1320Turbo Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Alright so the story, I can get my old car back for $250 however it needs a valve job. Is it possible to buy the parts for this or is that just a wasted effort? Would it be easier to just buy another head? Where could I locate a good one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nick@nite Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1761 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320Turbo Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 lol, so my cylinder head is going to cost twice as much as my entire car? lolololol. That's a reasonable price but it's just funny when you think about it. Is it possible to rebuild the head I have on the car now or is the chance of getting those parts nearly nill. Would it be possible to swap in another motor? Like a Non N9T without a huge hassle? Maybe drop in something that's easier to get parts for, maybe an SR20 swap from a 240? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Yes that's a good price on the head, yes it's funny it's x2 the cost of the car - but that's only funny 'cause you're getting the car stupid cheap. No an engine swap won't be less hassle, or cheaper in any way shape or form. Rebuild parts are still available for a head ($$$), but if your head is cracked (likely), you're looking at easily over $1K to fix it properly. If the car is in good shape - you'll have it on the road for $1K total with the replacement head from Clay. That said - if that car isn't as good as the 88' for sale on Craigslist in NJ - it likely isn't the better of the two cars even if the purchase price is $250. You mentioned lots of rust before on this car - so if it was me I wouldn't waste my time on a rusty car. (Sounds like a great parts car though) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320Turbo Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 there's no body rust (minus like a tiny tiny spot on the passenger back door sill and above the drivers side corner marker) The engine bay wasn't bad either, the issue was like the underside of the back portion of the car. The only thing I worry about is the makeshift boost controller was basically cranked closed. How strong are the bottom ends of these motors? I'm pretty damn sure it was hellishly over boosted. I'm going to email him and his wife back and see what the other details are. Rust or not, it was still MY pug lol. And granted the 505 community consists of like 6 people you guys are all nice and helpful and it's nice to post on here. Would be cooler if I could swap in an LS1 or something ridiculous into it, haha. Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 28, 2010 Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Bottom ends are strong, but they will not take any abuse running lean. If they got good AF ratios they're good, but that's usually not the case and they get leaned out and the piston ring lands crack. Do a compression test on it to see how those numbers come out. I totally get the MY car sentiment - but it's usually not the smartest way to go. BTW - Depending on the boost controller - if it is closed, it shouldn't bleed any air out and should then be stock boost. If it's wide open (bleeding boost signal), pray the overboost switch was working. I don't know of any that when closed stop the boost signal from getting to the wastegate... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1320Turbo Posted October 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2010 Maybe I can pop the motor out of the wrecked 88 and transplant it into my 86. Being the 88 is an EA motor and mines an E, if I use my existing wiring harnass will the setup bolt right up? Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 29, 2010 Report Share Posted October 29, 2010 The 89' EA motor would bolt up but it would be an N9TE if you just bolted it up. Motor's are identical, but you'd need to swap NTC sensors for it to work in your 86... That'd be a pricer set up than just fixing the head - if the bottom end is unknown, motor swap might be better spent. Do yourself a favour though and test drive the 88' at least. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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