N9TE

Hey all, Does anybody have a picture of the distributor and what goes where on the firing order? I'm replacing the wires in my car and I already took them out of the plastic sleeve that goes along the valve cover. I can guess based on length which is which as the wires are still hooked up to the distributor, but I'd rather have the reference as well. I think I have every technical book Peugeot ever put out but I can't find it. I've looked in both class 1 and class 12 and even in the owner's manual, but I can't find it. Sorry for the stupid question, but I'll post a picture on my website so you can all reference it when you need it as well. Thanks, Koll

OK. Just did a compression test. 1. 135 2. 110 3. 140 4. 125 The variance is 22% and not the ideal <10% as is the accepted norm. Engine ran great before and I'm assuming after. Your thoughts?

Very very cool. Wonder what it would be like in the States here to show up on a jobsite with all those F150s and Silverados with one of those! Too bad they didn't make those available in the US during the roaring late 90s while the SUV craze was in fulll swing. Had anybody offer you cash for it yet?

Someone is selling a ZDJL sedan in the For Sale section. Although I'm not in a position to buy it, I've always wondered about that engine. I've never even driven one. One would think that the timing belt and OHC engine would make it a more "modern" engine. They seem to have more parts available for it even though I find them to be more rare than N9T cars. Anybody put any real road time on one of those cars? Are they any better than the XN engines? Can you tell by driving one? The published specs say it's nothing special at all. Just wondering.

If it makes a noise, presumably the motor is getting voltage. This is sounding like a mechanical issue. R&Ring the sunroof assembly looks like a bear of a job. One I do not look forward to doing. Thankfully I don't have to yet. Usually the cable that controls the movement of the sunroof has split allowing the cable to escape it's sheeth when it's "pushing". The Peugeot-L list has some lengthly threads on how others have fixed this. It requires at least a partial disassembly of the headliner. The book details the process. Maybe others that have done it could comment more.

Ya, I just got some information from the Bosch site (really, I'm not joking!) and there was this PDF that went into O2 sensor basics. There was a specific note that the heater element isn't polarized and you only have to concern yourself about connecting the white wires together. Thanks for the note though.

Is any sound at all accompany the pressing of the switch? This is one way to determine if it is mechanical or electrical in nature.

Hey all, I'm putting a new Bosch 13953 3 wire universal O2 sensor into my 87 turbo S. This was the unit Joe Grubbs recommended on Peugeot-L. It's application is a 1988 302 Ford Bronco. I pulled the old one (looks like the original one!) and am getting ready to splice the wires. I understand that the two white ones are for the pre-heater. Are they coded in any way or can they be attached either way as long as it's the two white ones that are paired and the black is with black? Thanks much, Koll

I don't have any experience with the manual 505 windows, but every crank window I've ever removed has been with a clip remover. http://www.focushacks.com/printable.php?modid=46

Check the vacuum hoses. Both at the HVAC and the wastegate actuator. In fact, I can pretty guarantee that one fell off at the HVAC control panel. Those seem pretty reliable and if you're pushing buttons and getting nothing, I'm quite sure one fell off. You know how to disassemble that stuff, right? Pretty easy, just take your time. I think you can do the whole thing with a #2 phillips. A substantial vacuum leak will effect turbo performance.

For west coasters, why not do a poll and map the people who would come. Then find a venue commensurate with the weight of the participant's locations. For example, if 10 people are coming from LA and two from Seattle, then it's the Bay Area. If 10 from Seattle and 2 from LA, then it's Olympia. Using such a method I'd guess it'd be in Oregon somewhere. August just got ahead of the game there!

Like alll iron block/aluminum head combos, it's not like the old days of small block Fords and Chevys when no one knew what a blown head gasket was. Overheat (only once), overboost, bad gas (requires premium), carbon buildup in combustion chamber or any/all combination of these can cause any IR/AL engine to blow a head gasket - guaranteed - from any automaker. You can get an oil analysis to see if coolant is making it's way into the oil. As well, you can have you coolant tested. I think Blackstone does both. A smart thing to do with any engine with an unknown history. You can always do a visual yourself and monitor the temp gauge. It shouldn't go much past the 1/2 way point. The electro-mechanical fan clutch should be working. If not, that's a bad sign. Knock sensor should be working and properly mounted. N9T employs a standard Bosch-L FI system. If you know your way around one, this is no different. Coolant requires a by-the-book bleed procedure to avoid air pockets. The heads are known to develop stress cracks in around the exhaust valves. But they aren't like 7M-G(T)E Toyota engines where the factory woefully undertorqued the head bolts or Ford V6s or Subarus, etc. Properly maintained, the engine is very stout. Mine has 140K on what might be the original head gasket. Abused while in a neglected state WILL roach a head gasket if not the head itself. Seeing these cars have been at the bottom of the economic ladder for a while, many/most have fallen into careless hands. Finding an unmolested car is a big challenge now. Get yourself a factory engine manual. Don't accept a photocopy reproduction. Then, start looking for the other 5 factory manuals (body, drivetrain, brakes, electrical, clutch). An quicker way to go is to find a trusted mechanic who knows the N9T engine.

