N9TEA Vacuum Line Help Needed

[billbranch]

Hi, Gang,

There is a line which runs out from the front underside of the throttle body and which exits through and out the back of the intake manifold toward the brake mc.

Can anyone tell me where this line should plug in?

Thank you.

Bill

[V-M]

Hi, Gang,

There is a line which runs out from the front underside of the throttle body and which exits through and out the back of the intake manifold toward the brake mc.

Can anyone tell me where this line should plug in?

Thank you.

Bill

Do you have green (3 tubes) "thing" in thermostat housing? -> there?

It's from pressure meter?

V-M

[billbranch]

I'll check that line. This is the wagon I bought on eBay. It's in very nice shape, but the engine runs like crap.

I am going to check the throttle position microswitch and the adjustment of the throttle position potentiometer, as well as the initial ignition timing.

I'm hoping it's little more than that, but disconnected vacuum lines can not be helping.

[Guest the505inme]

DId you drive it home? How does it run like crap?

I'll check that line. This is the wagon I bought on eBay. It's in very nice shape, but the engine runs like crap.

I am going to check the throttle position microswitch and the adjustment of the throttle position potentiometer, as well as the initial ignition timing.

I'm hoping it's little more than that, but disconnected vacuum lines can not be helping.

[billbranch]

DId you drive it home? How does it run like crap?

Yes, I drove it home, about two miles.

It rev's freely when sitting in neutral or park.

Very, very little boost and sluggish when accelerating.

Ignition wise, it starts right up. It is not misfiring.

The detonation light comes on when starting, but is absent after that regardless of how lousy the car is performing. It seems that the car is running in that safety mode with no boost or power, but it isn't.

There are a lot of tests and adjustments I can make before I get alarmed, and I'll also check to be sure the WA is operating freely and smoothly.

Bill

[Guest broke]

Hi, Gang,

There is a line which runs out from the front underside of the throttle body and which exits through and out the back of the intake manifold toward the brake mc.

Can anyone tell me where this line should plug in?

Thank you.

Bill

If I read my manual correctly, 1 hose goes to the fuel regulator

1 hose goes to the cold start injector

1 hose splits in 2 and goes to the heater control vacuum

and turbo boost indicator

1 hose goes to the master brake cylinder

[billbranch]

If I read my manual correctly, 1 hose goes to the fuel regulator

1 hose goes to the cold start injector

1 hose splits in 2 and goes to the heater control vacuum

and turbo boost indicator

1 hose goes to the master brake cylinder

[billbranch]

I still haven't found where the nipple is snapped off, but now I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator, especially given its location and ease of access.

All of that notwithstanding, I did some adjustments. Someone had screwed the throttle position microswitch in to raise the idle, and the potentiometer at closed throttle was reading 1.4 volts. If you've adjusted one and know how important that reading is, you'll understand how much better the car runs now.

The WA is freed up and needs to be adjusted.

As an aside, and as a sad, sad commentary on the butchery performed on these cars, the car had been advertised as having a rebuilt engine, and, yes, indeed, there was a receipt for seven thousand dollars or something like that to rebuild the engine. I was quite disappointed to say the least when I saw silicone gaskets everywhere. Even more ironic, I think, was that the owner was told that "a tank of bad gas" blew the engine and turbo. Naturally, even stupider, was that the owner believed it.

Bill

[Guest broke]

I still haven't found where the nipple is snapped off, but now I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator, especially given its location and ease of access.

All of that notwithstanding, I did some adjustments. Someone had screwed the throttle position microswitch in to raise the idle, and the potentiometer at closed throttle was reading 1.4 volts. If you've adjusted one and know how important that reading is, you'll understand how much better the car runs now.

The WA is freed up and needs to be adjusted.

As an aside, and as a sad, sad commentary on the butchery performed on these cars, the car had been advertised as having a rebuilt engine, and, yes, indeed, there was a receipt for seven thousand dollars or something like that to rebuild the engine. I was quite disappointed to say the least when I saw silicone gaskets everywhere. Even more ironic, I think, was that the owner was told that "a tank of bad gas" blew the engine and turbo. Naturally, even stupider, was that the owner believed it.

Bill

On my car I have a vacuum hose nipple on the throttle body which leads nowhere. I simply blocked it off and the car runs fine

[Guest the505inme]

Buying a used car is always an adventure, esp when buying something lke a 505 turbo. It's a shame really since most gaskets are still available new, and are not that expencive. But hey, as long as the gut are good, right?

Bad gas blowing an engine? WHat if they did get bad gas, and at the same time the waste gate was frozen shut, and the over boost sensor and knock sensor were both non op or disconnected. That's the recipe for a perfect storm. Take a few big inclines at full throttle in summer heat and good chance you'll blow something, if not everything.

I still haven't found where the nipple is snapped off, but now I'm thinking fuel pressure regulator, especially given its location and ease of access.

All of that notwithstanding, I did some adjustments. Someone had screwed the throttle position microswitch in to raise the idle, and the potentiometer at closed throttle was reading 1.4 volts. If you've adjusted one and know how important that reading is, you'll understand how much better the car runs now.

