V-M

Same FIC as I have... no difference on spooling. V-M

Engines are the same. V-M

That would be LE-jet regulator which is adjustable? V-M

I don't find my message from Peugeot-L anymore I have digging this information years... gone trought massive amount of information sources. These are options without any modifications to bearing holders For Main bearing only alternative is Perkins Diesel engine 1.7L from 1958 -> That bearing is too wide (31,88mm) and needs to be under size one. (STD is 57.097-57.112mm) But size other ways is correct. Originel bearing with is 24,67mm and holder is 27.8mm. For ConRod only easy one is using Peugeot 205 (and talbot/simca) engine G1 G2 1309cc engine mainbearings. Only problem is at there is 5 pairs in packet and only one pair is wide enough so u need to buy 4 sets or use those narrow ones (18,5mm). Anyway those needs some modifications also but wery minor ones (those wider ones are bit too wide to fit and lock pin is in wrong place). I have done that ConRod thing for my monster engine with 4 sets of 205 bearings (did cost totally ~140e) Reason was at main axcel was so good condition at I'didnt want to machine it so I did use std size. Luckily I have many of those Original main bearing sets and also some original conrod sets (oversize). And just for note. You can't use any other bearings (with close match) without fitting their outside size to mach bearing seat. V-M

Those are not mathing bearings at all. See my topic for clearance V-M

Paint? Who the hell have been destroyed nice car? V-M

Wellcome, dam nice looking setup u have! V-M

Couple of comments. In comp.ratio 11:1 and turbos will result very high power and eaven shorter life for engine (maybe only one try). With good engine management and and knocking detection 9:1 will do nicely. Then comment on that last post 240hp on wheels is not 300hp on flywheel. If 60hp is lost in between engine and wheels those things (gearbox and rear gear) will melt. Power loss in manual gear in between 8-12% and in automat 12-16% (I did use in calculation 16%). V-M

Hi, Those eye lids was self made. Front spoiler was from BMW or some other brand? Side things was self made. Owner can tell some details. U can find him by sending privat message to TAMA he is member here also. So those are not any buy and install kits (he has done a lot of work to made them fit like that). V-M

Surely specs for that cam are available in grinder, I have one but I have to check if person who ordered it will still buy it (I did ordered it 2 years ago and it have been in my carage shelf since). I don't remember was it 1.3 or 1.4... Well it's time to talk then. Cause thats the point in that difference. 304 deg (well I didn't find how that was measured) there is big difference if thats is 0 lift or 0.05" lift degrees. Sure you can make that work but driveability is surely poor but hi rev power can be nice... as can be seen. Remember these are just my opinions and experience on engine building. V-M

What u mean? There is no raw cams available on N9T engine. Danielson have them but I have not get answer if they would like to sell them. So every cam is re grinded. And 8.2mm is max lift from cam what can be gained. Surely if do some welding there is possible to have more lift. But eaven with that 8.2 is on valve 10.7mm which is giving good flow. About that lobe, there is big differences in different engines how they are defined and built using that lobe degrees. So it's not direct at N/A engines are using big lobe (106-116) and turbos have small (100- 108). V-M

That comparison does not open to me? For me it's like comparing planes and cows As I sayed no engine openings done = std cam is in use. Of cause not, they re-grinded it to dani spec cam. V-M

Yes now we are talking same language True N/A wild cams are totally non functional in turbo engine. I know several BMW 325 N/A which have put directly turbo without opening engine and those are hell a beasts and those are not junk jard cars (model year 2000 ->). I don't get that back pressure? Is it measured from exhaust? V-M

In that I'm not agreeing Bean... there is no big difference on N9T engine cams and N/A Chrysler cams those u can see on those listings. As I sayed it depends on engine how big difference there is. V-M

lobe is between 102-114 usually. V-M

There is several aspects on that issue. If you take N/A car and put turbo cam on that you get ~20-25% less power. If you take turbo car and put N/A cam you get ~10-15% more power. Calculating these could be nice hobby but reality is different. Like I did try 318deg (0 lift) and 8.2mm lift cam on my grey beast and that was laugh... it bearly moved and hardly runned. In N/A engine that should give ~50hp more with related mods. So it totally depends on cam and engine. N/A cam on turbo engine is like having 290 deg cam on N/A car. IMHO V-M

Agree with Bean. Dani cam have more lift and degrees -> better breating in high revs (means in N9T case over 4000). :-P V-M

Did take 2sec to type it on search engine... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PRV_engine V-M

That was bit different shape... cause when you put bolts there those comes too far and are hitting distributor gear (if I remenber right). V-M

Theoretically both. At least it should not do anything negative effect. V-M

Ideally could be "cone" modell. Air speed in magimum just before it hits wheel. V-M

Thats originel turbo inhousing? If you like to get maximum out from that then modify those sharp edges from inside. V-M

I agree, that can be fixed. IC is same as I have installed on my project car. But why those injectors? Same output as originel? Are those high or low impedance? V-M

True, mine is grey. But there was also at least white option in series 1 and that has no dark grey lower part (Toni has white one). So at least 3 colors was in series 1 turbos. Nice looking turbo you have found V-M

http://www.mat.fi/n_index.php?nav=gallery_...on.flv&g=13 :-)