Goce

As i've said before i'm no expert in those engines, but are you sure you are having constant spark, staff like alarms can cut spark or fuel after starting, also on older cars water in the distributor cap can cause the symptoms you are describing, i've been there at a car wash pulling the distributor cap off and wiping it and waiting to dry completely, a neighbor a had condensation problems in his distributor and every morning, till it got some heat to dry the cap it would backfire like crazy, i finally got tired getting woken and took some silicone and seals his cap to the distributor body that helped and few weeks later he totaled that car.

Joe, did you feel power increase from the cold air, those cars have very restrictive intake and they like the cooler temps outside.

Harbor freight tools drill bits won't drill it, you need better quality, also you need to drill couple sizes, start 4mm or 1/4" drill bit first then 10mm or 3/8" second and 14mm or 1/2". You don't need to drill it full 2" you need to go around 1" deep. Also expect the rim to be stuck to the hub, good kick from the inside usually gets them unstuck or use a rubber hammer. And use a corded drill, not a battery powered one it usually has more power and there weight make them more stable, less broken drill bits. I hope this makes sense.

Wow, where do you live, at the beach, i've never seen wheel bolts that rusty and they are chrome from the factory. Try screw extractor, or drill them out.

Last few months my 605 has become more laggy, i know i have few boost leaks, but also i had a feeling it was lacking fuel, so i took the 4 screws and try pressing the boost compensator diagram and it felt hard. I want to replace it, i do have couple of spare turbo ve pumps but i don't know are they all the same, or can i just buy new one. Any knowledge or part number is greatly appreciated.

New update on this thread, the replacement thermostat that was also from 92 failed this time opened. Basically the engine would never get over 70 C and i had almost no heat inside, so i bought a new one installed it and now is running as it should. Let's hope this thermostat lasts, its new. The inspection pit made changing it much easier, i also flashed the system and fill it with new coolant.

A good friend of mine, has a good looking car with a destroyed hood, all discolored and knowing him i ask him how do you deal with seeing it everyday like that. He said, i've put a very dim bulb in my garage so it doesn't show that much when i park it, hahah??

Over the summer this car has developed a leak in the cooling system, i've been busy and with 3 cars to drive i've been adding water. With the inspection pit done it the first car to get some work done on it. Only place i had coolant was the V on the engine after pressurising the system i found it, the top nipple on the thermostat housing broke off. Disassemble it, remove the intake and the thermostat housing. I've been searching for a new or a used one, all the used are broken even worse than mine, Peugeot dealership is only one that can source one from france and they want 300 euros, that is my paycheck, so i fired up the lathe, made me a hollow bolt, cut threads, used some high temp silicone and fix it. I bought me a new O'Ring and used some more silicone and installed it, fill it with new G12 coolant assembled everything, took it for a test drive and the intake coupler blow off i lost boost, quickly i assemble it on the side of the road. Simple C clip popped off, then i test the cooling system even harder, i got it a bit sideways hit want looked like brake pad with a back tire it took a chunk out of my back tire.

I'm not that familiar with those cars but to find the fuel pressure, just read the numbers from the fuel pressure regulator and google them it will show, or you can google the fuel injectors. If i have to guess, it should be around 3 Bar. I'm interested to learn more about those 2.2 turbo engines, from what i've heard they are something special.

Running lean or running reach is sometimes difficult to tell by ear, but you can pull the spark plugs and read them, they will show. Just google reading spark plugs there is lot of information.

Jay, any progress on the test drive?

