V-M Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 I was promising (to my self and my wife) not to buy any more of these. But what can you do It has been driven 206tkm in west Sweden and originally has been "show" car in local dealer. Last owner owned this 4 months and did made some changes, changed turbo to TDO4-15G with interesting adapter in original exhaust manifold and added 3" exhaust pipe. Moved original IC to front (not so nice). And moved battery on back. Some paint failures, but over all not so bad. Trip to car was not so nice weather was bad. temperature was going from +1C to -6C and was snowing, road was slipery etc... not nice towing trailer+car with 1900kg and towing car was my saab and distance was ~600km in one direction so it did take 15h with 2 stops (15min) in both ways. V-M Pictures are on my home page in Peugeot section Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 11, 2005 Report Share Posted December 11, 2005 LOL! I guess this isn't the place to get heck for buying another car - so congrats! Car looks decent from the pictures and I'm curious how that engine would run with the exhaust manifold mods and the mitsu turbo... One thing that I noticed was the ground cable looks like it might run from the battery to the car body at the back. If this is the case - that's a big no-no. You should run both cables to the front for proper power supply and ground. (I ran it like that in my V6 504 and had no end of issues till I ran the cables up front. You propably know this already but I thought I'd mention it anyway...) I'd recommend at least 4 ga fine strand welding wire, but I like to use 1 ga wire. I also ground to rear chassis as well, but the main wire runs up to the engine compartment. I usually put a junction block up front somewhere so the car can be boosted from either the front or the back... If you get it running - let us know what you're impressions are! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 hahahah congrats V-M, looks like fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 Hello! One thing that I noticed was the ground cable looks like it might run from the battery to the car body at the back. If this is the case - that's a big no-no. You should run both cables to the front for proper power supply and ground. (I ran it like that in my V6 504 and had no end of issues till I ran the cables up front. You propably know this already but I thought I'd mention it anyway...) I have battery at same place and it is grounded to trunk. I have 50 mm2 cable for ground and 4*16mm2 to front and works well..... When i start engine it runs even faster with start-motor than earlier.... I'd recommend at least 4 ga fine strand welding wire, but I like to use 1 ga wire. I also ground to rear chassis as well, but the main wire runs up to the engine compartment. I usually put a junction block up front somewhere so the car can be boosted from either the front or the back... If you get it running - let us know what you're impressions are! Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V-M Posted December 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 Basically it should be enough to add stronger (thick) cable to groung engine to body and same thing in rear body to battery. I can't see what is difference in grounding point? Shorter cable is allways better in current point of view. V-M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 According to the electrical shop I had my car when I first relocated a battery (almost 20 years ago!) and presently confirmed by stereo installers), the best way to relocate a battery was to run both cables from the trunk - to the engine for ground and to the + on the starter. (master kill switch was also recommended inline). The reason they gave was that grounding to the chassis was considered "dirty" in that it wasn't as effective in completing the electrical circuit. (I had the same thinking as V-M - chassis grounded at both points should be good enough.) I now can see how a dedicated cable to the block from the negative post to the block is better than going through the chassis for giving a cleaner ground, and it kind of makes sense with all these "grounding kits" being sold now. People are seeing noticable improvements by using better grounds, and making sure that the ground circuit is done mostly with cable instead of relying on the chassis alone. (Allows the sensors to work better my providing a better signal because it has a better ground) If it works for you as is great - I just know what I've seen, and the improvements I've witnessed. (It sounds stupid - but I've found improvements by doing it so I've changed my mind on it...) Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
august Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 just so i'm understanding clearly. its looked down upon to ground to the trunk rather then running a negative cable to the engine bay because the all the noise you could pickup in the body between the trunk and engine compartment? I can see how it'd be important to have a clear ground to critical engine sensors. is there any *advantage* to grounding to the trunk? if so, what about grounding to the trunk, as well as running a wire to the engine bay? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted December 12, 2005 Report Share Posted December 12, 2005 For clarification - I'm advocating running wires from the battery back to the engine as a priority. Running additional grounds to the trunk definitely won't hurt - but the only advantage I could see is providing a cleaner path for the rear lights and stuff. Up front you DEFINTELY want to run grounding cables from the block to the body. Key is to just provide a dedicated cable to all large sources of electrical draw. Again - this is just "recommended" as it would likely run fine just the way it is, but if you want to be absolutely sure and really eliminate some portential problems, then it might be worth considering. I've never done any testing or anything - but I know that there's a significant upgrade to going to a 4-wire O2 sensor - and it has 2 grounds. 1 is for the powered heater, and the other is for the sensor itself. They don't share the ground wire so the signal is cleaner. Just my $0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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