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Ah yes - makes total sense! Now to get specific - was there an amount of toe out that you used for the track? I'm thinking this would make a HUGE difference to slalom racing as well - but I'm curious where the line is before you have too much toe out. I remember doing a steering rack swap then drving it to an alignment and I experienced Toe out at the extreme. It was a fight to keep it straight - but it definitely turned in eagerly! Thanks Victor! Rabin

So this begs the questions Victor - what was your race alignment specs? I'm all for sacrificing tires in the name of outrageous handling - but I would always just have the standard wheel alignment done, so I've never really played with a "race" set up. I'd be curious to hear what you ran at the track, and then compare it to what we run stock. Rabin

Funny you should mention this one... This is the MBC I used on the Subaru Rally car that I crew cheif'd on. It's a trick set up, and it worked great during the rally, but it suffered from fluctuations between use. So every race day it would have to be set up. The only downside I can see for this set up was the quality of the valves. For the control to be nice and crisp it had to be in the engine compartment (routing inside caused spikes) so I plumbed it all in the engine compartment using steel brake lines. Trouble I think will be the diaphrams in the unit. Since they're not "automotive" grade units the longevity will not be very good at all. In use though it was awesome and it gave fantastic boost control. In the subaru I actualy had two boost circuits - used a regulator on the circuit to the boost pressure switch so that the ECU only saw it's peak allowable boost (12 psi I think) and then the turbo wastegate saw whatever I wanted. ECU went to a full rich map at 12 psi and actually had fueling for 15 psi. We ran C16 race gas - so I upped it 17 psi for our last race and it was nuts. Sadly the car had no intercooler - so the heat generated was far too high - but it still made more power so the driver wanted it maxxed out. (I didn't want to go over 14 psi) For daily use - using a tweaked electronic boost controller is definitely the ticket - especially one that can take other parameters into consideration - such as engine temp and such. BTW - the control unit ended up costing about $150 cdn after all was said and done - and it did work great for the race car. Rabin

Nicely done! I'd suggest some heat sheilding / resistant action though - maybe some header wrap or something to help that steel from heating up too much near that manifold... Course this begs the question - What track? (1/4 mile? Road race?) You'll definitely have to let us know how the beast runs! Car's looking sweet - can hardly wait for more pics and details once it starts running. Rabin

Rear Camber is usually fixed by replacing the cross member isolation block bushings at each end of the cross member. (Told that they have a heavy duty taxi version or something that should be used.) Failing that - you can take it to a frame shop to tweak that rear cross member. From what I was told they put it on a frame machine, chain down the ends and jack up the centre and it cambers out the wheels. Another method is to shim the rear bearing housings (where they mount to the trailing arms) to get rid of the camber. The part about tweaking the front crossmember is just retarded - it's thick cast part - not something conducive to bending. (And even if it did bend - it'd hardly affect camber!) 505 Turbo's have some decent camber built in the front struts and if your getting worn inner edges at the front you usually just need a touch more toe in to even up wear... (But check your spring perches to see that they're not starting to rust out.) Rabin

Talk to your local windsheild place - or go to Pep Boys or something. They should have the adhesive needed to just glue it back... Windsheild place would likely just do it for free - so I'd check there. Rabin

That's a GORGEOUS car Fernando! Very nicely done. Welcome to the forum and I look forward to seeing more pictures. As an aside - Hopefully we can use your knowledge and contacts since we are sometimes in dire need of parts that are only available in South America - as well as clear up certain things we've heard... (For example: Sun roof seals, trim, lights, etc etc.) Mostly though - did the 505 ever come with a 7" and 5 3/4" quad round headlight set up in Argentina? We discussed this a while back as I thought I saw a magazine once that had the 505 with a quad round headlight set up with the 7" outer lights as being the Aouth American version in the mid to late 1990's...

What about a thinner profile fan? Or even using two smaller fans? With two smaller fans mounted they would have a much thinner profile and would still cover enough area to cool sufficently. Means messing about with fan mounting yet again - but it would allow you to keep the stock pump set up - which is likely the ideal way to do it. It's a tough call since you want to have it "right" - but if the offset isn't doing it for you then I wonder if just getting a custom pulley would help. Curious - is it depth that's causing clearance, or will the pulley diameter hit the fan motor too? Took a look at the blog pics again and it's a gorgeous set up - just needs to get massaged to work!

