white fome?

[Guest dane]

i took off my oil cap and there was a bunch of white fome on it and some on the wall of the valve cover where you poure the oil in. why is that fome there? o and the oil on the dip stick is a milky brown color..is that a cracked head gasket?

-Dane

[geo]

i took off my oil cap and there was a bunch of white fome on it and some on the wall of the valve cover where you poure the oil in. why is that fome there? o and the oil on the dip stick is a milky brown color..is that a cracked head gasket?

-Dane

Generally it means coolant in the oil from a cracked head or bad head gasket.

-George

[Guest dane]

damn..the car still runs great if it had a cracked head would it still run good? and if it had a cracked head gasket would it still run good? and do you know if that head gasket additive that fixes cracked head gaskets really works?

[Bean]

If you've been making short trips in the car without it getting a chance to warm up fully, and it's fairly cold there, then it *might* be just condensation in the engine that is mixing with the oil and creating that foam.

Is there ANY normal oil showing up on the dipstick at all?

Biggest tell all is that you've been losing coolant, and when you drain the oil you get coolant out first, then the "milkshake".

You need to drain the oil ASAP though to make sure. If oil comes out first then it's most likely the condensation. I'd change the oil regardless, and then take it for a nice long drive so the car gets up to operating temp for a good 60 minutes or so.

My 504 has condensation in it during cold weather - head gasket is fine and it has the foam in oil cap and at the top of the dip stick.

Gook luck - the alternative is the head gasket / head cracked.

Rabin

[bryancohnracing]

I'll only add to be careful on the drive! If it is a blown head gasket or cracked head at some point the oil can get diluted to the point to loose lubricity. Then, instead of a new head gasket you might damage bearings or cylinder walls or ?

For your sake I hopes it condensation as mentioned. I too have seen this in other cars I've owned.

[Bean]

Dang - Bryan is right. I forgot to clarify that you should only take it on a drive if NO water or coolant drains out first. If any water or coolant drains first - open the cap on the reservoir, start the motor to lubricate everything and then shut it off.

If you have coolant in the oil - it can take the bearings out and ruin the engine pretty quick if you run it with contaminated oil.

I'd then look at swapping the engine out with a known good one, or tackle the head replacement.

Rabin

[Guest dane]

Dang - Bryan is right. I forgot to clarify that you should only take it on a drive if NO water or coolant drains out first. If any water or coolant drains first - open the cap on the reservoir, start the motor to lubricate everything and then shut it off.

If you have coolant in the oil - it can take the bearings out and ruin the engine pretty quick if you run it with contaminated oil.

I'd then look at swapping the engine out with a known good one, or tackle the head replacement.

Rabin

damnnn ok ill do that tomorrow first thing. the part that pisses me off is that i JUST put that motor in a different 505turbo body like 3 weeks ago. becouse the 505turbo that i had been driving all this time i was having wayyy to much suspension problems something on it was bent or something the last straw was the tire falling off while i was driving. everything went great with the swap it was actually a hole lot easer then i thought it was going to be.

[wabo505]

If any water or coolant drains first - open the cap on the reservoir, start the motor to lubricate everything and then shut it off.

Right, but sometimes, when there is only a small leakage, it can be usefull to drive with open reservoir. No more coolant is pressed by hot waterpressure into the oil compartment. The "mayonnaise" dissappeard by evaporation, you can return home* and change the cylinder-haed gasket on a clean motor.

*Once I drove 600 miles back home!