The WA is freed up and needs to be adjusted.

As an aside, and as a sad, sad commentary on the butchery performed on these cars, the car had been advertised as having a rebuilt engine, and, yes, indeed, there was a receipt for seven thousand dollars or something like that to rebuild the engine. I was quite disappointed to say the least when I saw silicone gaskets everywhere. Even more ironic, I think, was that the owner was told that "a tank of bad gas" blew the engine and turbo. Naturally, even stupider, was that the owner believed it.

Bill

[billbranch]

Buying a used car is always an adventure, esp when buying something lke a 505 turbo. It's a shame really since most gaskets are still available new, and are not that expencive. But hey, as long as the gut are good, right?

Bad gas blowing an engine? WHat if they did get bad gas, and at the same time the waste gate was frozen shut, and the over boost sensor and knock sensor were both non op or disconnected. That's the recipe for a perfect storm. Take a few big inclines at full throttle in summer heat and good chance you'll blow something, if not everything.

OK, we've speculated on the adventure, particularly this one which I bought on eBay, advertised in "superb condition" and touted with a new engine which had only 40,000+ miles on it.

I checked the repair slips: it seems he had another head gasket done at 102K miles with 19K on the rebuild.

The car had been driven since April 2005 until I unfortunately bought it in early June 2006 a grand total of 800 miles. If anyone tells me the car was not misrepresented on eBay...

Did the owner know something was wrong with the car? Only no if he was so stupid as to not see the boost gauge not working, or overboost and not feel the engine cut out.

I attempted to drive the car 50 miles this AM for a safety sticker. The car ran OK 65-70 mph, a couple of misses. I turned onto a two-lane blacktop, and the car started sputtering. I had it flatbedded to its destination.

Now, I'll not only get the safety sticker, but a compression test and other diagnostics as well.

See:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[Guest the505inme]

Mine lasted around 20k after the top end was poorly re done, seems to be a magic number.

I hope your car turns out to need nothing more than lots of fine tuning. Good luck!

OK, we've speculated on the adventure, particularly this one which I bought on eBay, advertised in "superb condition" and touted with a new engine which had only 40,000+ miles on it.

I checked the repair slips: it seems he had another head gasket done at 102K miles with 19K on the rebuild.

The car had been driven since April 2005 until I unfortunately bought it in early June 2006 a grand total of 800 miles. If anyone tells me the car was not misrepresented on eBay...

Did the owner know something was wrong with the car? Only no if he was so stupid as to not see the boost gauge not working, or overboost and not feel the engine cut out.

I attempted to drive the car 50 miles this AM for a safety sticker. The car ran OK 65-70 mph, a couple of misses. I turned onto a two-lane blacktop, and the car started sputtering. I had it flatbedded to its destination.

Now, I'll not only get the safety sticker, but a compression test and other diagnostics as well.

See:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...TRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[billbranch]

Mine lasted around 20k after the top end was poorly re done, seems to be a magic number.

I hope your car turns out to need nothing more than lots of fine tuning. Good luck!

Hold on to your hats, kiddies, what good news we found today!

Saturday the car was running on two cylinders and I had it towed (AAA).

My long-time friend and mechanic (and that combo doesn't mean he works for nothing) Roger and I started out today with a compression test: 150 straight across the head.

We changed plugs and wires, still disconnecting #1 and #2 cylinders had no effect on the engine.

The distributor cap was cracked, and the wrong rotor had been hammered into place.

We checked out to be sure the cat wasn't plugged.

Eventually we got to the test light on the #1 cylinder injector: no voltage to light; followed by applying voltage to the injector and it pulsated. We traced the problem to a large wire connector at the firewall which at some time apparently had been disconnected to disassemble the engine (the head gasket job after the rebuild, we figure) and which subsequently had not been completely snapped back together! It was "finger-loose."

It's no wonder the PO had spend money having compression checks, fuel filters changed, all sorts of diagnostic work done, and gallons of fuel system cleaners dumped into the tank: he had an intermitttent connection to the #1 and #2 cylinder injectors, and he never knew when the car would crap out.

We also, when reconnecting the exhaust, lowered it so it wasn't resonating against the chassis.

The car runs very well, but, still, issues remain on a car which was sold as in "fantastic" and "superb" shape. They include, but are not necessarily limited to, the following:

The AC needs a charge. For some reason, the system is empty, but the compressor was kicking on.

The fog lamps do not work.

The low tone horn does not work, needs new.

The rear door locks do not operate with the central locking system.

The HVAC fan works only on intermediate speeds: needs new control, I think.

The car needs new lower ball joints. Grease seals are perished.

The car needs new outer tie-rod ends. Grease seals are perished.

The car needs steering rack boots. Both are perished.

The car needs at least one front wheel bearing.

The car needs four (4) new tires: dry rot!

The (front) brake rotors need turning.

The power steering rack leaks.

The A/T cooling lines leak.

