paraic Posted July 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 Yes, it is an easy task. The o2 sesnsor is screwed into the catalytic converter, I believe. Though, some ZN3J o2 are installed on exhasut manifold. Anyway, the catalytic converter is under the car, directly under the gearbox. The sensor should have 2 sockets, if it still have factory o2 sensor. Separate the 2 sockets from each other, temporary & test by starting the car to see if any improvement. If no improvement, you can then plug back the sockets. Ikenna So in the interest of a smoother idle I removed the injection ECU and the car has returned to a normal idle. There is still plenty of additional power in the ignition ECU mod so I am more than happy with the change. Not sure what to do with the injection ECU - anyone have an interest in it? Paraic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 So in the interest of a smoother idle I removed the injection ECU and the car has returned to a normal idle. There is still plenty of additional power in the ignition ECU mod so I am more than happy with the change. Not sure what to do with the injection ECU - anyone have an interest in it? Paraic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ikenna Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 Have you considered removing the ECU cover to inspect if any part of the mother board needed resoldering? Considering that it was shipped & the possibilty of the parcel been handled roughly & dropped on hard surface, which could make a diode or something inside to loose contact from the board. I still feel that the problem is with the ECU & not the compatibilty. Because I checked my engine & it belongs to family of ZN3J with catalytic converter, yet it idles well with or without oxygen sensor (will explain that later as an update in a thread i started for my ZN3J injection issues). If the Ignition ecu could be working well, why not the Injection ecu. If the injection ecu is not compatible with the ZN3J in US V6, then the ignition ECU wouldnt have worked in yours. Both are designed to work with each other. Before you finally give up on the ECU, open it & inspect the board first for crack or a spot for re-soldering. You never know. I would indicated interest in the ECU, if only its possible to ship a computer from US to Nigeria, which is not allowed. ECU is regarded as a computer. But it baffled me that I could send the ECU to US, but it cant be shipped from US to Nigeria. Weird! Ikenna. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted July 5, 2012 Report Share Posted July 5, 2012 I wonder if the cooler plugs are necessary, or if an MSD 6A box would help it even out. OR even if the rotor has a different resistance spec than the euro cars. It could even be a difference in temp sensors or something easy like that. Paraic - did Dave put a timing light on it to see if the static timing changed or if there was something he could identify that was a cause / result of the rough running? I would think that it was a timing issue at idle that was the cause - so it should be fairly easy to sort out you would think. I'd be more tempted to have both chips in the ECU's copied so that US spec ECU's could just be socketted and upgraded easily. There's a bunch of Volvo guys that hack these Bosch units and it would be easy and reasonably cheap to have it done as I'm pretty sure they're almost identical to the ECU's the Volvo's use. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paraic Posted July 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 15, 2012 I wonder if the cooler plugs are necessary, or if an MSD 6A box would help it even out. OR even if the rotor has a different resistance spec than the euro cars. It could even be a difference in temp sensors or something easy like that. Paraic - did Dave put a timing light on it to see if the static timing changed or if there was something he could identify that was a cause / result of the rough running? I would think that it was a timing issue at idle that was the cause - so it should be fairly easy to sort out you would think. I'd be more tempted to have both chips in the ECU's copied so that US spec ECU's could just be socketted and upgraded easily. There's a bunch of Volvo guys that hack these Bosch units and it would be easy and reasonably cheap to have it done as I'm pretty sure they're almost identical to the ECU's the Volvo's use. Rabin thanks Rabin and Ikenna for your comments. I have decided to put both ECUs in as Ikenna says they are meant to work with each other. That and the performance is increased with having both in. Dave in Eurocar hasn't looked at the timing issue yet but will probably next week. The only comment he has made thus far is that the exhaust note is different with the Euro ECUs in. I did take both ECUs out and put the originals back in and there was a slight timing issue anyway. So the Euro ECUs are exaggerating an issue that is already there. To be honest the timing is not a big issue and I am so happy with the extra oomph for my V6 that I can say that this was a well worthwhile project and mission accomplished. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend the ignition or both Euro ECUs to anyone looking for that extra surge when needed on their V6s. BTW, I did try to get the bhp measured locally here in Portland, but two shops here refused to take the car in! I'm not sure why, they just said they weren't interested. So I haven't gotten a chance to measure the before and after. Still it will be trivial to do once I find a shop that will take it in. Peugeot did a nice job of making the ECUs accessible and still away from water or other damage. Thanks to all for your contributions. Paraic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcal505 Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Very interesting to hear about the power gains with your ECU conversion. Best of luck -S Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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