Palme Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Hello everyone! I got some problems with my 505 Turbo -88, with the N9TEA-engine. It just won´t start when hot, but it starts and runs perfectly when cold. It runs perfectly until you turn it off, and then it won´t start. When hot, it runs on starting fluid. Therefore I have excluded that there would be any problems with the ignition. I have checked and measured the thermotime switch and the engine temperature sensor, at least that the resistance in the thermotime switch is correct when cold, and that the resistance in the engine temperature sensor is high when cold, and low when hot (I didn´t find any exact figures of what it should be). I have also tried to disconnect the cable to the cold start injector, and measured if there is any voltage when engine is warm (I saw it here on the forum. Thanks, Johnny). But that seems to be in order. (By the way… Those things I checked in the morning yesterday, and later in the evening I went out to start it again. Then it didn´t start even when cold. I disconnected the engine temperature sensor and the thermotime switch, but that didn´t help. Then I disconnected the 60 °C thermocontact, and it started. So now I´m a bit confused …) What could it be? What is the next thing to check? I hope you all understand my explanation, and please ask if anything is unclear. Regards, Alex Palmqvist Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted August 20, 2008 Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Tjenare! Engine temperature sensor resistance should be: 8200-11000 ohm @ -10 deg. 2280-2720 ohm @ +20 deg. 290-370 ohm @ +80 deg. More info on Lu-jetronic diagnostics here: http://www.peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palme Posted August 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 20, 2008 Tjenare! Engine temperature sensor resistance should be: 8200-11000 ohm @ -10 deg. 2280-2720 ohm @ +20 deg. 290-370 ohm @ +80 deg. More info on Lu-jetronic diagnostics here: http://www.peugeot505.info/files/manuals/tt-sd-nsd_15-5.pdf Tack! There it was! I've looked that document through twice and not spotted it ... I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks again, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest broke Posted August 21, 2008 Report Share Posted August 21, 2008 Check and see that both fuel pumps work ,,,,,,one in the gas tank and the other under the car. You might be experiencing vapour lock. I have the same problem except it happens only when the car is warm (sitting for an hour or so) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palme Posted August 23, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2008 Minor update: Now it won't start even when cold. I have measured the engine temperature sensor, with the results: 5,600 Ohm at ~ +20 deg. 575 Ohm at +80 deg. What do you think about that? It's quite a lot from what it should be, but how much could it affect? I talked to a car-mechanic yesterday, and he said that the engine temperature sensor affects on how the engine runs, but not that it would affect on when/if it starts? I have checked the second fuel pump, and everything seems to be in order. Well, it's not perfect, but it didn't start if I had current directly from the battery to the pump, and therefore I've excluded that it would have anything to do with the current to the pump. But I haven't tested the fuel pressure, which I'd say is the next thing to check. Any other suggestions? Regards, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
N9TE Posted August 24, 2008 Report Share Posted August 24, 2008 Fuel Pressure Regulator. If it's old, replace it. They fail gradually, usually beginning as a first morning hard start. Hot soak can also push fuel past a weak regulator as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palme Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 ... And now it runs. But I didn't do anything! ... Except than cleaning the yellow Cartier injection system-relay contacts, but I can't think of it as the faulty link. Hopefully it was one of those problems that fixed itself, but you can never be sure. But since it's a bit hard to fix something that isn't broke, I can't do anything than just consider it fixed. I still have to turn the starter motor a little bit longer than when cold, but it sure starts. By the way, I measured the fuel pressure, and it was just fine. 2.2-2.3 bar. But since the engine temperature sensor resistance was quite a lot from what it should be, I thought I'd get a new one. But my local Peugeot spare parts-dealer is of the type that can't be trusted, unfortunately, and I don't really know what the correct part number is for the 1988 N9TEA NTC-sensor. Can anyone tell? I know that there are blue ones and black ones, and the blue one should be up to -87, and the black one -88 and on. Blue: 0 280 130 026, Peugeot part number: 0242.46 Black: ? ... And mine is a black 0 280 130 032, which, according to my research, should be the right one. But I haven't got it confirmed yet, and the spare parts-dealer says it should be the 0 280 130 026 ... Anyone who knows? Regards, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Palme Posted September 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted September 15, 2008 By the way, OT of the week: In my vehicle registration certificate it says that my car is a "Peugeot 505 turbo Injection B5". Can anyone tell what the "B5" means? Do you have it? Or is it just some weird thing that we only have in Sweden? Regards, Alex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Posted September 16, 2008 Report Share Posted September 16, 2008 I don't know the parts number for the black ones, and I can't check it until the weekend since I'm not where my car is. What I can tell you is that the difference between the black and blue ones are that the black one is basicly two blue ones, but in one unit. On the blue, one cable goes to ground and one to the fuel ECU. But on the black, one cable goes to the fuel ECU and the other one goes to the ignition ECU and the sensor is grounded through the threads. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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