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505 turbo lowering springs


Trevor

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LOL - that was just rude August!

Karydas from Greece had a nice bit of ghetto spring mod info for the 505... Benz series 115 rear springs, and one coil cut from the stock front springs.

Supposed to be a 20 mm drop with a nice increase in spring rate. Not sure what the series 115 body style is (haven't checked), but I asked him to find the exact model. So many types - wanna make sure I know the right model to look for.

I still think a nice coil over conversion is possible... I'm going to hold off on that project till after I get the TD ECU sorted out.

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LOL - that was just rude August!

Karydas from Greece had a nice bit of ghetto spring mod info for the 505...  Benz series 115 rear springs, and one coil cut from the stock front springs.

Supposed to be a 20 mm drop with a nice increase in spring rate.  Not sure what the series 115 body style is (haven't checked), but I asked him to find the exact model.  So many types - wanna make sure I know the right model to look for.

I still think a nice coil over conversion is possible...  I'm going to hold off on that project till after I get the TD ECU sorted out.

I've heard you can use mid 80's vette springs on the back of the 505.. I heard this from a guy who races 505 turbo's, then when i asked him about them again, he said to try to find the '505 tow package' rear springs, and cut some coils off them. I'm still cuerious about the vette springs though..

the front springs are great with a coil cut off, i believe 1.5 coils off will just slightly tuck the tire under the fender (but i'll be verifying this within the next few months hopefully). He was also saying that they slightly tuck the front and rear tires with stock suspension for their 505 race cars, he said doing that increases the spring rate and camber just right..

hmmmmmm

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  • 1 month later...

Ok so back to this topic.. I'd like opinions on what kind of spring rate increases would benefit the 505's handling. I want to do some calculations and was looking around online, it appears that aftermarket springs can range anywhere from 7% - 40% rate increase. I want to be on the lower end of that as i feel the suspension is already fairly firm and i dont want a super jerky ride. I was thinking something around 15% rate increase, and a drop of maybe about an inch or possibly a tiny bit more. What do you guys think about rear end vs front end stiffening? I have always felt that the rear is a little more saggy than it should be. Maybe a larger spring rate increase for the rear would be beneficial? Any opinions are welcome!

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The biggest thing to consider with the increasing spring rate is the damping. If you don't do anything with the damping then I'd say 15 - 20% max before you start getting a car that ocillates too much after a suspension event.

Guys in the club get stupid cutting springs and end up destroying the cars handling. They ususally don't have the damping to cope, plus they lower too much and bounce off the bump stops in transitiions - nasty stuff.

My plan so far is to use the original front valving with some heavier racing shock oil (AMSOIL has 2-3 diifferent weights - I'll go a bit heavier than what comes out.), and either cut one coil to see how it works, followed by *maybe* another .5 coil if it can still take it. At the rear I'm thinking of running different shocks with stiffer damping - and the only one that I can think to try is mid 80's front Ford truck shocks. The have the same kind of mounting - but I've never checked length to see if the worked. Some nice adjustable offroad units would be perfect and they're cheap. If they're too long, it's usually not that much to have the rod end machined to the proper length.

Hopefully that will give me the matching damping for the spring rate increase. Coil overs are another possibility - but that would be another winter project... Maybe next year... :)

I'd also like to address the sway bars - and so far I'm thinking of adding a generic racing one from summit racing, or by changing the mounting and style of the endlinks. If you move the mounting closer to the bar mounting you'll decrease the mecanical advantage and the bar will seem stiffer - essentially drilling more holes into the bar at the end and then playing around with the different mounts to see what works. This might involve cutting the current ends off - but that will work like a coil spring as well and increase it's "spring rate" when you remove length.

What do you guys figure?

Rabin

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I think your spot on with the damping ideas. The rear shocks are going to be something on my list pretty soon.. I'm using rear springs cut 1 coil + 2 inches with OE (fairly fresh) rear shocks and its waaay underdampened. The front is dropped 1 full coil and its pretty damn low. hitting the bumpstop just takes a bump in mid corner :)..

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Yeah - I believe it's at nasty thing known as "bump induced oversteer" - when the suspension isn't right and you hit the bump stops mid corner it reeks havoc with the dynamics and usually causes the car to oversteer immediately...

The car is a VERY good handling car so you have to take a VERY hard look at making improvements or the stock car will spank it in every way.

I'm thinking I'll play with stuff in small steps - trick will be to get more damping in the back - so hopefully the Ford truck shocks work. It's going to be a bugger getting it dialed in with all the ghetto mods - but I'm hoping I can luck out with a decent combo that makes the car more sporty than it currently is and still retains some of the traits I love... Basically stock except for 25% more of everything.... :)

Rabin

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