Guest adegnes Posted February 26, 2007 Report Share Posted February 26, 2007 Since my "rebuild of wiring harness" thread has drifted FAR away from it's original subject, I've decided to start a new thread on my 505turbo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted February 28, 2007 Report Share Posted February 28, 2007 Some pics, totaly stripped interior(exept door covers), heater removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 1, 2007 Report Share Posted March 1, 2007 Custom dash... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 2, 2007 Report Share Posted March 2, 2007 Painted the dash and added some sticker's... (sorry for the bad photos, my camera has some focus issues...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 3, 2007 Report Share Posted March 3, 2007 update: SInce look's is'nt what I'm going for, I've decided to just cut out a piece of sheetmetal, slightly overlapping the sunroof hole, and just bolt it on, with some silicone to seal it.... this will certainly be the most lightweight sollution.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest CATALIN505 Posted March 8, 2007 Report Share Posted March 8, 2007 Intristing idea...more details and photo pls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 10, 2007 Report Share Posted March 10, 2007 Removed the ABS brake master yesterday, wonder what I'm going to replace it with... any suggestions? Maybe one from the volvo 200, 700 or 900 series, theres alot of those cars around here, i should be able to get hold of one cheap... I'll get some pics posted later today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 custom electrical system under construction (for everything exept engine): no limit to what you can do with kitchen accesories... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 I'm wondering what kind of brake-system I'll go for... Could get a brakemaster with vacumbooster from a non ABS 505 or, maybe ditch the powerbrake sytem and bolt a bigger cylinder directly to the pedal, wonder if I can get enough force with no power assistance...? I own a Wartburg 353 1969 (old east german 2-stroke car) it has no power assistance on the brake system, and brakes just fine... seen alot of racecars without assistance to... hmm.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 13, 2007 Report Share Posted March 13, 2007 Ideally - getting something like a Tilton dual master cylinder would be the trick way to go. The have separate masters for front and rear with a bias bar between the two that allows you to adjust brake bias front and rear. It's a manual set up (no booster) so depending on what calipers you use, you could size the masters accordingly. Volvo 4 piston calipers bolt onto the Pugs with no problems (need the 240 Turbo calipers or the ones for vented disks) but they'd be a nice cheap upgrade. (Heavy - but good.) Keep us posted - it's looking decent! I'm also impressed with your progress - keep up the good work! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 14, 2007 Report Share Posted March 14, 2007 Volvo 4 piston calipers bolt onto the Pugs with no problems (need the 240 Turbo calipers or the ones for vented disks) but they'd be a nice cheap upgrade. (Heavy - but good.) The volvo calipers are "bolt on" fit, no modifications needed? There's ALOT of 240 tuning people around where I live, and ALOT of upgrade calipers available... I'll look into it... Any suggestions for coilover's? could it be that vovlo parts can be used here to... hmm... It should be easy to find something to fit the rear axel, but the front's harder... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 Hmm... suppose this one could be fitted with minimum hassel... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 The calipers bolt to the strut and have proper spacing for the disk yes - but the Volvo calipers from the 240 also have two brake lines per caliper. Two circuits are used - one set of pistons on each front caliper and one rear caliper on each circuit - so if one circuit is comprimised - it will still brake both front wheels. The dual master set up is definitely trick - but make sure there's a way to adjust brake bias. A balance bar between the two masters is a simple elegant design, or a bias valve on the rear line would work too. As for the calipers available - I checked here for other lighter calipers that may be used for the 240 Turbo since they'd bolt onto the Peugeot too - but apparently nobody really upgrades them since they're quite good already. I found one guy that used aluminum Mazda RX7 calipers on the Volvo - but it needed spacers and an adapter to fit it. If you find any sources for bolt on caliper upgrades for the 240 Volvo - keep us posted! BTW - with a little modifying of the bracket - the front calipers from a non turbo 505 will fit on the 505 rear disks. No park brake assembly - but there's a way to set up a hydraulic parking brake using a clutch master to actuate the rear disks... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 AP Racing brakes for the 240's: http://www.khmotorsport.se/shop/page67.htm sorry, it's in swedish... REALLY expensive!! 