Hey August, Can you provide more details why the RD rad isn't going to work? Clearance issues - or functionality issues? Are you talking about using the stock fan set up - or a thin sucker fan? My car has the magnetic fan assembly gutted to just a pulley with a slimline sucker fan doing the cooling - works awesome and there's space. Could also go with a pusher fan on the grill side of the rad if you're really tight for space to. If it were clearance I would think that you could tweek the header panel easier than switching to electric water pumps. I have experience with electric pumps - but they were designed as bolt on's to the motor (SBC 350's and such). There was another stand alone water pump I used for a portable welder that worked great for that application - but it was designed for drag cars - not enough volume for a daily driver. What might work better for you however would be to use a 12V electric motor to run the stock waterpump. I've seen guys run kits that sping the water pump at a constant speed - so you get gains in less power consumption, plus it turns at a steady rate which is better for cooling since the water isn't being pumped at too high of velocities - such as at redline and such. I've seen the set up on some drag V8's - that were daily drivers - so it might be an option.

I live in Regina Saskatchewan Canada... Probably own 5 out of the 10 cars in the entire Province of Saskatchewan - so it's a very rare car here. BTW - Saskatchewan is a huge! Bigger than a lot of countries, but hardly populated. (Under 1 million total.) Great place to live though! Rabin

Just curious if you've had any updates yet? Realize it's close to your recent move - so things must be hectic... Myself - It's just starting to get nice out so I should be able to finally start my project... Rabin

Just occured to me that I may have put a damper on your MBC idea - not my intention at all - but what I would suggest if the MBC isn't working for you - is setting up MS to do the boost control. It's dead simple to use one of the channels of MS to do a VERY sofisticated electronic boost controller, and I'm sure the code is even easily downloadable! Find a electronic boost solenoid from a wrecker, wire it in, and let the MS handle the rest. MUCH better than a MBC since even when they work they can have HUGE variances based on temp and atmospheric pressure... I've been lurking on the MS yahoogroups list acquiring info for the last 3-4 years. I'm personally waiting for Ultra-MegaSquirt, but till then I'm pretty much settled on using the Turbo Dodge factory ECU that has been hacked to allow it to be programmed. (It has programmable boost capabilities too - even temp dependant so it will limit boost till operating temp...) For the tank - one option would be fuel cell - the other would be to find a wrecker to see if you can just replace with a good part. It sucks to have to do all this kind of stuff - and it's usually the stuff that kills a project. Here there's a retaining ring that holds the intank assemble the it just rotates out. The main pump should be easy enough to replace / secure with a good inline performance pump. (Like a Walbro) Exhaust is stainless so it should be fairly decent - might be one of the last things I do to be honest. It's a decent mandrel bent stainless system - and would likely be totally fine to 250 HP with a good muffler. If you can get through it though the payoff is huge. Just don't start in too many places - get it running and then pick of the stuff it needs one at a time. Rabin

Bleed is needed so that the wastegate can vent after it sees boost... IE: As soon as the engine builds boost to overcome the spring and ball it fills the actuator and opens the wastegate, boost falls, spring closes and traps the pressure in the actuator which keeps the gate open... When the spring is closed the pressure needs to escape through a bleed so the wastegate can "deflate". I took a look at the build link you sent and it's step 7. Didn't read the article though - just skimmed to see if it had a bleed in it. Rabin

Balance bar usually fits right at the master cylinders - so if you mount and external box to house the master cylinders, the space that now holds the booster can be used to set up the balance bar assembly. I've seen this done for an old Volvo rally car project, and it was quite a trick set up - complete with hydraulic rear parking brake using a clutch master to actuate the rear brakes... (Brake line goes "through" the clutch master for normal braking - but when you pull the lever it actuates the clutch rod which "brakes" the rear calipers....) Hope you're able to do one or the other - having bias control would be great. Rabin

I hope you have better luck than me - I hooked a MBC like that (Grainger valves) and the Peugeot would have none of it. Couldn't get consistent boost control for love or money. Put it back into a Turbo Dodge and it worked perfect... Sounds like the hole in the previous system was just a bleeder to try and get more boost as well - you're MBC should have a bleed as well... (Unless it was just a crappy connector!) Not how much gain you'll get with the 3" DP and stock syustem - but at least it's there for a 3" all the way back. (Going through / across the rear subframe is the issue, unless you do side exhaust.) There's so much potential in these cars it's crazy. I see guys spending $5000 USD on brakes for their Volvo and for a fraction a 505 Turbo with the same money into it would blow it into the weeds. It is nice to be driving a car with aftermarket support - but the urge to do the Pug is just getting stronger and stronger. Hopefully this summer I can finally start getting some progress done on my car! Rabin

