal as it was when it wasn't set up to make any power. Once I get it all tuned up though - I'm hoping I can improve on that 34.6 mpg a bit, but even if it stays there I'll be happy. It's a gigantic car inside with THE smoothest ride I've ever had in a car. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Today I changed the oil in the gearbox. I can’t remember the last time I did it, so it’s been a long time. It looked in good condition and the level wasn’t down a bit, so I’m always glad to see something not require more work. I went with Rabin’s recommendation and used Redline 75W90NS. I don’t notice any change. It drove and shifted OK before, and it still does. My primary goal was to give the transmission the best protection I could. It worries me that the 10w40 motor oil originally recommended, has different additive formulations today than it did in 1985. That worry may be unfounded but I worry anyway. I think I’m OK with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 If your transmission shifted well, then there really isn't much to improve on - but the added protection of the synthetic is well worth it. When I did my 505 STI (BA7/5) with the NS there was no change at first, but as we did more and more events it just seemed to get better and better. I had two non-Peugeot friends sharing the car and both attested to it being the slickest shifting car they'd ever driven. It wasn't like that before the NS, but such a nice tranny. I'm hoping to swap that same slick shifting transmission into my 504 when I do the clutch on it - just need to source a clutch kit for it now. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 If your transmission shifted well, then there really isn't much to improve on - but the added protection of the synthetic is well worth it. When I did my 505 STI (BA7/5) with the NS there was no change at first, but as we did more and more events it just seemed to get better and better. I had two non-Peugeot friends sharing the car and both attested to it being the slickest shifting car they'd ever driven. It wasn't like that before the NS, but such a nice tranny. I'm hoping to swap that same slick shifting transmission into my 504 when I do the clutch on it - just need to source a clutch kit for it now. Rabin Well I wouldn't say it was the "slickest shifting car I've ever driven", but it worked OK before and it seems the same now. The protection is what I was after. If it gets slicker as I drive, so much the better. I forget where I got my clutch a few months ago. It was either Madhu or Western Hemispheres. I recall Rock Auto had two different kits but could not tell me much about the difference and they were both in a European warehouse so shipping was going to be significant. I don't think I was able to get it as a kit but did get it as individual parts. I think I saw the clutch on eBay but decided it was worth a little more to get it all from one supplier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ohms Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 i have euros on mine, and never had a second glance at inspection time - but i get nys inspection, not jersey....but really, im confident no one cares heh. my pug is for sale btw, $1500...theres a post in the "for sale" section...maybe consider it a $1500 pair of euro lights, with a 505 still attached =) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2012 I've been whittling down the parts that don’t work in the HVAC system. At this rate I’ll have my Air Conditioning working in plenty of time for Christmas. Among other things I needed to replace the blower motor. Last week I got a used one in good condition from Brian Holm. Today I cleaned it up and got it in. So now I have fresh air blowing for the first time in a long while. In preparation for the new blower I started trying to remove the old one, about a week ago. I had to remove about 8 clips that held it in place. I was easily able to remove most of them but I couldn’t get the last two on the bottom. I could get my fingers on them but I couldn’t pop them off. There wasn’t enough room to get a tool in position to pry at them. I emailed Brian and asked if there was a trick to it. He replied: “Those lower clips are tough. I have many broken housings because my henchmen just ripped them off when they couldn't get the clips off. I have a very small angled prybar that helps. Getting them back on is no picnic either.” I tried a bicycle tire iron, several small screwdrivers and an assortment of coins to no avail. After trying for an hour or so at a time several times over the past week, I had a thought today and I used a nail. Putting the point into the little hole in the tab made it easy to get the last two clips off. I had tried a similar maneuver with a small philips head screw driver but the handle was just a little too long to get in the required position. So far I’ve only gotten 6 of them back on but that’s enough to hold it, for now, until I find the secret tool to get the last 2 back on. The resistor that is supposed to run the auxiliary cooling fan at low speed whenever the AC is on, was broken in several pieces. Brian had a new one of those and I put that in today. Now the electric fan works properly. I got the AC high pressure switch from Madhu and put that in last week so now I’m about ready to put the belt back on the AC compressor, get it charged up, see if anything leaks, and maybe it’ll get cold. Or maybe I’ll find more that needs doing, but at last I think I can see light at the end of that tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Yesterday I got caught in a flash flood and sucked water into the engine, which is now seized. With all the injectors removed it can’t be turned with a breaker bar. It was fresh water, not the salt water that is next to my house, and it didn’t get up over the doors so I think I have nothing to worry about the electrical system or other parts other than the engine. Does anyone have an XD3T engine in good working order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I have an '85 with a rusted body but a solid frame and leak free XD3T + 3 speed auto. The odometer says 37,000, but I know that has to be suspect. Still, it's the only XD3T I've seen with its original injector #2 (the one with the sensor attached) that doesn't leak fuel, and the car still has remnants of the sound proofing bellypan underneath. I drive the car occasionally; it's just a beater, though I take care of it mechanically. If you're interested in purchasing the entire car for the motor and any spares you can get from it, I'd sell it. Let me know. I live in NC. Coincidentally, the car came from your neck of the woods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I