505 V6 Twin Turbo <--- hell yes!

[august]

I've heard quite a few people on the peugeot-l list talk about doing a twin turbo PRV 505 v6 motor, but that seems to be the end of it (or maybe they actually did fully complete it, get 800hp out of their 505, and never talked to us again, bastards!) j/k.

The post yesterday about the Proxima is interesting because it turns out they did actually use the same 2.8 V6, but beefed it up, and turbo charged it.. the 140hp -> 600hp gain is rather interesting..

I'd imagine we could find after market parts for the motor though, being its used by delorian, and volvo which are obviously both available in this country.. hmmm

[august]

505 manifolds:

more on this thread:

http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/showthrea...2818#post242818

[august]

(John Lane post to the delorean list regarding his monster PRV volvo motor)

Subj:    Re: PRV 500 HPs?????

Date:  04/09/2003 8:41:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time

From:  jlane@(John Lane)

To: Senatorpack

Hello to all who are interested in making their PRV break drivetrain

parts.  I have been hugely successful in doing just that.

I have had a number of queries as to how I have made my toy just sooo

darned  silly fast.  Here goes.....

I am using the engine block with the cross-bolted main bearings and

oil to water oil cooler  as used in the Volvo B-280.

I am using the cylinder heads of an Eagle Premier/Dodge Monaco, as the

intake ports of the Premier are MUCH better then Volvo used.  Set

them side by side to see how Volvo managed to choke the V-6 back to

making less power then the turbo-4.

The heads got ported on the intake side to tidy up a bit, and a LOT in

the exhaust to help that ugly mess.

The camshafts of the Volvo flavor will give better top end power, and

alloy rocker arms are readily available from Volvo.  The Volvo cams

are of the mechanical variety, so you will get to adjust valves.  I

have not tried the Premier cams with their hydraulic valve lash

adjusters for anything but a street engine,  but in that form it ran

just fine naturally aspirated.  The Premier cams are certainly of the

flavor which will make for more low end power.

I use the throttle body as used in the Volvo engine as it is of larger

diameter, and it is aimed better for the turbo.

For pistons I am using J&E forged slugs with a dish in them to drop

compression to 8 to 1.

I am using the liners from the Premier for three liters of

displacement.  More cubes is more fun all else being equal.

I have learned the hard way that the standard connecting rods are not

up to the task.  When it blew up,  all the rods except for the one

that made shrapnel were shorter by one to two mm.  Too many parts were

missing from the broken rod to guess how much shorter it was before it

expired.  Yikes!!  Forced induction will push a LOT harder on everything.

My answer for that was to pick out an Eagle Racing connecting rod

(think Merikanski V-8 stuff which is made by the bajillion and

therefore relatively affordable) which is close dimensionally to what

we need and have the machinist go wild to make 'em work.  Lots of

effort for rods which have not had to be babysat since.  Just the way

I like 'em.

The whole rotating mess got balanced with the flywheel and the clutch.

The turbo is a nice big T-04 that I had made up for me based on my

requirements.

The turbo manifold was made up special to get from the exhaust

manifolds to the turbo.

I use an HKS external wastegate, and am as tickled as can be with how

it works.  I am not fond of internal wastegates.  Boost creep and

other naughtiness....

Oil gets to the turbo via a metal braided hose which is tapped into

the big plug next to the oil filter.  I have never checked my oil

pressure, but have had zero oiling issues.  If it don't sieze, it has

to be all good right? I use Mobil One synthetic oil.

Oil from the turbo drain gets back to the pan via the hole in the

upper pan (as used in Volvo) next to the hole used for the dipstick.

Volvo used this hole in the 760 for an oil level sensor.  We don't

need it.  We service and pay attention to our engines right?

The turbo feeds it's warm compressed air to a Ford Powerstroke Diesel

intercooler fitted in front of the radiator.  Ignore what the

naysayers snivel about with having a huge intercooler.  It is the

ONLY way to go compared with a smaller less efficient unit.

Fuel and ignition is handled with Electromotive  laptop programmable

fuel infection and ignition.  With this system, or a similar

arrangement one can have perfect drivability with legal emissions and

monster power in boost.  Careful though.....One is only a couple of

keystrokes away from blowing it up should you get it wrong.  It is the

incentive program.....Do Not get it wrong.

I had the nice folks at Electromotive supply me with the proper size

injectors along with a fuel pressure regulator and all the GM sensors

I needed to do this.  It uses a MAP sensor, so no air mass meter to

fail, or be in the way of free flowing air.    Now I have a MAP

sensor to fail, but have not experienced that yet.

I am using the fuel pump arrangement as used in later model Mercedes

V-8 and V-12 cars.  This an arrangement that the wrecking yard will

be happy to sell you for around $150.00, and it will feed as much

power as we are going to make.  You will need larger fuel supply lines.

I am using the exhaust manifolds of the Volvo as they clear my

steering linkage.  The manifolds in the Premier look better for flow,

but will not fit in my car without a lot of work.  The Volvo

manifolds do not seem to be slowing me down. : )

My flywheel is the Volvo thing; lightened on the brakelathe, and then

fitted with a Quarter Master three disc clutch.  The  On-off switch

which WILL apply all that power.

WARNING:  This combination has resulted in my breaking EVERY part in

the drivetrain downstream of the engine.

It will make HUGE torque,  and everything must be up to the task,  or

you will have many expensive misadventures with breaking things in

inconvenient places.  All in good fun though.

I have had a few folks ask how much dough it takes to do this.  The

short answer is a LOT.  I did my project slowly over

time.......Electromotive got done while it was naturally aspirated.

It made a noticeable improvement over K-Jet.

This is not a project for the weak of spirit or those of us who are

wanting a very straight forward swap.  It is a lot of work, and has

made my rallycar what I believe to be one of the most amusing to drive

and watch here in the states.

I went out of my way to NOT keep track of how much dough I have in

this project......Remember......Complete drivetrain, suspension and

brakes to go with this.  One must not just bolt in a stoopid fast

engine and expect to not have to attend to stopping or turning at high

speeds.  Forgive the soapbox.

Go git  'em guys and gals.

JohnLane.

[august]

more aussiefrog pictures:

[505T]

179 kW = 245 hp. I thought there would be more, but then again what do I know?

[august]

i believe that figure is with stock cams, and a stock bottom end though.. from what i understand, cams make a big difference, then beefing up the bottom end and running more hten 6psi can produce some serious HP.

[Bean]

The aussie guys are using LPG for their turbo V6's as well I believe. I haven't been on there for a while - but I remember a couple that were mentioned a while back and they were LPG for sure. (LPG = natural gas)

Still a very slick set up - and with fuel prices where they are, LPG might be the way to go!

Rabin