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wastegate actuator alternatives


august

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i've been trying to research whats what on actuators. the N9TE->N9TEA actuator is molded into the bracket, and basically not changable, but the N9T actuator is a more common 2 bolt universal actuator from what i've gathered. the actuator that comes with the stage I danielson cylinder head is a N9T compatible actuator, and is supposedly pretty damn stiff.

so, does anyone know any specs on the danielson supplied actuator? I'm wondering if its a -31 garrett unit, which seem to be popular umongst the sierra cosworth and turbobrick volvo guys when it comes to upgrading turbos and running more boost.

i've also seen -34, and -51 units as well, but can't find any specifications as to what the hell the numbers mean.

any info appreciated...

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ok, just heard back from someone in the UK regarding the garrett actuators:

-31 lifts at 8psi.

-34 lifts at 14psi.

Best Regards,

Stewart Sanderson

Motorsport Developments.

--cut--

www.remapping.co.uk

Just out of curiousity I'd like to see what the -51 is rated at.. but it looks like the -34 would be a good step up...

also, some pictures of the -31 actuator and markings:

garrett_31_actuator0.jpggarrett_31_actuator1.jpg

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ok for a quick update. i still haven't found the details on the -31 / -34 actuators, but the Collins wastegate is looking tempting as well. some say the garrett actuator are still a better solution, but dont really say why. in any case, here's some details on the Collins unit:

http://www.mongooseexhausts.com/dump_valves.htm

Collins actuators are manufactured to mainly fit the popular Garrett T3, T3.5 & T4 turbo chargers. They are available with the following pressure ratings - 6psi, 8psi, 10psi, 12psi, 14psi, 15psi, 16psi, 18psi, 20psi, & -31.

collins_wg1.jpgcollins_wg2.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hey August,

I read a fantastic article on internal wastegate issues on Subaru's - and the findings were crazy! They were actually measuring 4x the boost pressure in the flange between the wastegate exit and the turbine exit - with tremendous turbulence.

The solution was to go to an external wastegate system and the results were astounding. The same power gain guys were seeing when upgrading to a big turbo were seen using the stock turbo and an external wastegate. Cars ended up being faster with the stock turbo's though since they were building boost faster.

This all had it's limits of course - but the real ticket is to do a custom manifold, run a properly sized quick spooling turbo (GT28) - and the external wastegate.

I realize it's much more cost - but even if you couldn't swing the new turbo - setting up an external wastegate with a custom manifold and using the stock T3 might still be a better option seeing as how the Peugeot exhaust housing design is probably just as bad as the Subaru design.

Just brain storming... :D

Rabin

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The solution was to go to an external wastegate system and the results were astounding. The same power gain guys were seeing when upgrading to a big turbo were seen using the stock turbo and an external wastegate. Cars ended up being faster with the stock turbo's though since they were building boost faster.

aaaawwww that's not what I want to hear! :D

yeah i can totally imagine how your article is right Rabin, and it would be cool to go with a *complete* upgrade, but the idea of doing a custom manifold really turns me off. i'd really like to see a slightly tweaked stock setup, and what it can do. THEN maybe move to something else.

I haven't tried bleeding the stock turbo. I guess the spiking can be controlled somewhat, by adjusting the WG actuator rod and the bleeder. External WG is always a good idea. :)

the collar on the actuator rod has dimples in it so you can only tighten it so far. you can of course cut the rod, but at the same time, the spring in the stock actuator is really soft, so it's easy to 'bottom' it out, which of course you don't want to do.

the bleeding / restriction method will get you more boost, but its not usable, and far from idea in my opinion. I/we have spent a LOT of time testing different methods of altering boost pressure, and the BEST we've found by far is an actuator with a stiffer springs.

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Quick update. I've bought a -34 actuator, and run some tests on it, as well as run some tests on the OEM actuator:

Something to keep in mind for people trying to max the boost with the stock actuator... With the tests I've done, shortening the rod as much as the sleeve allows will result in a 12psi lift pressure. Now, if you have an N9TEA, the electrovalve should increase the boost roughtly 4.35psi (depending on all the engine conditions of course), which *should* put out a total of roughly 16psi (!!). If your actuator spring is a little softer, and lift's at a lower pressure then mine, you could cut a few mm off the end of the actuator rod, but be careful being the rod is fully extended at 15psi.

OEM wastegate actuator:

Outer diameter 76.2mm

Outer body diameter 65mm

Length of actuator rod (bracket body to center of pin) 143mm

Length of rod (bracket base to end of threads) 101mm

Length fuly extended (@ 15psi) 118mm

Length of threaded collar 40mm

Total length of threaded eyelet 44mm

Center of wastegate pin (on turbo) to actuator bracket base 152.5mm

Initial lift 5psi

Fully extended 15psi

Garrett -34 Actuator:

Lift @ 13psi

Fully extended @ +25psi

Rod length (measured from top of the canister to the end of the rod):

Neutral length 0psi = 132mm

Fully extended 25psi = 145mm

....-34 actuator = too stiff. Brand new -31 is on the way

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