keebs

Here's the 94.5mm gasket I got today, should answer your question. Now I'm just waiting for a nice day to put it on.

I just got a cometic in and it wont work since the head is not a 92mm bore. It slipped my mind that the head overlaps the bore on each side of the combustion chamber by just a little bit. Minimum bore size for a cometic should be 94mm, I ordered a 94.5mm just to be sure. Are you still having trouble contacting them? They pick up every time I've called.

Sorry for the long wait, it's been a busy week. The guy that called from ARP is named Alex for those interested.

They weren't too helpful the first time I called either. I'll take another listen to the message to see if there's a name attatched to the voice. Cool, did you send a pattern or is it just a generic estimate?

Didn't talk about price breaks, I was at work only got the voice-mail. I take it nobody called and showed interest? 5 sets would probably get us closer to 300usd.

Didn't ask for them.

Got a call from ARP today, 8740 studs 57usd per stud without nuts.

Very nice.

Use a pick to pull off the wire lock piece, it's very time consuming. It takes less time to disconnect the fuel lines and remove the rail with the injector harness still attatched.

Talked to two different guys didn't catch their names. Don't have a specific deal, but if they get enough calls they will have to do a production run. Tell all, anyone popular in the matra forums? Even people without the n9t should call and act interested, one production run would cover us for 20 years.

Had a few talks with ARP this week and they're currently working on a price for one set of head studs. If anyone wants head studs call 805-525-1497 and show some interest or it wont happen. The spec is M12x1.25-30mm long block thread. M12x1.00-25mm long nut thread. 205mm overall length. 10 studs per block.

No theory, just taking advantage of not having a mech dizzy.

Well you were damn close to atart with. You use 13 degrees while cranking? That's mighty stiff, keep it near 0 so she'll never have a chance to kick back.

Cool, I usually get to that point and back a few degrees out. What's the old vs new idle timing?

Not exactly a direct fit, it has a 3 inch inlet and you would need a way to attatch the outlet piping. I'll take 400 shipped.

My t3s60 is up for grabs if you want it. Comes with a .48 housing, wastegate actuator, and drain flange.

Audi part# 06A145710N, BMWs and 911s use the same style valve. If you still cant source one I suggest buying aftermarket made in country. My bosch leaked too. I think the dsm valves are 2 bolt flange, but not too sure. The oem bolts should be fine, but if I can get studs I will. Most of our head gaskets seem to be marginal anyway so any insurance is good.

Haven't looked for any oem bolts but you can probably get them. What kind of valve do you want? Turbosmart makes a nice diverter.

I still think the best way is to have them made. I'll eat the cost if it makes it easier for the next guy.

I'll price it out for M12x1.25 block M12x1.00 nut at 195mm length. All the options are expensive. Have you thought about the end price for a machinist to time-sert the block? There is no winning scenario here, just dont look at the price.

Either studs or just a stronger bolt since it's already a fine thread. Just read the debacle with the studs, not sure what to think about that. Did you ask them to do 1.25 on both ends? Let me see if I can take care of it Monday.

I tried to make my own too but had the same problem. 2jz rods need to be thinned an insignificant amount, and the crank would need to be undersized. When I get moving I'll see if arias will put it in their catalog as a piston and rod set. Need to get some other stuff made too, but by the time we're done the n9t might be a regular in some catalogs.

That would be great if you wanted to get this lined up. If they're less than 200usd everyone on the forum with an n9t should buy at least one. When I do the engine it will be 92.5mm bore, zero deck and .040 quench for the first attempt. The saab and volvo combo isn't very readily available here. The 2jz rods are just too close to ignore and have the right length. An entire gasket kit that hasn't been on a shelf for 30 years would be ideal. One request would be rubber valve cover and oil pan gaskets if possible.

I'm in. If we go this route a block print should be sent in along with a stock gasket.

I would trade squish if it meant the air was closer to sonic entry speed in cruise and could flow more in boost. This setup would be more of a 50/50 where there's more swirl on entry and under compression. This route could lead to flat top pistons depending on how much is removed. Yes you would also unshroud the plugs as usual, I was just playing with a 1" wood chisel and a hammer. I'll try to get a second opinion from an old man when the head is off. You've got to remember the dani head still had to work on the stock ecu so maybe it isn't optimum. Btw I measured a glaser hg bore and it was a lil bigger than 95mm, hopefully the cometic is more true to bore size. We need to lean on the aftermarket a little more heavily for parts. Let's get a group together, I'm willing to pay 500 for 1 good mls head gasket. Now I need 9 more of you to help secure the future of quality parts.