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Mike T

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Everything posted by Mike T

  1. There may be an oil/coolant intercooler on the MI16 (like there is on my smart cdi which also oil sprays the piston undersides) and if so, check that it's in good order.
  2. Oil jets cool the pistons in the MI16 so high oil temperature in comparison to coolant is perfectly normal. Just make sure you use really good oils.
  3. It's basically ready to go in the car. I will not put the intake manifold on now because the chains from the factory hoist bar chafe it so I'll put them on once it's in the car. The distributor/oil pump drive has to be properly oriented before assembly (and retained by the distributor collar or it will fall out when the engine's upside down).
  4. It's Rilsan plastic with wire reinforcement.
  5. Oh it's plasti-dip? Waste of time. Use actual paint and do what I recommended and it should come up well.
  6. Just use some wet/dry super fine paper on it and it should come up perfectly smooth.
  7. Got some assembly done today: timing gears, injection pump, housing and timing cover. Next up is valve cover, oil pump/distributor drive and then sump..... Lining up the timing marks: Tensioner: Injection pump with NOS SEDIS drivebelt, correctly tensioned: All buttoned up: Another view so you can see the rebuilt Kugelfischer injection pump hanging off the housing.
  8. Got a few minutes today to mount the flywheel and then attach the frame for the engine stand. And now it's on the stand so the reassembly can resume in earnest.
  9. Thanks! Today I got four new belts from Dean Hunter in England: one of the 1280.01 unadjustable water pump belts and three of the super short 5750.18 alternator belts that are common to 1965-1967 404 KF2 engines.
  10. We will not be buying another new Peugeot and I doubt they'll ever be back here. May have to stick with the Germans.....
  11. Block is painted and some of the bits and pieces are attached. Threw the header pipe on just for fun!
  12. Block: satin black (originally unpainted). Valve cover, timing gear cover in steel and sump are already powder coated gloss black.
  13. So far the only part of the block that was painted, after a good wire brushing, is the orangest part you can see in that photo. I painted it before mounting the external oil line that feeds pressurized oil to the head, which would have made painting it pretty difficult after. The tube itself needed painting and the insides were cleaned out first. Ceramic paint good to 600°C on the cast iron manifold, which was perfectly rust free and clean beforehand. Hope it lasts a while! The other side. The shop rectified the faces of the 4 ports on the manifold so it lost its mild pitting from the past 55 years and should fit the new head beautifully! I also cleaned the clutch fan switch sensor that screws into the radiator and mounted it, cleaned out the oil supply tube between the block and head, mounted it with new copper washers after painting the block behind the tube first, then painted the tube once mounted.
  14. Next step now that it's home is to paint the block after getting the flash rust off it. Also got from Peugeot Classic a Peugeot branded warning triangle and a plug wrench to carry in the car.
  15. They slightly refinished a few, likely extreme polishing - they were not bad in that respect - and all were re-bushed in house. Plan is to get her running soonish and do some road trials whenever I can. I expect the brake booster (NOS but it was on the car for 28 years) needs a rebuild but I'll probably try it as is for this stage of work. Maybe I'll get lucky. If not, it'll go to White Post in the eastern USA for a rebuild later this year. It's nice to be winding down the costs of all this work, at this point.....
  16. Long block comes home Thursday PM. Of course one of the sets of rod bearings I dropped off there 5 days ago did the trick.........
  17. Dropped the rod bearings off at Anderson Precision Engines this afternoon. She's coming together nicely.
  18. So meanwhile, I decided that the stainless steel license plate mount on the back of my Mercedes is very nice, heavy gauge and ideal for the 404C. It will prevent the front plate from bending if it gets a "light kiss" in a parking lot, for example. So I bought on from a wrecker, had to drill two holes to match the 404C bumper holes and mounted it. This is much nicer than the original rusted one that I threw out some years back..which I later regretted.... but now I don't!
  19. The engine builder is doing this. They reground the crankshaft journals to the 0.3 specs in the Peugeot KF2 Injection factory manual. The 0.3 Glaciers should work fine but if there was some mix-up, the 0.5 is ready for use....
  20. Rod bearings arrived and I'll run them down to the shop on Friday the 26th.
  21. I've ordered from Britain two sets of AE-Glacier rod bearings, one in 0.3 mm and one in 0.5 mm oversize. Should arrive soon I hope. I got the larger size in case I need them in the future.
  22. The engine shop emailed and the bearing shells for the connecting rods were in the wrong box evidently, as the box says they're 0.3 mm oversized but they appear to be standard - i.e. too thin for the resurfaced crankshaft. So I will source some more from Europe and that will delay the engine's return to the car a little...depending upon how long the postage takes. At least the engine assembly is nearing completion on the shop!
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