V-M

This one have it -> Red -88 but It's only 88 one in Finland, imported from Sweden in -89. Leather interior, "ABS", speed sensing steering. etc... It will be nice also in future. I talked with current owner today and he is building it carefully. Owner is 68 year old man who has 404 diesel familiare for use car and wanted real car for old days hobby V-M

Basically, those volvo springs are stronger and cheap (new ones -> 20 euros/pair) There was no 505 front springs available, but I did buy 505 rear springs in same price. I'm not looking best solution in my projects, just following my motto -> Most bang for the buck! And other thing is at those volvo springs fits nicely in original palace and with those modified shocks it should function correctly (not tested yet). V-M

Not from danielson. Those are Morette headlights. And those are available still. -> http://www.motorsportworld.co.uk/ V-M

Danger of mismatch? Well, basic reason is money. Everything is possible if have money,but who drives old pug if you have money to buy ferrari (of similar)? V-M

Aftermarket 240 springs and original MB springs, Those mercedes ones are real killers (you will see, I'll take some pictures all of those). Those are really for 505 and 604 (There is label in original box, and also original sales papers for garanti also followed from year -92) and fits nicely. I know that "all" aftermarket ones sucks, at least those normal priced ones. V-M

Volvo springs needs to be cut and same for MB springs. Too thich oil will harm any strut, but using special strut oils there is no probs (maybe only here in -C degrees can be brobs with thick oil). V-M

Here is my recepie: - In front Volvo 240 series springs, and modified original shocks. Shock valve manipulation and oil change to new original oil (available still and not expencive) or use different grade like dirt bike shock oil. - In back heavy duty 505 springs or MB 190 rear springs. Koni adjustable shock's with helper spring (these are rare, I know) I have two sets of these and these were available in 10years ago. I think front swaybar is ok but rear is totally too soft and needs some upgrade, one turbo owner here is trying to find manufacturer for these turbo "chassis connections" urethane rubber (eurothane?). As you know those two connection rubbers at each side? Turbo has different rear ones! It's 1,5cm longer than other models! V-M

I did have 6 months intensive french teaching (in Belgium) but no luck... Too f... difficult. Flemish learning in same time was easy job I hope Toni will learn and be great translator and spokesman V-M

Some ideas: - AFM has same numbers (color has no effect) I have one blue cover also - Pipe on back -> Could be related to air intake to fan (cover removed) - inj. 200 are in all european spec cars from 84 -> 87 models V-M

I hope this will turn some good At least bit better than my try in this forum Francuas. Okay okay maybe I was bit pissed off (but I have been there , working with them, and lived in french area in Brussels 1.5years) V-M

My opinion about this pipe length optimising in turbo car is totally waste of time and money... yeah it looks nice etc... In long pipe gases will cool and loose energy, increase lag, more heat in engine bay etc... Short and compact is best. Maybe if I try to take everything out (~200hp/cyl) then it could make a difference. IMHO V-M

Naa... probably not for this car (those injectors) just teasing (but I did buy them) But I'll stop now and consentrate on building when ever I have time. V-M

So... I'd have to move dyno time again. Con rod bearings missing new time 19. january 2006. Main axel polised in grinder shop. And a lot other things to do during "this" time of year. Just bought new set of injectors (750cc/3bar) and discussing to buy of TDO4-16T(G7) but eaven it's cheap I'll think to keep my old fassioned TO3 trim60 (it feel when it will "get going") V-M

Yes, I'm fully awear on these head gasket posibilities. But my point of view was "normal" engine builder/repairer. Those o-rings are also as factory build as different grooves. And can be used when you cut "chamber ring" off from normal gasket. And machine 1.2mm deep and 1mm wide place around cylinder. That is "normal" way what they do here in racing cars. Rings Using copper gasket is one solution but there is also challege cause it will leak untill you have tightend gasket ~10 times (yes I have done that) But these solutions are mainly for those who like to get more hp. Okay, well this copper gasket can be one after they have stopped to deliver those from factory. Those Toyota shells are interesting? Only problem is if it's old (before 90's), toyota will not produce many parts any more (life cycle in Japan is 5years in car point of view). I did visit Toyotas museum in Tokyo couple of years back. And asked that issue, and reasoning was at Japan goverment is punishing those who use older cars (by heavy payments and inspection regulations). V-M

Luckily tensioner is used also in diesel engines (can be used) and chain in used also in other brands. Chain can be longer cause it's easy to cut. Only big issue is those bearings! There is some solutions to cover but all of them are expensive ones. All other gaskets can be made/modified/replace easily except head gasket. So in end: In engine: - Head gasket - Bearing shells Body: - metal parts - moulded rubber parts Electrical: - All boxes (only used ones available) - Display modules (for old body <- 85) etc... V-M

Look's nice. Make pictures resolution smaller 800x600 is ok then file size is ~60k V-M

We have dam long nights and short days here in north pole with icebears Nothing else to do... V-M

505 turbo for sell V-M

It will take more that 300Nm but that's official limit That BMW Getrag (26X) goves are close to Pug growe but not exact (I have tested) But thats no brob just use BMW cluch plate V-M

Basically it should be enough to add stronger (thick) cable to groung engine to body and same thing in rear body to battery. I can't see what is difference in grounding point? Shorter cable is allways better in current point of view. V-M

I was promising (to my self and my wife) not to buy any more of these. But what can you do It has been driven 206tkm in west Sweden and originally has been "show" car in local dealer. Last owner owned this 4 months and did made some changes, changed turbo to TDO4-15G with interesting adapter in original exhaust manifold and added 3" exhaust pipe. Moved original IC to front (not so nice). And moved battery on back. Some paint failures, but over all not so bad. Trip to car was not so nice weather was bad. temperature was going from +1C to -6C and was snowing, road was slipery etc... not nice towing trailer+car with 1900kg and towing car was my saab and distance was ~600km in one direction so it did take 15h with 2 stops (15min) in both ways. V-M Pictures are on my home page in Peugeot section

Idea of it's same as my flange -> plogging wastegate air flow to mess with turbine air flow. After that it doesn't make any difference (see -> 3" pipe) there is enough space for those gases. Flange Flange 2 V-M

I have two of those tanks free. If some one pays and handels all transportation issues those are free of charge on my side. (But without tank pump assembly, those are rost away from those). V-M

Easy job!? Just use some aluminium tubes and TIG "glue" V-M

Nice arrow heads! those are for dump valve controls (if I remember right) and on wall those are pressure relays. Dump valve don'r work with air flow meters with out those. But I have by-pass with out those and working ok. V-M