keebs

When you cycle the key to run they do a short prime then shut off until an rpm signal is seen.

If it doesn't prime I'd say tachymetric. If you cant find another relay it could probably be replaced with 2 regular 30a relays. You could have a combination failure of the hall and tachymetric just by coincidence since the problem started in the rain and now it's constant.

Take a look at the hall sensor and connections on the dizzy. Does the fuel pump prime when you turn the key?

It won't happen at high speed, but under high lateral load or when mounting tires. I don't have an example of this failure and I'm glad I've never heard of one. Cast aluminum is a dirty metal to weld so it can be hard to get it clean enough for a good bond. Generally structural cast aluminum should be replaced instead of welded since its prone to cracking at the weld. Bottom line, I would only weld a rim in this fashion if I was doing the welding, tire mounting, and driving. Still I would only drive it on a track, but hey I'm a certified welder what do I know.

I would never circumference weld the bead area on a cast aluminum wheel even if pre-heated then tempered afterwards. I'm not concerned about your safety, but the safety of the poor kid that might lose his life mounting the tires. If anybody needs wheels I have spares that I would consider parting with if makes us all a bit safer.

Any 10si or 12si, maybe even a cs130. The 10si only has about a 60a output so I wouldn't recommend it. To make one fit the lower mounting point needs to be trimmed to fit the bracket and the case ground down on one side to gain engine clearance. I can't remember but I think I had to do a minor rewire to work. There may be better fitting alternators out there, I just happened to have this kind laying around.

If that doesn't work out there are still a few alternator shops out there that will repair it. Another option is to mount a GM alternator, they're cheap and probably the most popular alternator on earth so parts will never be an issue.

Guess I walked away from the screen too long while typing and Rabin beat me to it.

Your alternator is the culprit. Check for loose connections and loose belts. After those check out, check if the batt voltage is 13>15 volts while engine is at idle then raise rpm to 2500 it should remain consistent. If you have too many accessories (big stereo, electric fans) the alternator might not have enough output at idle to run everything.

Post some measurements of the joint and yokes. You never know, they might even be tractor parts.

I'd call that pretty darn lucky, but sounds so time consuming to fix. Don't even mention the weather, it's bad on both ends. About 0c here and I bet about -20c where rabin is. Out of curiosity what's the temperature range in your neck of the woods.

Man that is super slick. I wish my old zdj had one of those with a waste spark system. Years back I was offroad racing my pristine zdj 505 (A/C full blast temp gauge off the charts with an auto trans to boot) and the coil lead popped off. Talk about hot hands. Any updates on your car, you've got us on the edge our seats with anticipation.

I'm not using an edis module since I still have the dizzy. On the factory setup the n9t only has a hall sensor in the dizzy with 4 windows (one every 180 degrees). The ecu (bosch, vems, etc) counts the time between trigger events to get an rpm/spark signal. With a low tooth count lots can happen between each event, and with the added chain slack and gear lash induced by a dizzy mounted trigger tolerances start to stack up effecting time between events. So with a 4 window crank trigger it's 4-6 degrees worth of scatter. A 36-1 crank trigger has 9x the teeth giving 9x the resolution without any gear/chain lash. If it was to be a 60-2 wheel we would have 15x the resolution of the 4 tooth dizzy. Note that ecu's use the time between teeth to calculate position, so more teeth= more datum points= more accuracy. All that aside, I only mounted a crank trigger since you need a primary and secondary trigger to run full sequential injection.

It's added on. The center of the trigger wheel was cut out, other than that its the perfect diameter. I didn't use the edis module just standard trigger settings, in the future I'll make a valve cover with coil mounts and a sensor hole that reads a tdc marker on the cam so the distributor will be removed completely. That's all for personal aesthetics though, the current setup is more than capable. I have a coil that outputs around 120mj at 3ms burn time, so it doesn't really get much better.

Finally got around to getting it mounted. The pic is crap, shoulda remembered to take it when the radiator was out. You can't see it but the pulley had about 5mm shaved off so the trigger wheel clears the block by 1-2mm. It was pretty quick and easy but would need a different sensor location I had an ac compressor. Stock dizzy has about 4-6 degrees of scatter 36-1 gives .5 and 60-2 about .25. The flywheel is the way to go if you want an oem look and the engines out. For me this is accurate enough, easily serviceable, and if need be the wheel can be taken off and repositioned.

It's between the wiper relay and door lock thing. It might not be blue.

Rabin, I'm having my crank pulley machined as we speak to fit a 36-1 ford edis trigger. I'll post some pics later so you can get an idea of what needs to be done.

Sounds like you're almost there. Too bad about the 505s it seems like a third of the peugeots out there are for parts, the other third don't run right, and the rest aren't for sale. I've got 3 505s, one in each stage.

Watch out 505s tend to multiply without warning. How's the tuning progressing.

I smell an international challenge brewin.

If it's just the starter sticking I'd call that a lucky break since they're fairly cheap and easy to replace.

Nope.

Well first pull off the valve cover and take a look to see if shes loose, it's down near the balancer. If it is loose the rad, water pump, balancer, power steering/alternator brackets, and entire front cover need to be pulled to get at it. After that rest assured the tensioner will spite you by falling in the oil pan.

Rich condition could be a bad ntc sensor connection or unhappy air meter. How's the afr under full throttle? This has a direct correlation to start up fuel before the o2 sensor starts working. I had the same grinding/knocking noise, turned out my cam chain tensioner came loose.

20 degrees at max rpm .5 bar scaled down 1.5 degrees per 1k rpm should be a safe starting point on just about any engine at that pressure. On boost max power is limited by det so creep up .5-1 degree at a time until you start to hear it and back off. Off boost egt and fuel consumption should get it dialed in nicely. That 358ci was only tuned using a wideband and distributor dyno. I hear you on getting the ports to flow evenly, the biggest hurdle is getting a single carb to fuel right on a road course. No thanks necessary Stewart. Threads like this might just open peoples minds to whats possible with a bit of tinkering.