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WTB Bosch VE 0460404020 Injection Pump


LBC28730

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I’ve been doing a LOT of research on these pumps and the overwhelming conclusion is that simple resealing and work in the top cover is DIY, but once you’re into resealing the body and the internals need to come apart - it really needs a proper test bench to ensure it’s set up properly.

Lots have had “success” just putting a seal kit in, but with no baseline or idea of what they *should* run like it’s a pretty big crap shoot…

That said -pretty sure the o-ring that seals the distribution block might be pretty safe to do, it’s the full tear down and reseal that I’d likely send out so that it could be rebuilt and set up properly.

Rabin

 

 

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51 minutes ago, Bean said:

I’ve been doing a LOT of research on these pumps and the overwhelming conclusion is that simple resealing and work in the top cover is DIY, but once you’re into resealing the body and the internals need to come apart - it really needs a proper test bench to ensure it’s set up properly.

Lots have had “success” just putting a seal kit in, but with no baseline or idea of what they *should* run like it’s a pretty big crap shoot…

That said -pretty sure the o-ring that seals the distribution block might be pretty safe to do, it’s the full tear down and reseal that I’d likely send out so that it could be rebuilt and set up properly.

Rabin

 

 

Understood. 

I'll have to look closer at some of the diagrams and instructions. I wonder if doing just that oring may be an option?

 

It's seems pretty tight, otherwise. 

 

 

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I would run fuel conditioner in it and just get some miles on it first - heat cycles and use could resolve it over time.

I bought my sedan knowing the IP leaked, but when we got it going and I drove it 8 hours home it was leak free after that.

It’s now sat for a couple years, so will see what happens when I get it running again.

Rabin

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16 hours ago, Bean said:

I would run fuel conditioner in it and just get some miles on it first - heat cycles and use could resolve it over time.

I bought my sedan knowing the IP leaked, but when we got it going and I drove it 8 hours home it was leak free after that.

It’s now sat for a couple years, so will see what happens when I get it running again.

Rabin

Oh wow no kidding? 
For diesel fuel treatment, do you mean something with a cetane additive?

I did find your thread on the AAZ hybrid IP, really interesting stuff. DId you every put that hybid in action? 
As an aside, I would really like to know what the rest of (was it Jordan?) tattoo on his left forearm says, since it ends with "ici" so I assume it HAS to be François! ;)

I am familiar with the AAZ/VW as I had a 1981 Caddy with a 1998 German Market AAZ (last year of the fully mechanical version, I believe). It was an absolutely blast!
I have also found very quickly the crossovers between VW and Peugeot with the Bosch VE pumps. 

I have found a guy actually here in North Carolina that does a lot of VW reseals and then I found his eBay page where he does a variety of IPs. (Hans Autoparts, Rothenbacher Enterprises)

Ironically enough, I was talking with a friend from Hungary who lives here in Asheville, now. 
He builds diesel race Semi trucks (I was blown away to even know people in the US were doing that, and it's quite a huge scene. The Yanks still don't REALLY know what Rally racing is, though).

I brought up your insights when we were discussing this, as you have done such extensive research and real world application, and I asked him about the need to have a bench test on an IP that had been fully dismantled and sealed. 
His take was that the VE pumps are widely resealable with 99% success and the other 1% being things that can be realistically addressed without bench testing. 
I may be mixing things up but were you suggesting that the VE would need bench calibration after a reseal?
His logic that that most of the internal "settings" on these pumps were governed by the appropriate spring rates and that, a pump that was just resealed should not act much differently that it did, before. 

He also agreed that, that leak could very likely be addressed without complete disassembly but of course if I can alleviate it with fuel additive I am 100% in . 

Thanks so much for your insight and interest in helping out a complete Puegeot noob but immediate enthusiast!

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The calibration thing if getting into the guts to reseal it was from seeing the experienced guys on VWDiesel.net comment on post after post when guys tried resealing their pumps and then had issues after.

The bench calibration thing for rebuild was to just make sure the pump is actually working and calibrated properly - things like internal pump pressures that will have huge implications on how the pump runs.

I don’t doubt you’d be able to reseal it and have it working again, but how would you know if it was fully optimized and running the best it could? That’s some of the reasons I ran across for just getting the pump professionally rebuilt, calibrated, and tuned.

Giles at Performance Diesel in Canada was WIDELY commented on the VWdiesel.net site of being one of the best VE pump builders, and it was said many times that if you can afford it, it’s the best money spent.

Sadly the pump is still boxed - project ground to a halt due to busy kids/life - but I still have EVERYTHING, and I’m hoping to resurrect it.  The sedan was meant to be a parts car for the wagon to make it a 5sp, but I wavered and figured both cars are so rare they should both be saved!

Both cars have rust issues, with the wagon dog legs and rear quarters being pretty bad.  Sedan isn’t bad, but has rust in the front fenders, and spots around the car.

The idea for now is to get the sedan running and then decide what to do.

BTW - the leaking pump might just be a leaking pump for a reason, but it sounded like it may have been sitting. Definitely worth a try to see if it comes back on its own, but I’d only give it 1 - 2 weeks, and only if it’s very slight / weeping kind of leak - if it’s a good drip then new is likely best.

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11 hours ago, Bean said:

The calibration thing if getting into the guts to reseal it was from seeing the experienced guys on VWDiesel.net comment on post after post when guys tried resealing their pumps and then had issues after.

The bench calibration thing for rebuild was to just make sure the pump is actually working and calibrated properly - things like internal pump pressures that will have huge implications on how the pump runs.

I don’t doubt you’d be able to reseal it and have it working again, but how would you know if it was fully optimized and running the best it could? That’s some of the reasons I ran across for just getting the pump professionally rebuilt, calibrated, and tuned.

Giles at Performance Diesel in Canada was WIDELY commented on the VWdiesel.net site of being one of the best VE pump builders, and it was said many times that if you can afford it, it’s the best money spent.

Sadly the pump is still boxed - project ground to a halt due to busy kids/life - but I still have EVERYTHING, and I’m hoping to resurrect it.  The sedan was meant to be a parts car for the wagon to make it a 5sp, but I wavered and figured both cars are so rare they should both be saved!

Both cars have rust issues, with the wagon dog legs and rear quarters being pretty bad.  Sedan isn’t bad, but has rust in the front fenders, and spots around the car.

The idea for now is to get the sedan running and then decide what to do.

BTW - the leaking pump might just be a leaking pump for a reason, but it sounded like it may have been sitting. Definitely worth a try to see if it comes back on its own, but I’d only give it 1 - 2 weeks, and only if it’s very slight / weeping kind of leak - if it’s a good drip then new is likely best.

I remember back when I was into the VW diesels there was a guy in the Netherlands I think,  Dieselkomen or something like that,  can't seem to find him immediately but he was a mad scientist haha!

 

I've definitely heard of Giles.

I'm driving it to see if it gets better,  fingers crossed!

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