have an '85 with a rusted body but a solid frame and leak free XD3T + 3 speed auto. Do you, or anyone else, have any idea of what issues I would face with the engine from an auto going to my 5sp. Would I need to replace the flywheel or would something else not mate up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 The 5 speed's flywheel will have to be installed in place of the automatic's flex plate. They bolt to the end of the crankshaft in the same way. The starters might also be different, but I'm not positive. Other than that, I don't think there are any differences. The blocks are of course identical, and I think even the exhaust downpipe from the turbocharger is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 When I get home I'll snap some pics of the car and especially the engine/underneath if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I'm assuming the crank has the pilot bearing for the manual transmision input shaft like the gas motors use - but not sure. If so - you'd have to put one in on the engine from the auto. Should bolt in otherwise and you essentially have a great parts car to boot. Sucks that you'd get out of the diesel Joe - but such is life. The side benefit is that you could adopt crackie or blackie instead. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 I'd like to free up some space for one of Jonathan's cars as a project. I had a 1990 Prelude parts car to accompany my 1990 Prelude track/DD car, and I recently had to sell it due to space around the apartment. That car is going to a good cause though (a ChumpCar team). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Sorry for the off-topic David - but having Joe getting a 505 turbo to replace the diesel is pretty damn epic. Back on topic - getting a low mile XD3T to replace your hydro-locked / siezed one would be great. The XD2S is a great motor as well, but the XD3T did have a few improvements that I think are worthwhile. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Hey Dave, Here's an album of pictures. I also sent you a PM. Let me know if you're interested at all. http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/junktionfet/Peugeot/ Password: peugeot (lower case) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Holy smokes... That's heart of the rust belt rusty... Definitely a great powertrain donor however, with the plus of the 15" alloys and some other goodies. Engine coolant tank really shows how low miles it has - it looks pretty new compared to mine. lol Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I had a nice talk with Brian Holm yesterday. He seemed a little skeptical that I would have a bent connecting rod, and that, if I did, that would completely seize up the engine. He didn't say it was impossible, but had never seen that happen. He suggested that I further investigate what's stopping the engine from turning before pronouncing it dead. I also ran the donor cars that I was considering by him, and he thought JunktionFET's sounded like my best bet. North Carolina to New Jersey is not a trivial drive, but it's doable, and it sounds like the car could make the trip under it's own steam. I hope to get the car home today and see what I can find out. At the least I want to get the water out of those cylinders and get them lubricated so I preserve whatever isn't already broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 I'd try pulling injectors and glow plugs and then leave it in 3rd or 4th, then rock the car back and forth to see if you can get the drivetrain to turn the motor. If it does - then try the starter to see if it will crank over. I mentioned via e-mail that I used WD40 to flush out the cylinders while cranking on a Ford 302 that hydrolocked, but for your car I'd likely just use a little diesel and some methyl hydrate to aborb the water. Crank it over with injectors and glows removed and it'll blow all of it out if the cylinders. The 302 vapourized / fine misted the WD40 when it came out so it wasn't even that messy. My current 504 had seized the motor shortly after I got it, and it remained parked for years before I installed the current euro XN1 into it. When I did the post-mortem on the engine the thrust washer halves on the crank and bound up and stopped the crank. It would have been pretty easy to fix had I actually pulled the pan off and actually found what stopped the motor. (It was idling in the morning and then abruptly stopped with a "ka-chunk" - engaging the starter or trying to turn the crank told me it was siezed.) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 I had the car towed home today. After it was towed away from the scene of the flood I took most of my tools from the trunk and put them in the trunk of my wife's car so I couldn't do much of anything but since the the injectors were already out I did spray some WD40 in there and I plugged in the block heater. Next I'll take out the glow plugs and assuming that doesn't shed any light on things I'll take off the valve cover, check the push rods, and see if I see anything else amiss in there. Then I guess I'll pull the head and timing cover and finally maybe drop the oil pan. If I don't find something by then I guess I'll have to give up on it. At that point I guess I'm going to get Joe's car. That will be nearly 500 miles to drive it back here so that should be a good shakedown to validate the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 FWIW - Any car that has been mechanically maintained / tuned by Joe I wouldn't hesitate to take across country! Heck - I drove my 86' TD wagon sight unseen 500 miles home when I bought it and it was a basket case. The injection pump was completely loose, downshift cable unhooked (upshifted to 4th immediately essentially), and it still drove home and got 6.8L/100km. I think that's why I like TD's so much now. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tulaweb Posted August 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 Took out the glow plugs took off the valve cover and removed the rocker arm removed the push rods Nothing out of the ordinary Engine still won't turn Removed the air filter housing Pumped about a quart of water out of the intake to the turbo Engine still won't turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JunktionFET Posted August 31, 2012 Report Share Posted August 31, 2012 If there was that much water in the inlet to the turbo, my guess is that the engine took in quite a gulp I bet if you yanked the head (which you should anyway to save it), you'd see the pistons not quite lining up as they should. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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