dan68rs Posted October 27, 2009 Report Share Posted October 27, 2009 Well when i got this car it had been sitting for atleast 3 years, i got it running but it was smoking very bad. I took the turbo off and checked the drain and check for play in the shaft, i did not find anything blocking the drain and the shaft has no play, but do have alot of oil. From what i read the oil seals go bad and you have alot of slop in the shaft, does anyone know if you have have just the seal leak very bad but no slack in the shaft? I checked the compression and 1 was at a little over 130 and the others were at 150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 I've rebuilt a couple turbos, and the oil seals were basically just oil rings - so yes - I think it's quite possible for there to have been a split and cause oil to leak. I assume your intake and intercooler are just filthy with fresh oil then? That's the dead give away. If they're relatively dry then oil's getting into the combustion chamber another way. Quick rebuild and you should be good. If you can spec out the parts individually on some sites you can save a whack of cash over the rebuilt "kits" for these. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 How long did you let it run after you got it started? If it has been setting awhile, it can smoke on startup and a while after that. Bill Well when i got this car it had been sitting for atleast 3 years, i got it running but it was smoking very bad. I took the turbo off and checked the drain and check for play in the shaft, i did not find anything blocking the drain and the shaft has no play, but do have alot of oil. From what i read the oil seals go bad and you have alot of slop in the shaft, does anyone know if you have have just the seal leak very bad but no slack in the shaft? I checked the compression and 1 was at a little over 130 and the others were at 150. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted October 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 How long did you let it run after you got it started? If it has been setting awhile, it can smoke on startup and a while after that. Bill I let it run for a little bit but it was leaking oil out pretty good from the turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 I let it run for a little bit but it was leaking oil out pretty good from the turbo. It should be leaking internally and oil should be leaking into the intake which eventually gets into the engine and smokes. If you are leaking externally - then you need to check out the oil supply line to the turbo. I don't they can leak externally any other way unless the housing has a nasty crack in it. The more info you post the easier it will be for people to help. Without details I'm just guessing. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted November 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 It should be leaking internally and oil should be leaking into the intake which eventually gets into the engine and smokes. If you are leaking externally - then you need to check out the oil supply line to the turbo. I don't they can leak externally any other way unless the housing has a nasty crack in it. The more info you post the easier it will be for people to help. Without details I'm just guessing. Rabin its from the inside of the turbo, that is why i was thinking the drain was stopped up. and its only on the exhaust side. not bad mess on the intake side or boost side. I had it running with the exhaust loose where it bolts to the turbo and saw the oil from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted November 4, 2009 Report Share Posted November 4, 2009 That's an odd failure for sure. Usually the seals let go and it leaks internally on the boost side and the smoke is from the oil burning during combustion. It could just be the seal on the exhaust side that let go though - just haven't heard of that kind of failure before. Seals and bearings should fix it right up unless you can find a cheap one off another Peugeot. The 505 Turbo's don't share the exhaust housing with any other car - so you can't use another T3 turbo without modifications / adapter plates. Other than the turbo issue - does the car sound OK? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted November 6, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2009 That's an odd failure for sure. Usually the seals let go and it leaks internally on the boost side and the smoke is from the oil burning during combustion. It could just be the seal on the exhaust side that let go though - just haven't heard of that kind of failure before. Seals and bearings should fix it right up unless you can find a cheap one off another Peugeot. The 505 Turbo's don't share the exhaust housing with any other car - so you can't use another T3 turbo without modifications / adapter plates. Other than the turbo issue - does the car sound OK? Rabin seems to run fine, i had it idle for about 10 min but the smoke was kind of bad and my wife wanted me to stop. i checked the compression and it seemed good so i hope the motor is fine, i was thinking of trying to run the car without the turbo just to see if it runs ok just need to find a way to loop the oil line to the drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted December 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 little update: i have taken the turbo apart but have not tried to clean it yet. as you can see from the pics it was very nasty on the exhaust side only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 Ouch! That sucker needs to be remanufactured by a turbo shop. If you can get a balanced assembly you could likely re-assemble it yourself, but at that point it's likely better to just get another known good one or a rebuilt. Since the exhaust housing is Pug only - you'd need to do some modding to get another one to fit (IE: and adapter plate). Turbo's for these can be found on e-bay as well. Good luck! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted December 2, 2009 Report Share Posted December 2, 2009 We send out turbos to www.turbocity.com or you can buy the kit and try yourself but I reccomend them to do it and they rebuild them for a decent $. here http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=168 and for the center section http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=222 Or I have a very nice tubo I can sell with the manifold and feed line still on for $200 I can test the actuator but no guarantee on that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted December 3, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2009 We send out turbos to www.turbocity.com or you can buy the kit and try yourself but I reccomend them to do it and they rebuild them for a decent $. here http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=168 and for the center section http://www.turbocity.com/product_info.php?products_id=222 Or I have a very nice tubo I can sell with the manifold and feed line still on for $200 I can test the actuator but no guarantee on that. I might be interested in the turbo for 200, i will let you know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Update; I decided to go ahead and have the one i took off rebuilt. new housing and some small upgrades. it is on now but the alt is bad now so still working on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Koll just posted that his Turbo had a generic GM two wire altenator installed on his car - so that might be an option for fixing your alternator for cheap - and it'd likely be a decent upgrade to boot. So where did you have the turbo done, and what were the upgrades? T3/T4 upgrade? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Koll just posted that his Turbo had a generic GM two wire altenator installed on his car - so that might be an option for fixing your alternator for cheap - and it'd likely be a decent upgrade to boot. So where did you have the turbo done, and what were the upgrades? T3/T4 upgrade? Rabin this is the place that did it = http://bnrsupercars.com/ I know he said new center housing and upgraded compressor wheel i think and did some work on the compressor housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 If they charged $425 then it was likely this: BNR SVO Stage 1 Upgrade (SVO uses a similar T3 turbo as our car) BNR's entry level turbocharger consists of the factory compressor housing, turbine housing and wastegate actuator assembly. It will appear 100% bolt up and will require absolutely no fabrication to install. The compressor wheel is upgraded to a T04E 46 trim and the stock turbine wheel is clipped to reduce back pressure. The thrust bearing is upgraded with a 360 degree thrust assembly. The rotating assembly is balanced to .5 gram/in2. This turbocharger is capable up to 320 RWHP and comes with a 1 year warranty! •46 trim T04E compressor wheel •clipped turbine wheel •stock compressor housing is machined to fit larger compressor wheel •360 degree thrust bearing assembly •balanced to .5 gram/in2 •1 year warranty BNR Stage 1 Price: $475 If that's the case, and you plan on using the added flow capabilities - I would advise to upgrade the injectors to the Bosch "803" (337cc?) injectors and the FPR to a 3 bar unit... If not - I wouldn't boost it past 10 psi otherwise you might be running on the lean side of things AFR wise. This is of course if you don't have a dyno handy so that you know exactly what you can dial it up to... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan68rs Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 If they charged $425 then it was likely this: BNR SVO Stage 1 Upgrade (SVO uses a similar T3 turbo as our car) BNR's entry level turbocharger consists of the factory compressor housing, turbine housing and wastegate actuator assembly. It will appear 100% bolt up and will require absolutely no fabrication to install. The compressor wheel is upgraded to a T04E 46 trim and the stock turbine wheel is clipped to reduce back pressure. The thrust bearing is upgraded with a 360 degree thrust assembly. The rotating assembly is balanced to .5 gram/in2. This turbocharger is capable up to 320 RWHP and comes with a 1 year warranty! •46 trim T04E compressor wheel •clipped turbine wheel •stock compressor housing is machined to fit larger compressor wheel •360 degree thrust bearing assembly •balanced to .5 gram/in2 •1 year warranty BNR Stage 1 Price: $475 If that's the case, and you plan on using the added flow capabilities - I would advise to upgrade the injectors to the Bosch "803" (337cc?) injectors and the FPR to a 3 bar unit... If not - I wouldn't boost it past 10 psi otherwise you might be running on the lean side of things AFR wise. This is of course if you don't have a dyno handy so that you know exactly what you can dial it up to... Rabin im going to say its the 1st one, he said it would be good for a little over 300whp. very nice guy if anyone ever needs to get anything done i recommend him. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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