Palme

Välkommen! Great with one more member from Sweden. The speech synthesizer unit is located in a carpet "bag" under the passenger seat. Regarding the trouble shooting I have no advise at this moment, but hopefully you will sort at least something out now that you know where it's located. I have a 1988 N9TEA too. I had a look at both the kick panel speakers and the main unit when I did some job on the interior a couple of years ago, but I can't remember anything about wiring and such. And taking pictures for future use was of course beyond my intelligence ... But anyway, feel free to ask if you come up with any further questions about wiring etc., and I'll try to answer as far as possible. Actually, there was around 100 of them sold in Sweden 1988, but only about 46 of them are still in the register (i.e. not scrapped). Regards, Alex

Allright, sounds good. Let's hope It will get better. By the way, now I noticed that year and engine was of course typed in the topic. Careless by me. Regards, Alex

The readings for the NTC sensor should be: 8,200-11,000 Ohms at -10°C 2,280-2,720 Ohms at 20°C 290-370 Ohms at 80°C All data from: Technical training - System diagnosis ...So your readings are nothing but crap, I dare to say. They are ridiculously, almost impossibly low? It's a -91 N9TEA you have, right? And the NTC sensor is black? The black NTC sensor is grounded through the threads, and not through one of the connections on the sensor. Therefore the resistance should be measured between one of the connections and ground to get it right. Regards, Alex

Great to hear, and that list is practically what I've been looking for for ages! Regards, Alex

Yes, I agree with you. It would be far more likely they used a complete sensor unit, but I just don't know how to investigate further. As mentioned, the "Ford-guys" didn't recognize it as a Ford part at all. I've checked other Peugeot-models (405, 605) and Porsches too, but they all use Bosch systems. My only theory is that everything that somewhat easy could be used of consisting components (control units, all kinds of wires, etc.) was, and then they just had had to make an "own" sensor head to make it fit to the wheel spindle. I mean, somewhere in the chain of parts you must modify a link to make Ford (/Ate) ABS-parts and Peugeot car-parts come together. Perhaps the sensor head was the easiest and most profitable to "modify"? Regards, Alex

Minor supplement ... Recently I replaced one of my front ABS-sensors. And on the connector I noticed a very small Ford-symbol. Remembering this thread I thought I'd do some research on these sensors, and see if they were sitting on the mentioned Ford Scorpios/Sierras as well. So I contacted a Ford spare parts-dealer who I knew had been into these things for a long time and surely knew old Ford parts. Unfortunately, he didn't recognize it as a Ford part. He thought that it was only the connector that Peugeot (/Ate) had gotten from Ford, and then used it with an other sensor head. To sum up: Front ABS-sensors from Ford are at least not interchangeable. Regards, Alex

I'd say that bead blasting is the solution. I've seen some bead blasted heads, and they practically looked like new. Regards, Alex

I got one of those adaptors domestically from my spare parts-contact. But thanks anyway, V-M! I got it mounted today, and now it all works just fine. Regards, Alex

Sorry, maybe I was a bit unclear. When I said "...and goes straight into the block", I should have said cylinder block, of course. And when I spoke about the "block" I meant what you call adaptor. Anyway, it's a -88 N9TEA (forgot to mention it, sorry), so I need one of those adaptors, then. If you V-M could think of selling the adaptor and sensor to across the sea, it would be great. But first I'll check with my usual spare-parts contacts, since it would be easiest getting one domestically. If I don't get one, I'll contact you. All right? Regards, Alex Palmqvist

Hmm... I got a bit confused when you mentioned a "block". I had seen the oil pressure sending unit, but nothing to be mentioned as a block. So I googled for some pictures, and found this: ...on this page. And there it is, the "block"! My pressure sending unit is all alone, and goes straight into the block. Then I'll just have to get one of those blocks, and a temperature sending unit. Regards, Alex

Hello everyone! My oil temperature gauge doesn't work (but the oil level indicator works, which as you know is in the same unit). So I've searched practically every square inch of the engine for the sending unit, but I just can't find it. My question is: Where is it? Or does it perhaps use the same sending unit as for the level indicator? But then the wiring confuses me ... Anyone who knows? Regards, Alex Palmqvist