Actually it means in an attempt to do a repeated hard brake, I locked them up. Only for a 1/2 a second or so, but that is enough to screw up your rotors. The part number is 4246H4.

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinstock.shtml

Yes.

Oh yeah. Drop yer panties for these... Contact info: Michelle Paul Spruell Motorsports [email protected] Email her and ask for the Peugeot 505 turbo ABS rotors. Total cost including shipping was $501.29. She will contact Peugeot NA and it will be drop shipped from Peugeot (FOB Allentown, PA) to you (UPS 3 day air). It took about two weeks. They have to come from France. Just don't be a dork and lock 'em up when you bed the pads! I did that on the wife's car and there is a pulse.

Swapping in a N9T would be almost as hard as swapping in an engine from another carmaker. Just save your money, when a turbo car comes up - buy it. You'll save a ton on money and everything will be hooked up perfect. Well, unless someone has screwed with it. Which most have. But, welcome to the club. You should be able to pick up a good turbo for 2K. A nice one for 4. With all kinds of varients in between. As for your present car. Just keep it. It's a good car. Use it as backup or your daily driver while you're sorting out your turbo.

A couple of factors make this understandable. First, the demand must be very low and second, being a one-off part (the rotor was not used on ANY other car to my knowledge) it requires dedicated resources for this one part. That being said, the rotors should be one of the last parts to go NLA as it makes the car inoperable without it and it IS a consumable. For those reasons, Peugeot should step up production to at least meet demand. THAT being said, I called Peugeot and begged for some rotors. They put me in touch with this company in GA that is an authorized Peugeot Dealer and coordinated an order from France. They should arrive any day now drop shipped from NJ. Total cost with shipping: $502. Better deal? Dunno, I haven't gotten them yet. If all looks good, I'll post the contact infos, etc. so others can get them as well.

If you really want a French car now, you can buy one. The Renault Cleo which is sold under the name Nissan Versa. I've seen a few tooling around. They look quite nice and turn in some good numbers (economy). Of course, it's no Citroen C5, but you take what you can get.

It's a good idea but all a matter or personal motivation. Toni is doing an outstanding job on his site and it's a gem. For those intelligent few who appreciate a disciplined approach like Toni is taking, visit http://www.tomyang.net/ You'll be amazed at the volume and depth he takes. I was so engrossed, I read the site complete non-stop in two days. Like any good writer, you know how to pace your articles so that you give enough detail but keep the story moving. I hope to do a Tom Yang type documentation if I do a frame-up resto on my 505. For those just testing the waters and don't have a site of their own, a forum here would be a good idea. If the owner doesn't provide one, just post them in the tech section. They'll no doubt end up being thoroughly viewed and appreciated by all.

Let us know how it works. I've heard it was rather ineffective as it's infrared. Some have said unkind things about the design and implemention. I'm going to put it a robust custom alarm system. I've had a little practice and know how I'm going to attack the problem.

The early cars had a very short tube on the side of the block, newer ones of course were longer - but I have no idea if the American cars were the same as Euro cars... This was only the cast on US 1985 N9T cars. The 1986 US N9TE and up had the bigger sticks.

62.8 cm from tip to stopper (tip of tube). 17mm from the tip is the "ADD" mark. 42mm from the tip is the "FULL" mark.

Ya. I bought a 1/2 pint or so localy before I sprung for a couple of gallons. Works just like they say. The process is salled chelation which chemically severs the rust from the metal. I've got a couple of gallons on order. Have some nasty bigger pieces I'm going to try next. I'll add to this thread with some pictures.

Just curious. Why do you say that? Do they have a reputation I'm not aware of? Koll (I was thinking of buying one of their crate engines someday)