Guest broke Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 Hello everyone, Was wondering if anyone can help me with my problem. Car has a hard time starting unless I press on the throttle. The colder the outside temperture becomes the greater the problem. Once the car starts, it runs sort of ok. Please note my fuel mileage is terrible at 200 km on a full tank (60 litres). I suspect leaky injectors. Thanks. BROKE (due to maintance cost) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 hmmmm, have you tested the air aux. valve, and thermo-time switch? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest the505inme Posted January 30, 2006 Report Share Posted January 30, 2006 off the top of my head: are you using premium fuel, and how are the spark plugs? A basic tune up will work wonders, ( including the air filter). while weak, stale or low octane fuel will make some turbo cars quite unhappy, esp if they are in a poor state of tune. ANother MPG sucker is a weak or non op O2 sensor; I know from experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted January 31, 2006 Report Share Posted January 31, 2006 Thanks for the reply, Aux. valve was checked awhile back...........must repeat test to be sure. Car runs on super unleaded at all times. Plugs are new but foul due to rich running. O2 sensor was changed less than 50k ago. note: Fuel mixture and idle is tempermental.......very hard to calibrate. Car runs rich at idle.........can actually smell unburned gases. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted January 31, 2006 Report Share Posted January 31, 2006 how's the fuel pressure? do you have a bad regulator? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted February 1, 2006 Report Share Posted February 1, 2006 Regulator was replaced this summer by a used one off my spare car. Spare car ran well and I tested the regulator afterwards and it was an improvement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted February 1, 2006 Report Share Posted February 1, 2006 have you tried another air flow meter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted February 1, 2006 Report Share Posted February 1, 2006 Thanks for tip.............airflow sensor was changed and no change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest the505inme Posted February 1, 2006 Report Share Posted February 1, 2006 I would check the O2 sensor again, 50k is enough for one to fail. Switch it with a new one, if no improvment you can probably bring it back if you're carefull. I had an N9TE years ago that was going through a tank of fuel in just over 200 km, the O2 sensor was stuck on rich! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted February 3, 2006 Report Share Posted February 3, 2006 I will try with a new o2............hopefully that will solve the problem......as soon as the snow melts.....lol........thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted February 7, 2006 Report Share Posted February 7, 2006 I would automatically check the NTC sensor, which is mounted on the side of the thermostat housing. You say the thing is running rich, well, some injection systems, if the value sent the ECU is way too high or way too low, will default and just about dump fuel into the car, almost so much that it won't start. The injectors might be leaky, too, but that's a long shot. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Thanks Bill.........will test the ntc for values........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 I finally pulled the car out for the summer and all seems ok. Unfortunately, I now have a problem with the starter. When I turn the key to start the engine, there is a 2 -3 seconds hesitation. Once the car has turned over or started, the hesitation is not present. Note that this problem occurs only when the car sits overnite!! It acts like dead battery !!!!! Battery was changed and a good used starter was installed. Problem still persists. If anyone has experienced this please let me know. Thanks..........Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest the505inme Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 Check to see that there is 12 v at the small wire on top of the starter when you turn the key. If not, suspect the starter switch, a common prob with these cars. I had the same trouble months ago, but mine was cured by replacing both bat terms, wires, and a good cleaning all the connectors. Some people with bad starter switches install a starter button inside the car, which is kind of cool. I finally pulled the car out for the summer and all seems ok. Unfortunately, I now have a problem with the starter. When I turn the key to start the engine, there is a 2 -3 seconds hesitation. Once the car has turned over or started, the hesitation is not present. Note that this problem occurs only when the car sits overnite!! It acts like dead battery !!!!! Battery was changed and a good used starter was installed. Problem still persists. If anyone has experienced this please let me know. Thanks..........Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted May 11, 2006 Report Share Posted May 11, 2006 I finally pulled the car out for the summer and all seems ok. Unfortunately, I now have a problem with the starter. When I turn the key to start the engine, there is a 2 -3 seconds hesitation. Once the car has turned over or started, the hesitation is not present. Note that this problem occurs only when the car sits overnite!! It acts like dead battery !!!!! Battery was changed and a good used starter was installed. Problem still persists. If anyone has experienced this please let me know. Thanks..........Frank Thanks for the info......will do that!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted May 30, 2006 Report Share Posted May 30, 2006 People with weak starter switches also install a starter relay that needs a much weaker signal to activate the contacts. I'd search the Peugeot-L archives (Can't find it in 505Turbo - but I didn't look long...) I know it's been detailed there many times. