V-M

Actually there is more than 5 similar cars for sale in same location, many of them are missing some parts. And price is way too high. Those have been for sale since last summer (at least). V-M

Well if it will be your first one then I would think twice. Parts (for engine) are expencive and hard to find. Surely there is hobbyists in nordic countries so some help is available but still... Around 200-220hp and 330-350Nm can be reached in "cheap" way but beond that it will be expencive and need more skills and knowledge. And of cause any additional power degreases engine life. Most of information to increase power is available in this site. Just keep reading. V-M

Well, first at all don't use any silicone based things with cork. With cork only clean properly both sides from head and cover. Don't touch greasy hands that cork. Put cork on water and touch it by hand all over in water. Then just put in on place and use correct moment. Same thing with oil pan seal. I know this sounds bit odd but I have learned this 25 years ago and it has worked nicely. I learned this from very old Peugeot mechanic (died 20 years ago) and he learned when he was studying it in peugeot factory in 50's Funny thing is at some US based car factory manuals gives guidance at that sould be oiled (LoL) and that will only do at it will leak surely V-M

I doupt that, looks like talbot samba wheels 4 X 100mm V-M

I know it was but could have some similarities? between 8-10 deg (I did have 7 due knocking and it was 36-38deg in 4400rpm). V-M

http://www.mkiiitech.com/forums/viewtopic....ad8422a4d2fc5f5 Any help on that? V-M

I think I have seen this project 1 in blocket a while a go? V-M

Nope, both are correct. If engine works... then no probs. V-M

Ok I'll help but where u live? Do you need system with lamda and catalysator? To be onest there is no benefit to use this 505 system in your case. As I said ingnition curve (more important issue) and knocking box are more assential than this dummy ECU. I recomend to use megasquirt or similar system (same work and it's adjustable). IMHO I'll search this wiring quide for u. V-M P.S Don't worry I'm not brand rasist (any car brand is okay for me)

True (about ECU) But basically there is only correction data for lamda and nothing more. In 505 turbo there is separate box for ignition curve and knocking adjustments. For fuel amount there is only analog inputs and outputs (and in cat+lamda cars correction factor) I'm not so used in those cat+lamda 505 turbos cause I have owned only one of those versions so that is my knowledge of issue. Other ones here could have more information cause they have more of those. Youre not anoying me at all. Sorry if I did give such impression... V-M

I hope those holds Cause that chem.metal is not so good with places which "shakes" in different amplitude. I would have drilled thigh holes for injectors (O-rings keeps it thight) and used "clamp" around manifold. IMHO V-M

L-jet ECU is "dump" box so it has nothing to do with ps output. Can u take picture of box and add picture in this topic, and try to take picture so at label is seen. I'll see if I found this scema some where... V-M

Usual reason is broken "wire" which operates sunroof. It let u open but not close roof. Motor is on right side behind of that cover. V-M

It's 505 Turbo Inj ecu. http://www.peugeot205klub.hu/cikkek/cikkek...=cikk&id=14 Size of piston is 91,7mm There is schema some where in forum topic. V-M

Was that clamp realy produced by Peugeot? I only know this one hobbyist greation. V-M

There is some info on similar boxes http://www.alfagtv6.com/bb/viewtopic.php?p...99b118143ee96aa Br V-M

Seems ok, plug and play .-). Just make sure at low impedance is ok for box (usually not without set of 8Ohm resistors). V-M

200 are low ohm injectors. I would use that greddy drive those extra set off injectors? But can it handle low ohm inj? And more than 1? V-M

WOW... thats expensive additive (here those cost between 20-30e) Only welding and needed valve work cost's around 250-300e + sending costs. And thats only longtherm solution. Those additives are bit dangerous cause thos are reacting with oxygen and is filling also pipes in radiator (not nice in hot countries) and inside heating element (not nice in cold countries). Specially in those engines where is block heating element that is realy destroying that element. I can only recomend those "REPAIR" additives usage when travel/trip is disturbed and there is no other possibility fix broblem. IMHO NOTE. I'm not saying at those don't do that job, but there is some unwanted side effects. V-M

Ok, thats plug and play thing then. Only thing to check at if both cars are having catalysator or not. If other one has and other have not then this is different thing (bit complicate) but actually easy to solve. just injectors have to change from -88 model. With catalysator there is high impedance injectors and without there is low impedance injectors. Also this inlet swithc can be different so it must be changed according chassis. After that there should be no broblems. V-M

Depending if -87 model is turbo or not it will be different. If yes, thats easy. If not then I would be saying at don't try to use originel engine management in that transformation. V-M

Wastegate spring is giving up in that 1bar? Try to add external spring and test with it. V-M

My garbage cans can be seen in signature :-D V-M

Bit welding work (attachment bolt pattern is different) and size machining (mínor work). That could cost ~100e but still cheaper than those. V-M

Remember! If You like to save few buck's. Easy shop those Nissan or Toyota disk's in Europe at least and cheap ~35e/pcs http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?sh...45&hl=brake V-M