Yeah - you can't "adjust" for offset with camber or caster... You can try to tune out some of the issues, but too much offset is really nasty to drive and nothing you do to compensate will help. Keep in mind that if you have a wider wheel the offset amount changes with the width. So you really want to look at the backspacing measurement and ensure that you have the same backspacing as the stock wheels. With the wider wheel the pivot point on the contact patch is going to be buggered and having adjustible camber and caster will help tune issues that arise from that. Sadly with the one piece hub / strut assembly's in the older cars you are limited in the suspension geometry. Newer 505's (88 and 89's) have a more traditional 2-pc strut and hub set up so it might be easier to fit bigger wheels to those cars... Great work so far - and I like the style of wheel you want! Rabin

Adjustible strut mounts will only let you play with camber and sometimes caster (depends on the unit) - offset won't be affected - so you'll need to do the math so that the inside edge of the rim is within 10mm of the strut housing. (As close as possible with not rubbing) You'll need to do some math to figure out which wheel to use so that it fits properly. I worked it out with mine and I'm going with re-drilled hubs with a 5x120 BMW 5 series bolt pattern and wheel. The 7" wide BMW wheel with a 20mm offset is supposed to fit perfectly. Rabin

The calipers bolt to the strut and have proper spacing for the disk yes - but the Volvo calipers from the 240 also have two brake lines per caliper. Two circuits are used - one set of pistons on each front caliper and one rear caliper on each circuit - so if one circuit is comprimised - it will still brake both front wheels. The dual master set up is definitely trick - but make sure there's a way to adjust brake bias. A balance bar between the two masters is a simple elegant design, or a bias valve on the rear line would work too. As for the calipers available - I checked here for other lighter calipers that may be used for the 240 Turbo since they'd bolt onto the Peugeot too - but apparently nobody really upgrades them since they're quite good already. I found one guy that used aluminum Mazda RX7 calipers on the Volvo - but it needed spacers and an adapter to fit it. If you find any sources for bolt on caliper upgrades for the 240 Volvo - keep us posted! BTW - with a little modifying of the bracket - the front calipers from a non turbo 505 will fit on the 505 rear disks. No park brake assembly - but there's a way to set up a hydraulic parking brake using a clutch master to actuate the rear disks... Rabin

Still might be worth a post - the only people that might have a parts car would be a current owner... I used to have a couple myself - but sadly I lost storage and the cars had to be towed away... Rabin

Hi Bram, If I were you I'd post to the Peugeot-L mailing list. There should be more than a few owners of 604's that should be interested in trading a US set up for the Euro set up... It's funny how the grass is always greener on the other side - personally I think the euro set up is FAR superior. Rabin

Holy crap Bill - that should have also given you a really hard start problem (timing retarded) - or the car should have dieseled on at shut off if the timing was that far off... (Advanced) Weird that the only symptoms were the ones that were showing... Glad it was a cheap fix - and it stresses making sure the basics are covered! Rabin

Ideally - getting something like a Tilton dual master cylinder would be the trick way to go. The have separate masters for front and rear with a bias bar between the two that allows you to adjust brake bias front and rear. It's a manual set up (no booster) so depending on what calipers you use, you could size the masters accordingly. Volvo 4 piston calipers bolt onto the Pugs with no problems (need the 240 Turbo calipers or the ones for vented disks) but they'd be a nice cheap upgrade. (Heavy - but good.) Keep us posted - it's looking decent! I'm also impressed with your progress - keep up the good work! Rabin

There was a guy that posted on Peugeot-L for some 89 505 turbo ABS parts... I e-mailed him back and asked about the diff and rear axles... They were still available so now I just have to work out shipping. (Sorry guys!) It was an automatic car, so if anyone needs parts let me know and I'll forward his post from Peugeot-L when I get home. (Or e-mail directly if you're on Peugeot-L yahoogroups.) Car looks like it was rear ended pretty hard from the few pics he sent - not sure what if any other damage was incurred. I'm hoping the addition will help the car from being so tail happy in autocrosses and be able to better put the power down on pavement... Be neat to see what the difference it makes. Rabin

There should be a relief valve (looks like a tire valve) on the fuel rail after the regulator - you should be able to relieve the pressure there, remove the valve, and then put the hose on it to get that gauge onto the rail. (That's just a guess with out a 505 Turbo to double check handy!) If you can confirm pressure, then you'll have to remove the injectors to test for flow - at least that's were I'd test it. Make sure you eliminate the filter first though - it could still very well be a plugged filter. Rabin

505 SCCA car... Well - looks like that 505 that was on e-bay a while back has been cleaned up and is now back on the block... Tempting - but for $7500 USD my car would kill it every which way with the same investment. Great piece of Peugeot history though... Rabin