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 People with weak starter switches also install a starter relay that needs a much weaker signal to activate the contacts. I'd search the Peugeot-L archives (Can't find it in 505Turbo - but I didn't look long...) I know it's been detailed there many times. Rabin Thanks for your reply.............I find this problem odd cause I exchanged the starter for a good used one and the problem still persisted. It only happens when the car sits overnight. I would rather keep things as original as possible.........if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Thanks for your reply.............I find this problem odd cause I exchanged the starter for a good used one and the problem still persisted. It only happens when the car sits overnight. I would rather keep things as original as possible.........if possible. definitley check the starter 'trigger' wire like the505inme suggested. if your getting sub 12v when the key is in the start position. check the starter relay, or the ignition switch. i've had this happen on 3 or 4 505 turbo's and it's always been the ignition switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 I did a fuel pressure test on my turbo gas and here are the results: At idle the pressure is 38 psi. At acceleration it jumps above 80 psi and and remains there. With the motor not running. The psi drops below 20 psi after 5 minutes. Does anyone know if there is a check valve at the fuel pump of a turbo gas? Upon acceleration Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 I did a fuel pressure test on my turbo gas and here are the results: At idle the pressure is 38 psi. At acceleration it jumps above 80 psi and and remains there. With the motor not running. The psi drops below 20 psi after 5 minutes. Does anyone know if there is a check valve at the fuel pump of a turbo gas? Upon acceleration is the vacuum line on the regulator disconnected at idle when its showing 38psi? i think the last time i did a fuel pressure check (long ago unfortunately), it was roughly 45psi at idle with the line disconnected to the regulator (i had a 3bar regulator too, so keep that in mind), and just about 60psi at WOT (running 15psi boost). if you want to 'try' another regulator let me know, i'm sure i have extra's around somewhere. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted June 2, 2006 Report Share Posted June 2, 2006 is the vacuum line on the regulator disconnected at idle when its showing 38psi? i think the last time i did a fuel pressure check (long ago unfortunately), it was roughly 45psi at idle with the line disconnected to the regulator (i had a 3bar regulator too, so keep that in mind), and just about 60psi at WOT (running 15psi boost). if you want to 'try' another regulator let me know, i'm sure i have extra's around somewhere. Thanks for the offer on the regulator, I have an extra and i hope it works. My measurement are done with all components and lines intact (hooked up). What does WOT mean ........Wide Open Throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 There is a check valve on the fuel. It is located on the fuel pump. I think it might be purchased separately, as I did buy one one time. I didn't save the Bosch number. It is a ball and a spring affair, that can be subject to corrosion, particularly if moisture gets into the fuel system. That reminds me- I need to treat my gas tank to some dry gas, as it has been a while. I had a check valve take a shit one time. As I recall, if the car sat for a while, it took several minutes to get the car started- crank it, wait, crank it, wait, several times and with pauses in between. Now that I am remembering, the starter did crap out shortly after this affair, probably from being overheated, even though I would wait between cranks. When the check valve failed, I was able to blow through the one end, but not the other on the new one. My defective one acted just the opposite- so not only was it allowing the fuel to drain back from the injectors, it was restricting fuel going to them! I think the check valve was about $20. You might also may want to reset the throttle position sensor. One thing to be sure to do is to remove the throttle body from the intake manifold when cleaning it, so that you get behind the butterfly. You want it absolutely clean before the adjustment. -Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 hahahah yep, WOT = wide open throttle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billbranch Posted June 3, 2006 Report Share Posted June 3, 2006 There is a check valve on the fuel. Right. I needed one for my Mi16, and discovered that, although it's a special order item, BMW also has one for about $1.75 (in line). I was experiencing hard hot starts, and a pressure check showed that, even after five minutes, the pressure dropped right off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted June 8, 2006 Report Share Posted June 8, 2006 Ok guys, this is for your info in case you experience the same problem; Changed the injectors on my turbo and the problem of hard starting when cold disappeared. This due to the fact the fuel in the rail would empty itself out overnight via the injectors. Changed the fuel regulator and the problem with excessive black smoke disappeared. This due to the fact that there was 80 psi of fuel in the rail. I replaced the regulator with a new regulator from a n9t engine (non intercooled). A n9t regulator holds 7 psi more than a n9te/a, would this cause any long term damage to the engine or performance? Please note that these are 2 distinctive problems that occured at different intervals. As for the check valve, I was informed that Turbos and V6's do not have any. I would appreciate your comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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