22400SEK for the front axel, thats ca. 3700USD!!! The calipers only, is ca. 900USD each. http://www.khmotorsport.se/shop/page442.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metako Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I think the Sumitomo 4 piston calipers from the Toyota Hilux light truck may fit the 505/240. They are alloy and light and fairly cheap. I think the mounting bolt spacing is the same but have never tried it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 Ordered a pair of seats and a rear muffler today: - seat's - Muffler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted March 20, 2007 Report Share Posted March 20, 2007 How many mufflers will you have, totally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 21, 2007 Report Share Posted March 21, 2007 one... My experience is that the high pitched, ugly sound you get from poor silencing, is usually dampened by the turbin housing on turbo cars... If it gets too loud, I'll add a small, straight through silencer from simon's racing (cheap) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 22, 2007 Report Share Posted March 22, 2007 I'm going to fit a piece of sheetmetal where the backseats was, to seal of the trunk from the coupe, then I wont need a batterybox. Location of battery: Some pic's of the new dash, will add on it to make it follow the crossmember all the way on each side. got lights! Trying out the wiring: more coming soon... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 engine bay: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSB Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 I've decided to start a new thread on my 505turbo. This is cool ! Is there a particular formula (or catagory of racing) that you are building it to ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 23, 2007 Report Share Posted March 23, 2007 This is cool ! Is there a particular formula (or catagory of racing) that you are building it to ? Thank's! No, not really, its moe of a "just for fun" project... I see you have some experience with wheel spacers on your car. I'm thinking about making a set to fit some bigger wheels with a narrower bolt pattern. To reset the changed offset, maybe some adjustable strut tower's would do the trick...? Hmm... something like this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SSB Posted March 24, 2007 Report Share Posted March 24, 2007 Thank's! No, not really, its moe of a "just for fun" project... I see you have some experience with wheel spacers on your car. I'm thinking about making a set to fit some bigger wheels with a narrower bolt pattern. To reset the changed offset, maybe some adjustable strut tower's would do the trick...? Hmm... something like this: Funny, I was just looking at something today to adjust camber. It was a very simple slotted plate from a Volve 740. But (at least for racing or a track car) the car already has -3 degrees camber (hold your hands in front of you, finger tips in, at 45 degree angles then think about leaning into a corner). What you'll find is the inside tire has lost contact with the surface of the road). What you want is + caster. My car is bent and has more caster than most anyway. I hope I'm not preeching to the quire (meaning you already know all that) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Adjustible strut mounts will only let you play with camber and sometimes caster (depends on the unit) - offset won't be affected - so you'll need to do the math so that the inside edge of the rim is within 10mm of the strut housing. (As close as possible with not rubbing) You'll need to do some math to figure out which wheel to use so that it fits properly. I worked it out with mine and I'm going with re-drilled hubs with a 5x120 BMW 5 series bolt pattern and wheel. The 7" wide BMW wheel with a 20mm offset is supposed to fit perfectly. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest adegnes Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Adjustible strut mounts will only let you play with camber and sometimes caster (depends on the unit) - offset won't be affected - so you'll need to do the math so that the inside edge of the rim is within 10mm of the strut housing. (As close as possible with not rubbing) You'll need to do some math to figure out which wheel to use so that it fits properly. I worked it out with mine and I'm going with re-drilled hubs with a 5x120 BMW 5 series bolt pattern and wheel. The 7" wide BMW wheel with a 20mm offset is supposed to fit perfectly. Rabin Hmm... What I ment was; if I manufacture a two axis adjustable strut mount, maybe I could "reset" a change in offset by tweaking camber/caster... Dont know if this is possible though...? The spacers I'm thinking of getting manufactured will be pretty beefy: something like this, but with changed bolt pattern: But, If I can get hold of some decent wheels, with enough offset (maybe as much as 70mm!!) I guess I can forget the whole adjustable strut thingie.... I want these wheels:! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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