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Parting Out 1986 White 505 STI XN6/4HP22


prodimus

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White 1986 505 STI automatic XN6, blue interior.

Sadly, it is time to let go of this car. Only 75,000Kilometers are on the clock, but it has been sitting for years and fuel feed issues are affecting it.

If given a shot of ether it will fire up immediately, and run acceptably until the ether is burned....but no fuel pump sounds are heard, and no smell of gas happens. Not sure why...

I have too many other projects so despite the fact that I got the car as parts for another, yet could not part it out then since it was too good, since I have no time to make it run and then get it on the road, it must go.

Parts which might interest somebody are;

*all 4 doors are good

*trunk lid, with spoiler

*blue leather interior, overall very good with slight wear at driver's door-side edge on seat back...a typical place for wear on that design.

*front fenders are pretty good, minor dents.

*XN6 engine is quiet when it gets fuel, ran well until the feed issue started....I think the gas is nearing superannuation age, too.

*4HP22 shifted well, smoothly last time it was driven.

*three power windows work fine...one is still sleeping.

*all interior and exterior bits are intact and available.

Please let me know before the evening of Sunday April 22 if there is anything you need. We can establish a price when you tell me what you need. Shipping will be your cost.

Car is in Kitchener, Ontario, Canada.

Actual photos as soon as I can load them.

John

519-742-4385

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Hi John,

A very quick and easy test is to simply run 12V direct to the fuel pump bypassing the Tachymetric relay. If it fires - then I'd be way easier to sell a running car. 75k KM is nothing, and if you can make it a running car for cheap, hopefully it'd be harder for you to let go. :)

Good luck!

Rabin

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Hi John,

A very quick and easy test is to simply run 12V direct to the fuel pump bypassing the Tachymetric relay. If it fires - then I'd be way easier to sell a running car. 75k KM is nothing, and if you can make it a running car for cheap, hopefully it'd be harder for you to let go. :)

Good luck!

Rabin

Hello, Rabin;

Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, a car with only 75000 kms on it is still a very young car, despite its having been sitting, (on pavement) for a long long time....covered. The brakes are not seized, and most to the stuff that dies off is still working...even the handbrake is free. I looked underneath again this afternoon and I can still see white paint on the underside of the floors in some places. Lots of stuff is stiffening up, like door hinges, but simple oil drops will help that.

I was looking at the primer pump in the trunk today, trying to figure out how and where to jumper wire it. It seems there is only one wire, but I'm a little hesitant to jump that one wire. Do you suggest to hot wire that pump or the one below the floor?

By the way...this has potential to be a pretty nice old XN6/4HP22 sedan and it is already very, very difficult to contemplate letting it go...(considering all the parts I already have in stock for it)...which is why it's still here after all these years. I have a nice black 85 N9T 5 speed that now needs brake hydraulics attended to,(no brake pedal all of a sudden, with no loss of fluid, no apparent leak anywhere, and a relatively new appearing master cylinder bolted on to the servo. I also have a clean, silver 86 XN6 wagon, (also a 4HP22)...and a couple of other beasts to consume my energy and resources...including the 1970 Fiat 124 Spider and the 1971 Citroen D Special....all of which are somewhat daunting projects in their own right. All have a parts supply I've acquired and squirreled away over time, even the 1989 Renault 21/Eagle Medallion with just 52,500 kms on it from new...and that is a car I do want to use, given it will never have collectible status,since nobody knows what it is, it's a fun car to drive even with an auto box, and it has great seating in it. (It feels faster than the Turbo feels, even with 3 speeds in the slushbox, has 125hp in a lighter, more nimble FWD car). It's a sleeper....

Natter natter natter...I hate to shed cars fro this collection...absolutely hate it. But something has to change, or I will never get them done....

Back to the hot wire idea...which pump, Rabin, and which connection should do it?

I hate to be hesitant before attempting this, but I rather like the idea of not igniting the entire car and other items in my yard, while trying to start it....

John

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Under car pump (under driver side rear seat) is the pump you should jump. It should be obvious once you look under the car and can see the terminals. Pretty sure the ground is the yellow/green wire so it's easy to figure out.

I usually just grab another battery and apply it direct to the pump to ensure it's working - then fire it up if is.

Biggest concern with a sitting car is fuel tank corrosion so it might need to get the fuel tank acid cleaned, but other than that it should be fairly straight forward to get going.

Too far to really make use of your offer to part out, and a damn shame to have to part out a car with only 75k KM on it. Hopefully you can get it running and someone on Peugeot-L can snap it up and get it going.

I also remember e-mailing you back and forth a while back off of Peugeot-L - we all seem to be a whacky bunch when it comes to these cars! As for your comment on the 85 Turbo being slower than your Renault 21 - I've never been in a 21 so I can't say for certain, but I'd guess your 505 Turbo needs to get sorted out. :) Off boost yes, but on boost it should be quicker.

Rabin

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I was looking at the primer pump in the trunk today, trying to figure out how and where to jumper wire it. It seems there is only one wire, but I'm a little hesitant to jump that one wire. Do you suggest to hot wire that pump or the one below the floor?

probably a good idea to try hotwiring your primary (underfloor) pump. but -- the in-tank pump has two wires. here's a pic from my build thread, my car is also an '86 with the xn6/4hp22 combo:

IMG_7142.jpg

as you can see, there should be a black wire and a red wire, they are soldered to the leads at the top of the fuel pump assembly....since the in-tank pump is held in place by a bit of FI hose and a rubbery seal (inside the ring at the bottom of the assembly, not visible in this photo), there is no way for the pump to be grounded except for the second wire. so that's another thing you can check out...parts cars are great, but it's always nice if a car can be kept on the road...smile.gif

andré

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