Here it is... http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?ac...post&id=878 Found it in this thread... http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?sh...7&hl=poster I remembered seeing it some year ago, and a couple of months ago I decided to find it again. So, I searched my ass off, and finally found it ... But, it would be really nice if anyone knew if there's one with a higher resolution available somewhere, so that you could get a nice print out of it. Great ad. They sure knew how to make them in the 80's. Regards, Alex

Tack! That wasn't too bad. Perhaps it will be a set of adaptors when the time for new rims is here ... Thanks again! Regards, Alex

Thanks, but one more real close-up picture in "between" the spokes would be just perfect! Regards, Alex

Nice! As mentioned before, the offset looks perfect! I have too had some thoughts on a set of adaptors like those, but depending on wheels I'm a bit concerned that it could look a bit strange if you see too much of the adaptors. Therefore I would really appreciate if you could take a close-up picture of the hub/adaptor with the wheel mounted? Do you follow? Regards, Alex

By the way, OT of the week: In my vehicle registration certificate it says that my car is a "Peugeot 505 turbo Injection B5". Can anyone tell what the "B5" means? Do you have it? Or is it just some weird thing that we only have in Sweden? Regards, Alex

... And now it runs. But I didn't do anything! ... Except than cleaning the yellow Cartier injection system-relay contacts, but I can't think of it as the faulty link. Hopefully it was one of those problems that fixed itself, but you can never be sure. But since it's a bit hard to fix something that isn't broke, I can't do anything than just consider it fixed. I still have to turn the starter motor a little bit longer than when cold, but it sure starts. By the way, I measured the fuel pressure, and it was just fine. 2.2-2.3 bar. But since the engine temperature sensor resistance was quite a lot from what it should be, I thought I'd get a new one. But my local Peugeot spare parts-dealer is of the type that can't be trusted, unfortunately, and I don't really know what the correct part number is for the 1988 N9TEA NTC-sensor. Can anyone tell? I know that there are blue ones and black ones, and the blue one should be up to -87, and the black one -88 and on. Blue: 0 280 130 026, Peugeot part number: 0242.46 Black: ? ... And mine is a black 0 280 130 032, which, according to my research, should be the right one. But I haven't got it confirmed yet, and the spare parts-dealer says it should be the 0 280 130 026 ... Anyone who knows? Regards, Alex

Minor update: Now it won't start even when cold. I have measured the engine temperature sensor, with the results: 5,600 Ohm at ~ +20 deg. 575 Ohm at +80 deg. What do you think about that? It's quite a lot from what it should be, but how much could it affect? I talked to a car-mechanic yesterday, and he said that the engine temperature sensor affects on how the engine runs, but not that it would affect on when/if it starts? I have checked the second fuel pump, and everything seems to be in order. Well, it's not perfect, but it didn't start if I had current directly from the battery to the pump, and therefore I've excluded that it would have anything to do with the current to the pump. But I haven't tested the fuel pressure, which I'd say is the next thing to check. Any other suggestions? Regards, Alex

Tack! There it was! I've looked that document through twice and not spotted it ... I'll check that tomorrow. Thanks again, Alex

Hello everyone! I got some problems with my 505 Turbo -88, with the N9TEA-engine. It just won´t start when hot, but it starts and runs perfectly when cold. It runs perfectly until you turn it off, and then it won´t start. When hot, it runs on starting fluid. Therefore I have excluded that there would be any problems with the ignition. I have checked and measured the thermotime switch and the engine temperature sensor, at least that the resistance in the thermotime switch is correct when cold, and that the resistance in the engine temperature sensor is high when cold, and low when hot (I didn´t find any exact figures of what it should be). I have also tried to disconnect the cable to the cold start injector, and measured if there is any voltage when engine is warm (I saw it here on the forum. Thanks, Johnny). But that seems to be in order. (By the way… Those things I checked in the morning yesterday, and later in the evening I went out to start it again. Then it didn´t start even when cold. I disconnected the engine temperature sensor and the thermotime switch, but that didn´t help. Then I disconnected the 60 °C thermocontact, and it started. So now I´m a bit confused …) What could it be? What is the next thing to check? I hope you all understand my explanation, and please ask if anything is unclear. Regards, Alex Palmqvist