TJP55

I found a remanufactured alternator on eBay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-Industries-Alternator-A1273-/380981905639 I installed it today and it's working fine.

OReilly could not find a replacement alternator. They refunded the purchase price and allowed me to keep the alternator. A replacement alternator is also not available at Autozone. I guess I'll see if I can find someone to repair it. Which GM alternators would fit my 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo?

The alternator has 14,000 miles on it. It's an Autolite 15647 alternator from OReilly auto parts. I measured the voltage at idle and it was only 11.6 volts. I took it back to OReilly and they tested it and confirmed it was bad. It came with a lifetime warranty, but OReilly doesn't carry it anymore. They are looking for a replacement. If they can't find one, they'll probably just issue a refund. I see that Autozone still shows a Duralast alternator for the 1986 Peugeot 505.

The battery light on the dashboard of my 1986 Peugeot 505 Gas turbo has started lighting up when driving the car. This has never happened before. It seems to go off at higher rpm, but returns at idle. Is this a problem with the alternator, battery or something else? Everything seems to be working fine otherwise. The alternator is five years old and the battery is 4 years old.

Thanks for the information. I just noticed that the Shop Manual PDF that I was looking at was for ABS brakes. I'm planning on replacing the brake fluid. I got a new master cylinder reservoir from Western Hemisphere, but it didn't come with the rubber seals and I'm having trouble finding replacements as mine have deteriorated.

I recently took the 1986 Peugeot 505 Gas Turbo up a mountain to do some hiking. On the way down I experienced severe brake fade. After getting down the hill, the brake pedal was really spongy and had little braking effect. I pulled over and checked the master cylinder reservoir and the fluid was full and there were no leaks. After the brakes cooled down, they seemed to work fine. For awhile now, the steering wheel would shake when I applied the brakes over 40 mph. Suspecting the rotors, I measured them and they were down to 15 mm. Mine are vented non-ABS. I think the minimum is supposed to be 18mm. I purchased new discs from Western Hemisphere. I also purchased wheel bearing rebuild kits since I had to take the hub off to replace the discs. I'm putting it all back together, but I confused as to how to torque the hub nut. The Haynes manual says to tighten the hub nut to 30 lbf ft, then loosen it and re-tighten it to 7 lbf ft, then loosen it 1/8 turn and lock it. The Peugeot workshop manual says to fit the nut backwards without the washer and tighten and then remove the nut and fit the washer and tighten the nut to 207 lbf ft. Which procedure is right? It didn't seem that the nut was that tight when I removed it. It took very little effort to remove it originally. On the other hand, when I tighten the hub nut to 30 lbt ft, the hub was still very loose on the stub axle and moved around a lot.

I checked the torque tube clearance and the exhaust clearance. Nothing was touching, but I found that an exhaust pipe clamp that I had removed during the clutch replacement was very near the torque tube. I loosened the clamp and moved it back so that it had more clearance from the torque tube. When I drove the car today, it did not make the rumbling noise. I'll have to take the car out on the freeway and see if the noise returns.

There were no metallic particles in the diff oil that I could see. I don't know if it was full, but a lot drained out, so I know it wasn't dry.

Since replacing the clutch, there is a strange rumbling sound on acceleration coming from the rear somewhere after the transmission. Possibly the differential. It only happens after I have been driving on the freeway and exit to city streets. I replaced the differential oil when I replaced the clutch. I used Castrol Limited Slip 80W90 gear oil. I recently added Lubeguard Limited Slip Supplement to try and get rid of the noise, but it just made things worse. I'm not sure what's going on. Perhaps I damaged something in the differential when I moved it during clutch replacement? What gets me is that it only happens after I drive on the freeway.

I replaced the O2 sensor, but the problem remains. When I first start the car with the engine cold, I get 7.9 volts. It stays at 7.9 volts as the engine warms up. Then something kicks in and the reading drops to around 3.5 to 4 volts and stays in that range.

Is the Bosch 13004 the right O2 sensor for 1986 Peugeot 505 Turbo N9TE?

The car has 156,000 miles on it. No drop in fuel economy, still averages 25 mpg. The cap, rotor and plug wires were replaced 13 years ago. They still appear to be in pretty good shape though.

The O2 sensor is original. It's never been changed. The injectors are original and have never been cleaned or flow tested. The fuel pressure regulator was replaced 10 years ago. The air filter is old, but is still clean.

It's smog check time for my 1986 Peugeot 505 Gas Turbo in California. Although it has always passed smog check before, this time I'm a little worried. I've gone through my usual tune up routine of cleaning and regapping spark plugs, replacing the oil and oil filter, checking the timing, etc. However, I've recently discovered wire 22 on the inner right fender. The manual says it should measure 7.2 volts plus or minus 0.2 volts. Mine measures 5 volts? This means I'm running rich? What would cause this? The car runs fine. However the rpm at idle goes up and down a little. In California, I'm not allowed to adjust the richness screw as any tampering would cause it to fail smog check.

I finally finished replacing the clutch. The Peugeot is back on the road. Hopefully I won't have to do it again for another 90,000 miles.or so. Next time I should be able to do it in 3 days instead of 3 weeks. Thanks for your help.