Chris Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Hey guys. I have an 89 turbowagon. Can I simply plug in the ECU from an 88 sedan for that extra power? Must be an old thread for this somewhere. thanks C Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 I don't see why not, all wiring/components are the same except for the ignition ecu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Hi Chris, Do you know if your car had the electronic boost control - and do you know what it's boosting too? Do you also know if it has the black NTC temp sensor? Those are the only two things I can think of that could cause issues. N9Txx boost to 12 psi so knowing what yours is hitting would give you an idea of the change. How's the wagon running after its long barn sleep? Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Thanks Rab. Don't know about black NTC sensor, 89 should have boost contoller* Long story now. 89 N9TEA wagon has several mild performance mods. 80K on the 2001 re-build: Arais custom forged pistons, balanced con rods, 804 injectors, 2.5" free-flow cat back exhaust, K & N cone air filter. (Apparently now considered to be a negative?), tapered, (ala Jim Lill), throtle plate. * in-line manual boost control @ 15 psi, boost gauge & A/F meter on dash, NGK B8H,(I think) colder plugs. etc. Car started right up & idled after 7 years in the barn. I got a used radiator from Brian Holm and popped that in. Swapped in the ECU from 88 sedan and took her out. Running pretty strong and hitting 15 psi before WG/controller dump. Mobil 1 nice clean honey color, coolant in bottle pale green & clean-no bubbles. Exhaust clean & dry. External fuel pump whining a bit, maybe water in the filter? So today, I began the wire & ground R&R / cleaning. I rigged up a starter relay, now starts first click. Cleaned & spliced new connectors on various top front sensors that were old, cracked & dirty. My reward for this work was a very rich & rough start-up, accompanied by a sort of nasty loud grinding sound from engine bay. I have never heard this before. It's not real deep but I can't locate the source. Seems to come from the valve cover area but when I take off the filler cap it sounds good in there. Rich condition went away as I guess the computer re-booted the sensors.That noise is a problem, though. Any thoughts? thanks Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted October 18, 2014 Report Share Posted October 18, 2014 Rich condition could be a bad ntc sensor connection or unhappy air meter. How's the afr under full throttle? This has a direct correlation to start up fuel before the o2 sensor starts working. I had the same grinding/knocking noise, turned out my cam chain tensioner came loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Loose cam chain tensioner sounds about right after a 15 psi red line run. How do I fix that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Well first pull off the valve cover and take a look to see if shes loose, it's down near the balancer. If it is loose the rad, water pump, balancer, power steering/alternator brackets, and entire front cover need to be pulled to get at it. After that rest assured the tensioner will spite you by falling in the oil pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Thanks Keebs. When would you like to get started on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Nope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 I'd pull off the belts to remove all the ancilliaries from rotating with the engine, then start it briefly to see if it still makes the sound. I'd suspect alternator bearings sitting for 7 years or even the water pump bearings (AC compressor?) before the tensioner after a WOT redline run... At least that's what I'd REALLY be hoping for at least... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Good suggestions Rabin. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 OK. good suggestions by Keebs & Rabin. I took off the belts, (good thing as they are both badly cracked), so nothing is turning. I realised that it has been nearly 10 years since this was my DD and I am slowly getting back into the maintainence groove here. Car started rough & rich but NO grinding noise. I shut it off and re - crimped the contacts that I renewed yesterday. Ran better but NOISE is back! sound is coming from rear of engine and esp. loud from under the car. Suddenly, a sensor clicks, noise STOPS, and engine settles into nice smooth idle @ 900 rpm. WTH???. It must be a heat shield vibrating when rough running? Feedback please thanks guys Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Starter not disengaging, or not disengaging smoothly or fast enough? Could be something interfering with the flex plate or torque converter? I'm stumped at what sensor could have clicked to stop it which is why I thought of the starter - click could the sound of the solenoid finally retracting, but that would also mean the starter is staying engaged. While the belts are off I'd check all the pulleys by hand to make sure all are feeling ok. I like to wrap a string around them and pull it like a mower to see how well they spin and to see if they make any noise. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Cold start switch cutting off? Could be the starter, I guess. I did install a relay yesterday and now it cranks 1st try. I'll pull the relay & try it back the stock way, as the noise is coincidental with the relay install thanks CC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 Oh - If your relay is being back fed power through the cold start, or from somewhere else the starter would stay engaged. I would diagnose first as it likely needs the relay, so correcting how it engages is likely the best course of action. Should be easy to see if it's the starter still running at least. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 19, 2014 Report Share Posted October 19, 2014 You also might want to unplug the cold start injector - I wonder if its running when it shouldn't be as well which would explain the rich rough running.... Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 20, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keebs Posted October 20, 2014 Report Share Posted October 20, 2014 If it's just the starter sticking I'd call that a lucky break since they're fairly cheap and easy to replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 You would think that after 20 years and at least 9 Peugeots, I would, if not have a fondness for quirky issues, at least be used to them. That 10 years I took off has taken it's toll. I am sure that the old obsession is back and I will drive this thing again! (as a classic) Anyway, all is well when I run the starter straight up but it may not always go on the first try. What is with the relay set-up that it makes it keep running? I now have 2 new V belts, (needed), and I am also now familiar with the torture of the PS pump bolt system. I stupidly backed that far lower one all the way out and the big spacer fell out. I think the whole thing may have to come out to get that back in. Running without it for now. Engine likes clean connectors so I will do more of those. Exhaust smells bad as I burn off very old gas while adding fresh premium to thin it out. Top rad hose looks nice but leaks a bit at the tank connection, try a different clamp. Brakes work but feel kind of "dry" after sitting so long. Any suggestions on that? What else might need attention? thanks all for wisdom & patience CC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bean Posted October 21, 2014 Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 I would have recommended draining the fuel rather than trying to burn through it. You're running it through your entire fuel system... At the very least I'd dose it with injector cleaner, and change the filter after that tank is gone. Spacer - and chance a really good magnetic pick up tool can help hold it in place while you feed the bolt through? Btw - not sure if you meant 10 year break still didn't get rid of the bug, or if the 10 year break just lowered your tolerance for stuff noy working. For sitting 7 years in a barn it's doing exceptionally good. Rabin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted October 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2014 Guess some addictions have no expiration date thanks for the help CC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.