The LR wheel hub shows wetness leaking through, and I hope it's a brake cylinder, not an axle seal.

The floor has been used as jacking points in at least four locations and needs to be straightened.

Aside from the above and the fact that the WG actuator needs to be adjusted, the car runs pretty smoothly.

The transmission seems very good, apart from the fact that it was three (3) quarts low when the car was delivered. Some people consider that "well-maintained." I do not.

Aside from the obvious safety concerns enumerated above, the throttle body needs to be adjusted: the idle right now is at 730, because I backed the set screw on the microswitch off after someone had used it to increase the idle.

This car was sold to me as in "fantastic" condition. I shall not tell you what it's cost me so far, but watch out on eBay for dishonest people.

And check out my soon-to-be-listed '91 SW8 with the new engine, excellent tranny, very sound body, and many, many new parts. This engine has 40,000 miles on it, and everything on the car works, except there's a vibration. Unlike the PO of my new car and unlike the jackass who sold me my old one, I am honest.

[august]

that's such a load of crap, it sucks to see your having such bad luck bill.

I've checked out 505's as well which claimed "rebuilt engine's". Then one look at the oil pan, and there's orange permatex RTV seeping out all over the place. yeah thanks but no thanks.

i guess in my case its hard to blame the non mechnical owner. they think the engine is rebuilt, and dont know the difference between a dealer and gas station rebuild.

[billbranch]

that's such a load of crap, it sucks to see your having such bad luck bill.

I've checked out 505's as well which claimed "rebuilt engine's". Then one look at the oil pan, and there's orange permatex RTV seeping out all over the place. yeah thanks but no thanks.

i guess in my case its hard to blame the non mechnical owner. they think the engine is rebuilt, and dont know the difference between a dealer and gas station rebuild.

August,

Thanks for the kind words. I suspect those of us in Peugeot fraternity are brothers in that we've all seen such treachery committed to our cars, and of course I mean by trained apes with wrenches and of course I also mean by owners who want to trick out their Peugeots.

I say, "Hey, you, Bozo, do it to a Toyota."

I had a response from the seller today, and in case you didn't know (I didn't), Tennessee is a state in which one must be a licensed auctioneer to sell on eBay. I think that gives me some leverage, but, also, she said all of the faults I pointed out were too many to digest at once.

Oh, and BTW, I opened up one of the fog lamps and discovered why it isn't working. I thought those of you with a sense of humor might enjoy it.

Bill

[august]

Oh, and BTW, I opened up one of the fog lamps and discovered why it isn't working. I thought those of you with a sense of humor might enjoy it.

Bill

ooooh my.. that's painful to see, as i'm sure you know, 89 oem fog lights are no easy task to find.

[billbranch]

ooooh my.. that's painful to see, as i'm sure you know, 89 oem fog lights are no easy task to find.

One can buy the reflector and lens from WH for a small yet fair sum of money.

But, now, in a lighter and happier vein:

I am driving the new wagon on a daily basis. I got the throttle plate pot set up, and the car runs great, uses no! oil. Upon closer scrutiny, no water! either. The AC has been swapped over to 134a, works great I can see my breath. Thank God I can't smell it. I've installed a new set of some mid-price Dunlop which are OK in the wet. The boost is set so low, max 4-5 lbs, but I'll have it increased. I believe the next and best upgrade is the hysterese spring in the ZF.

I do have a vibration in the tires and wheels which will be fixed soon, and I found a pair of front brake rotors OEM for <$100 the set. Eat your heart out.

The more I drive the car, the more I like it.

I remember sitting in a Merc SUV in a mirror-surrounded showroom and saying, "How do I look?"

The only answer flashing through my head said, "Ridiculous!"

[Guest the505inme]

One can buy the reflector and lens from WH for a small yet fair sum of money.

But, now, in a lighter and happier vein:

I am driving the new wagon on a daily basis. I got the throttle plate pot set up, and the car runs great, uses no! oil. Upon closer scrutiny, no water! either. The AC has been swapped over to 134a, works great I can see my breath. Thank God I can't smell it. I've installed a new set of some mid-price Dunlop which are OK in the wet. The boost is set so low, max 4-5 lbs, but I'll have it increased. I believe the next and best upgrade is the hysterese spring in the ZF.

I do have a vibration in the tires and wheels which will be fixed soon, and I found a pair of front brake rotors OEM for <$100 the set. Eat your heart out.

The more I drive the car, the more I like it.

I remember sitting in a Merc SUV in a mirror-surrounded showroom and saying, "How do I look?"

The only answer flashing through my head said, "Ridiculous!"

I'm glad it worked out for you in the end! It was touch and go for a while....

BTW I installed the hysterese spring into my N9TE sedan's ZF, and it's great! More zip for the on ramps, and slightly later upshifts too!

Of course, the next morning it decided to stay in 1st gear for a bit, but it's been fine for the past 3 weeks now.

ps. be sure the people who install the spring don't over fill the tranny! They did to mine, and the extra fluid came out the back vent and on to the cat convertor for a nice little smoke show. Not cool!