N9TE

Then there's the Japanese tires. This is where branding shows its real value. I'd buy a Chinese or S. African Michelin because certain quality standards must be met before the name goes on. No matter where its made. A Michelin is a Michelin. I know "Bolex" is not a name anybody here has ever heard of. But I agree with you that the 505 is the best car no matter what the tire and a driver with his wits about him is also crucial. Glad you only have an exciting story from that!

Electrical connections... Try Toyota. I have a serious love/hate relationship with Toyota. I'm equally at east working on yotas and Peugeots. Yota electrics are a dream. Referenced by color (!), bulletproof, well routed, properly insulated. You couldn't ask for better stuff. So what's wrong with Toyotas? Well, it's just that they're made by Toyota. I'll rant on how much Toyota sucks sometime later. At the end of the day, I'll still take a Peugeot.

I found that Griot's new Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner does almost the exact job Sonax does at a better price point. It also turns red. A better and cheaper product is Duragloss 821 wheel cleaner. Auto Parts stores affiliated with PartsAmerica carry the Duragloss line. Worth knowing for quality items you can buy retail. I've found that cleaning wheels is usually a matter of effort - A LOT. Heavy duty tools can be used on the barrels, but you're right that you should keep things mild with the fronts.

Looks like you're on the right track. Fuel is usually easier to diagnose than a no-spark. Less things in the chain. At least on start.

It's been a very long and tough journey for you to get that car sorted out. The odds were truly stacked against you. It's nice to see you stuck with it and learned so much. Keep up the good work!

Ah, good! Low level coolant? Funny you should mention that. I got it too. Probably needs to be bled properly, but while working on this boost controller thing, I noticed some coolant on the floor. At first I thought it was the water pump (!), but not I'm not sure. It could be the lower hose. I'll have to watch it very closely. I tried searching the archives here as well as the pinned tech articles. But it's not there. Jim Lill's server has been barfing up 403s for the past 3 years. His TPS adjustment is there, but he had this big 2 page tune post.

Yup, it's the 1989 N9TEA car! Ya, I see what you're saying. However, I just assumed as a working theory that the WGC would work just like a standard one and plumbed it up as you and J-FET said. And, it worked. Boosted nicely. Boost gauge went to 2/3 on full throttle @ 3K RPMs and up. Car (obviously) is a whole bunch faster. Not sure if I'm going to plumb the other side of the diaphragm into the intake. Realistically, the electrovalve will pop open the bypass valve on throttle snap, so I'm not worried. It looks like I'll have to to a classic "Grubbs" tune. Tossed a 5, 1 code. He did an awesome writeup on that once. Anybody got it handy? So, I get 5 blinks and pause and then one. Is that two codes (potentiometer and detonation)?

Yup, circled item is the port he was talking about. Hmmm... Interesting stuff. However, I'm not so sure. I think the Waste Gate Controller (WGC) diaphragm is from another application done by a previous mechanic. Reasons I think this: I searched the fiches and didn't find the WG Controller (single or dual). I see no reference to a dual WGC in any of the factory manuals. Not on the archives of Peugeot-L. My only concern is that the diaphragm is of a different resistance than OEM and that might cause problems. I'd have to R&R it in that case and that means I'd be pulling the exhaust and turbo. So, I'm gonna hook it up like JunctionFET and yourself suggested and seeing what happens.

Yes, there are two inlets on the wastegate. One is not connected to anything. Here is the picture of the bottom.

Spoke too soon. Look what I found: What's a suitable workaround? Tap the I/C pipe? How critical is it's proximity to the impeller?

Yes, I did and it looks like that was correct. Air blown into green dot (center port) exists through red dot (firewall port)! So far so good. I could not find the green dot port. I pulled the first intercooler pipe (turbo to IC pipe) and for the life of me, found nothing. Here is a picture with the camera near the HVAC blower motor pointing down: Here is a picture about where the air cleaner is, pointing down: Wow, you see that boss on picture #2? Could it be that the turbo was replaced with a generic housing that didn't have the port?

Awesome information. Thanks! Nobody could screw that up now! (you just wait...) I'll let you guys know what happens. Oh yeah, thanks for mentioning the <87 evap-to-accordion connection. I remember that one well and now that all makes sense!

No paint dots of any kind on it. If I guess and hook them up per Rabin's suggestion, where is the compressor outlet? Thanks for everybody's help on this! Koll

Hi all, this is mainly for Rabin and Stefan, but how do you hook up the boost controller (electrovalve)? Here is a picture of the unit: Here is a picture of how it mounts in the car: And here's a PDF from the manual about the item. Unfortunately, there is no more documentation available. The unit does not have any designations (A, on the ports. PDF Can someone with a functional N9TEA look and let me know where the three ports connect up to? Facing straight-on to the unit, there is the: left port: center port: right port: Thanks!

Ya, time to dial the phone.

It's a diesel. Turbo gas was introduced for the 1985 model year.

Opel GT. I had a couple of those. Funky cars. I enjoyed them. Wow, you're damn near up on two wheels in one of those shots!

This is gonna be a niiice car when you're done.

How much? Vu parl Francais?

It's so nice to see that car getting the care and maintenance it deserves. We'll all be very envious (in a good way) when you're done. It should be a strong contender to today's new luxury sedans when you get done. Very nice!

My kind of R & R! Keep the pictures coming!

Glad to head it was an easy fix!

I take it you've checked the part numbers @ W-H on the off chance they can be bought new? Thanks!

Hey Rabin, how did you go about re-wiring the primary wiring so it was fused? It's really a bizarre setup with some bad choices. You can fuse each #10 wire coming off the distribution block. But it seems weird to fuse a wire for a 16 inch trip - to a fusebox. That combined with the general mess in that part of the engine compartment has made me hesitate and not do this job. I could be literally playing with fire! Plus, you had a meltdown with a fan switch hot lead? That should be job #1 on my 89.

Hey, if you look, between the side of the fender and the wrap around bumper is a little rubber piece. Both myself and Rabin need these on both sides of the car. Can you ask him how he sources these or fabricates them? I hear they usually don't survive the test of time.