I'm pretty sure my little niva has the same lights, with small tabs at the back that can be pulled off and they are dirt cheap like 5$ a piece, and good quality made from steel and glass. Here is a link : http://bhv-bg.com/bg/headlight-osvar/p2019.html

Diff uses 80W90 gear oil. Smoke is probably water in fuel, or fuel in the exhaust, if memory serves you hydrolocked this engine, all that fuel went in the exhaust. More you run the engine with fresh fuel it will run better, i often find that piston rings loosen up when car is driven and used the engine slow down the car on decell. I hope this makes sense and helps

I go with good and tighten, on spark plugs you'll feel it stop, 1/4 turn from hand tight is a good point to start, try a bit harder if it turns a bit more then leave it there. Also check the transmission fluid, automatics have a habit to leak if not used for a long time.

I'm pretty sure he was hitting revlimiter in couple of gears, traction was a big issue, i have 245 tires on the 607 and much more weight pressing on them and still traction control was kicking in. I have no doubt if we were on a mountain road he would be gone, the 607 is a boat even with electric suspension. I'm not sure if the sport suspension helps but with the gearbox in sport there is a noticeable difference in the power, seams to hit higher boost espacily in 4th,5th and 6st speed. I've driven 206 gti 136hp, it's a good city car a bit unstable at speed and under braking, much worse than a 205 gti.

SRDT i was surprised, i totally expected to get gaped in the beginning and to have to catch him but the 607 got him on the start and i could see him on every gear change lose ground at the end we got up hill he couldn't keep up. The 6 speed auto in the 607 has a big advantage in a straight line. It's the torque that's impressive and gets the 2 Tone moving in a hurry.

Welcome to the forum Aaron, nice looking car serviceable items, like oil and filters, i'm sure you can fine in any big parts store or you can go to the importer and buy a whole box, but you need to do some research, find the part number and cross reference numbers and ask for them. Brake discs, pads your best bet is ebay.uk, shipping can be expensive but parts are not too expensive. Do you find the gearing to short, i've raced a black RC few days ago and bit it with my 2Tone 607 diesel.

Spray it some lubricante WD 40 use a big straight screwdriver on the side of the screw, use a small hammer and tap the screwdriver, a little on every knoch, it unscrows.

Remove the old one and take them to a parts store to match them, i cut my old hoses diagonally so they can come off easily, be careful at the external fuel pump is plastic and the sender unit at the fuel tank. There is also a small peice of fuel line at the drivers side rear door, i've had to replace it couple of times.

i've seen rubber fuel line collapse on the inside, all lines on the 405 are straight, and at 30 years old is good to replace them, rubber fuel line can be bought at any parts store, buy stainless hose clamps, if a rember right, there are 2-3 sizes on it be sure to buy high pressure fuel line.

Perhaps the intake pump is not letting enough fuel in the external pump and because of that you are getting low flow. Its having to pull instead of pushing fuel, because you intake pump is not working.

That is a pressure buffer, it keeps the fuel pressure more even, car can run without it, but is installed for a reason, simple brass barbed fitting, can be used to bypass it, just connect the hoses. I'm not sure how can it fail, its a diaframma with a spring if it's blocked there must be something blocking it, try blowing it out if you found dirt then change the fuel filter and blow out the fuel lines.

The fuel pump is cycling the fuel thru the fuel rail and back in the tank when is running, so no bubbles. Here in europe we go two models of the Mi16 engine, low compression 9.5:1 making 147hp and high compression 10.5:1 making 160hp in the late 80's that was very impressive power from a normally aspirated engine with no variable valves and no turbo. Did you find the white wire that goes to the fuel pump in the black box on the left side of the engine. Jump power to it put the hose from the fuel rail in a fuel can and watch all the old gas come out.

The 160hp Mi16 engine have higher compression they like premium gasoline, my mi16x4 was pulling timing on 95 octane, i've run 100 octane gasoline in it or LPG wich is 104 octane. As for the US models i think they have 9.5:1 compression so they need 93 octane to run to its full power but for starting it doesn't matter.

Draining the old gas should be easy if you have the fuel line disconnected, i would advise get as much of the old gasoline out and fill it with fresh gas. Filling the fuel rail with gas won't do anything that gasoline needs to be at 3 bar pressure to spray.